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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 19, 2007 - 02:46pm PT
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Okay, before I become a bother I wanted to host a "name the route" contest. After this I promise to disappear for a while. This one will be quite difficult, so I will start with a few extra clues.
1. It is an all-aid route and has not been done free. The aid is sketchy.
2. First ascent was in the '70's. Although three people are listed, only two actually went on the route.
3. Top belay was in slings from a single, 1/4" button-head. Nothing else. Makes me cringe to think about it now!
4. It is in the Valley between Reed's and the Column. Yes, I know that is a lot of territory, but I just cut your search in half.
5. Several nice, hard free routes lies within 50' of this route.
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hobo
climber
PDX
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Dec 19, 2007 - 02:55pm PT
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Is it on Chapel wall?
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2007 - 02:58pm PT
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Sorry, Chapel Wall is on the wrong side of the Valley. Remember, between Reed's and the Column.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 04:53pm PT
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Electric Ladyland.
[Edit: crummy guess - the Electric Ladyland corner is much bigger than that (at least in the upper part)]
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2007 - 05:06pm PT
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The corner look right for EL but that route is rather longer than the one I am looking for. Also, EL has some, not much but some, free climbing. This route has nary a move from base to top.
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 19, 2007 - 07:17pm PT
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I know where it is: piss easy man.
It is in the Valley between Reed's and the Column.
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randomtask
climber
North fork, CA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 07:21pm PT
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That's the route i got the FFA of. Forget the name though.
-JR
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 07:24pm PT
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Sorry Werner.
Piss easy, aka the West Face of Medlicott, has been freed at a moderate grade, and is in Tuolumne. ;)
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2007 - 08:08pm PT
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Okay, time to narrow it down a tad.
It is between the Nose and The Edg of Night.
It has been rated A4 (in print) but the FA party did not say that.
And yes, Blinny you are correct in being able to ID it and the climber. And yes, it did have a single mank bolt. And yes, a fixed rope hung (through winter as I recall) for quite a while before it was removed. You see, there is more to do above this line to make it complete!
EDIT: By the way, Blinny, check out the recent Name that climber thread started by me... I believe you will enjoy it. For that matter you MUST visit your birthday thread!
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Wonder
climber
WA
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Dec 20, 2007 - 12:19am PT
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bump - this ain't over yet.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 20, 2007 - 05:09am PT
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Is it in the guidebook (Meyers, 1982)? That would put it between p.67 and 99, and I don't see it. (no A4 RFCs on short climbs)
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Dec 20, 2007 - 08:57am PT
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On the West Face of Lower Brother?
Can't think of the name.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Dec 20, 2007 - 08:57am PT
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Creamatorium.
Ken
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2007 - 10:54am PT
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Creamatorium it is! Nice work Chicken Skinner!
In most of the recent guides the line is shown as a single-pitch A4 crack with bolts at the top but no name. It is located lust left of Moratorium and just right of End Game. That person on the lead is Blinny (Mark Blanchard.) We had originally planned to continue the line up to Abazaba but daylight (or was it nerves?) stopped us short. We rapped of a single fixed line from a single 1/4" with plans to return soon. "Soon" turned into weeks and then months with Mark eventually jugging the line so he could retrieve his Choiunard rope (yes, at one time there were such things.)
So, Chicken Skinner, if you would like a vintage Yosemite postcard please drop me an e-mail with your address and I will get one out to you.
I'll dig some more during Xmas and see if I can find more obscurity to challenge the lot of you with.
Merry Christmas!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 20, 2007 - 07:09pm PT
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Simon,
Thanks for the contest and the cool clues. I should have known better and checked the 1996 guidebook.... (I checked only 1982 and 1987, figuring there would be fewer possibilities to look at!) I see the anchor bolts in the 1987 topo now.
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Dec 20, 2007 - 07:17pm PT
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Right, I was going through the 1987 last night and saw the
1-pitch A4 variation to Abbazaba, but no name or FA info.
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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
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