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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Dec 17, 2007 - 10:05pm PT
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I have an extra minitraxion for sale. Barely used. $45
Sold
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 17, 2007 - 10:08pm PT
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check email, Jay,
Jay
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tokyo bill
Social climber
tokyo
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Dec 17, 2007 - 10:20pm PT
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Ushba basic ascender and backup knots for me.
http://www.libertymountain.com/catalog.php?type=product&id=21776
No one else seems to be using this - is there something I should know?
Edited to add: the Ushba is just clipped to my belay loop. Seems to feed, orient and catch just fine with a nalgene weighting the rope at the bottom.
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Dec 18, 2007 - 12:00pm PT
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Wasn't there an upside down fall with a soloist on Braille Book?
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CF
climber
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Dec 18, 2007 - 12:12pm PT
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I have used this a lot, notice the plastic cross piece on the upper biner, this prevents it from cross loading.
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Phantom Fugitive
Trad climber
Misery
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Dec 18, 2007 - 12:31pm PT
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Once, some friends were heading out to climb "Fine Jade" in Castleton.
I asked if they minded a third. They shrugged(not too psyched).
So I came up with an alternative- the second dragged a line and fixed it every pitch, and I followed on my cinch, freeclimbing. I hung a nalgene at the end to keep it from blowing around and to aid in feeding.
One trick I do is drape the rope over my thigh to "encourage" the feeding along.
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Dec 18, 2007 - 12:32pm PT
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Petzl rescuecender or microcender work the best, slide feely going up the rope, lock off immediatly when direction is reversed. Yates rocker works well, just takes a little further of a clean fall before it engages. The soloist doesn't feed well at all and is a PITA for TR soloing. I can't believe anyone suggesting its use for TRing has actually used it for this purpose. As with anything you end up using, backup knots are your friend.
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Dropline
Mountain climber
Somewhere Up There
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Dec 18, 2007 - 12:51pm PT
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Another vote for the Petzl Microcender. I don't use a backup device, prusik, or backup knots.
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Sherri
climber
WA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 12:56pm PT
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This summer I started using the "Singing Rock Locker"(I think it's the old Yates/Troll Rocker being sold under new name/mfr).
http://www.patrollersupply.com/equipment/item_142.asp
After researching the pros and cons of the devices/systems out there, I went with this one because 1)it allows one to downclimb and 2)it doesn't have teeth. Also, you can leave the device on the rope while you rap with a gri gri attached above it(holding onto it while rapping keeps it from locking), so you can quickly run laps.
I use mine with a chest harness, as recommended by mfr., but I know that some folks attach it directly to their belay loop. The harness initially seemed like a hassle, but now that I've climbed with it I can see that it does keep the Locker in the ideal position for a quick catch.
I do tie back-up knots in the rope beneath me as I climb(especially above ledges), and use a prussik back-up above it, but the device has always caught immediately. I'm sold.
If you want to dig up more info on this device, google it under the old name.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Dec 18, 2007 - 01:52pm PT
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GB asked:
""Using a dremel or something to lop off the cam's lockout post"
I don't have mine in front of me but I can imagine what you mean.
What is the advantage to this?""
If you are groveling around crawling into pod or wide section, or really hugging the rock, it's possible (not likely, but possible) to brush the red plastic thumb lever on the cam against the rock (say if it were pinned between your body and the rock) and if it gets pushed to the fully wide open position, it will lock out on it's own, leaving you unbelayed.
You would only have to grind it a bit, so it was low enough not to engage the lockout slot on the frame. If I were using a single traxion, I would for sure do this mod. Since I run doubles, I haven't done it...yet.
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GB
Trad climber
Truckee/ Flagstaff
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2007 - 02:21pm PT
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elcap-Okay that makes sense. A good thing to consider.
CF - where did you find the biner with the plastic cross piece? (assuming they came together) This seems like the setup I may switch to since I already have the one mini trax. Although the microcender looks good too.
Thanks everyone for the options!
I have a lot to look into now.
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 18, 2007 - 02:22pm PT
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That's Kauk in the photo with the two mini-traxions and the red shirt.
I use just one mini-traxion cause I'm dumb ......
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Dec 18, 2007 - 02:40pm PT
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I would also add, wrt to mini-traxion...
You see in the pic Kauk has some psuedo chest harness rig going on. This is mainly to keep the mini-trax upright so it engages the rope immediately. If it's hanging down, you have a few inches of slack in the system. What I do is just take a loop of shock cord, girth it through the clip-in hole on the top mini-trax, and then wear it over my shoulder bandolier style. Accomplishes the same thing and you can rig it with just a tiny bit of tension so it doesn't flop around if you're hunched over.
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CF
climber
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Dec 18, 2007 - 02:48pm PT
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GB
that is a dmm that i got in the valley mtn shop
werner, good eyes!
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Andy D
Trad climber
Colorado
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Dec 18, 2007 - 06:24pm PT
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In response to elcapinyoazz
In the Kauk setup you describe with the chest harness to hold the minitraxion upright, shurely a Croll would be better as it has the built-in clip-in point as demonstrated in the photo by Indianclimber?
Andy
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Dec 18, 2007 - 06:29pm PT
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Where does one order the Petzel Chest Harness on the hot babe?
Juan
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tokyo bill
Social climber
tokyo
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Dec 18, 2007 - 11:29pm PT
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In reply to khanom:
Thanks a lot for the feedback. I haven't experienced a failure to lock up with the Ushba yet. Hope I never do.
(In truth, I'm a weenie, and tend not to TR solo anything I don't already have wired. I just use it to run laps when I don't have a partner or need to be back in town quickly. I also use backup knots on a second strand, as noted.)
Nonetheless, I'm keeping an eye on this thread, and may switch over to another system, if I can spot something that's not too complex for my few remaining brain cells. I'd be interested to hear if you find something that suits you.
Bill
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Kevster
Trad climber
Evergreen, CO
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Dec 19, 2007 - 12:06am PT
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I second the shock cord to hold the Minitrax up. Climb hundreds of pitches a year with that setup. I double up on the Mini's on real hard pitches, otherwise I just use one Mini with one or 2 backup knots per ropelength that I leave in the rope and do not attach to me.
I used to think teeth were bad too, but the truth is I would rather thrash my sheath than pinch the core. Teeth make sure you stop...which is a good thing.
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