Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2008 - 12:11pm PT
|
Damn, I thought everybody knew aliens only hold falls in temps above 50 degrees and below 100. I bought the ones where the dimple disappears when the temperature is safe for climbing.
|
|
JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2008 - 12:21pm PT
|
Do the micro camalots not replace aliens?
|
|
Echo
Trad climber
San Diego, CA.
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2008 - 01:31pm PT
|
Just got word last night that a buddy had a blue fail after "catching" a 4 foot fall in jtree this weekend. He fell, the cam exploded and he kept goin till a stopper got him. Will post more details as they come in.
Cheers,
Jonas
|
|
hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2008 - 01:51pm PT
|
two words that I think are striking terror into the heart of CCH: master cams.
I think they will be the coup de grace to CCH
|
|
flamer
Trad climber
denver
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2008 - 07:39pm PT
|
I encourage everyone to go look at the posted pic.
This appears to be a broken trigger wire only....
I'd also like to hear more about the blue alien that supposedly failed...like what kind of fall force was placed on it?
josh
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2008 - 07:46pm PT
|
I just looked at the OP's link and they said:
"...he has a badly sprained ankle and broken toe, and we had a wretched descent as we bailed."
This was from a fall on the fourth pitch of selaginella.
Wow, so that's what was going on up there. I was watching them for hours after dark thrashing around up there. I was just waiting for them to start calling us.
Good for you, for getting yourselves down.
We had just finished an earlier SAR to the left of them that day.
|
|
Forest
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2008 - 07:50pm PT
|
No pictures visible in the thread. Anyone know where one is?
|
|
davidji
Social climber
CA
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2008 - 07:56pm PT
|
I logged in to rockclimbing.com (for the first time in ages) to ask Amy about it, including the missing pics.
|
|
Redwreck
Social climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2008 - 07:59pm PT
|
There's an obscure link to a .jpg file at the bottom one of the later posts by Amy. And it definitely looks like a busted trigger wire.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2008 - 08:02pm PT
|
OK this it. Definitely a trigger wire failure.
|
|
davidji
Social climber
CA
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2008 - 08:06pm PT
|
I see it.
Looks like it inverted from being undercammed, or maybe in an expanding placement. One of my big criticisms of aliens is the fact that doing that breaks the cam (the trigger wire). I don't know whether it was originally placed well or not, but is sure wasn't in the right place when it inverted.
I had a partner do that to an Alien under bodyweight (or 2x bodyweight, since he was being lowered off it).
|
|
martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2008 - 08:13pm PT
|
What is the response of cch? I have a bunch of old aliens with no failures, but I never took much of a fall on them. Seems that this thread could put them out of the game. Are they being responsive?
|
|
davidji
Social climber
CA
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2008 - 08:15pm PT
|
This one isn't CCH's fault. Except for designing a cam that breaks the trigger wires when you invert it. And I think we're willing to overlook that as a tradeoff for the narrow head width.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2008 - 08:19pm PT
|
yeah davidji is correct.
Looked to me they were off route at one point also?
Not really sure as I looked rather quickly and had to run off to that earlier incident which turned out rather real bad.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2008 - 08:22pm PT
|
David, Werner, you guys really gonna still use those things?
 Me, I'm too young, too much life ahead of me...
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2008 - 08:26pm PT
|
Jay
I'll use anything that sticks in the rock. What me worry? Groan ....
Hell, those aliens make some of those long scary ass run-outs back when we had nothing that would work look good.
|
|
tooth
Mountain climber
B.C.
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2008 - 08:27pm PT
|
I inverted a couple red aliens on some expanding flakes and ripped their trigger wires out too.
Used some ortho wire and pliers (ask your local orthodontist for his $70 pliers and the wire from some kid's smile) and re-wired them, better than new! Each lobe functions individually now, like the newer aliens, unlike the old ones in that picture than are connected with a cable and can rotate while on your rack and slow your roll...
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2008 - 08:31pm PT
|
Steel spring wire my friend.
You can pick it up online or at a real hardware store.
$70 pliers, you got ripped off.
|
|
davidji
Social climber
CA
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2008 - 08:36pm PT
|
Jay, I still plan to use mine. I've only got 2 though.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!