TR: Fools in the Wide, Episode IV

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Elcapinyoazz

Social climber

Camp 4, Site 10

Topic Author's Original Post - May 24, 2007 - 12:45pm PT

Last Sunday, while hardmen were doing Free Rider in a day, I was lounging around Camp4, working on my second or third one of these:

Then some youngsters from Colorado showed me a new offwidth roof problem they'd found, just up the hill from Camp 4. They had been thwarted and the problem remained undone. It looked nice:

And was really easy to find. If you know where this nice fingercrack is:

It's just around the right side, about 20 feet away. After donning the long pants, hightops, and taping down the pant leg, we gave it several attempts, facing both ways. We tried stemming it, stacking it, bat hanging it, and even tried cursing it into submission. Finally, I'd found a likely sequence...but still failed.

So I reckoned I needed another one of these:

Ahhh! That hits the spot. Cool, refreshing, and makes me forget that I feel like I've done 400 sit ups. As the daylight faded to dusk, red faced and with much cursing, I sent. But alas, there was no send train rolling, the 2nd ascent would have to wait.

A couple of days later, I returned with two keen Dutch in tow, and camera in hand. They tried many sequences. They got bouted. Then it came together. Start at the chockstone/constriction with a hand and fist jam, kick your feet in:

Work those feet high:

Shuffle to the edge:

Do a giant sit up while dropping one leg out of the crack:

Grovel, struggle, curse:

And top out (or flop out?)

Recreational Struggling, V-Circus Trick or 5.awkward.

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, Ca.

May 24, 2007 - 12:56pm PT

Nice! Good to see you're enjoying yourself there...somebody's gotta do it.

Jay Wood

Trad climber

Fairfax, CA

May 24, 2007 - 01:00pm PT

Maybe the key is to tape the side of your face.

My knees are bleeding from looking at those pics

Jay Wood

Trad climber

Fairfax, CA

May 24, 2007 - 01:01pm PT

Maybe the key is to tape the side of your face.

My knees are bleeding from looking at those pics

G_Gnome

Trad climber

Knob Central

May 24, 2007 - 01:48pm PT

Man, I would rather fall off Midnight Lightning 50 more times than torture myself on that kind of sh!t.

Jaybro

Social climber

The West

May 24, 2007 - 02:34pm PT

Niice work, yoazz! What a find!
Looks like a mandatory fieldtrip, soon as 510OW is regrooved and we pick up some mild injectables.

Face tape is for sissies, unless you already cut yourself shaving.

Seriouslly, I can't wait.