Disconnect between climbing media and regular climbers?

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Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 23, 2007 - 04:09pm PT
Do you think there is one?

Not to belabor any examples, but it seems that the urge to publish video of Rad Ascents overrides other consideration, such as access.

Of course, we all know about delicate arch.

But chris sharma also climbed Witness the Fitness, and the video was shot and sold, and the climb is on private property with no legal access.

I was just thinking about this because I just came across a video on a climbing media website of a pro climber climbing at one of the Local Steep Rad Spots. this place has been climbed for years, yet always managed to stay largely out of the press. the vid didn't identify the place, but there's no doubt where it is.

As I understand it, the owner of the property would allow climbing there so long as there are no published topos or directions. So maybe a Rad Vid isn't necessary?

What do you think? Should we blame the biased media? Is harm being done?
hossjulia

Trad climber
Eastside
Apr 23, 2007 - 04:16pm PT
How about an all around disconnect between the media in general and regular folks. It's all money driven................
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Apr 23, 2007 - 04:32pm PT
I'm with hoss on this. What he/she (sorry, hoss) said ^^^^^
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Apr 23, 2007 - 04:35pm PT
If all of the cool kids at the gym spend the winter there ticking their hardest sends ever, the mags and vids etc. are probably not inviting anyone who climbs hard enough to do the warm ups there and is local enough to want to bother.

Although I totally agree that some climbs are better off not being sold.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2007 - 04:35pm PT
well, yeah. but climbing is still a relatively small activity.

Don't you think that there would be some sensitivity to not screwing it up for the rest of us?
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Apr 23, 2007 - 05:02pm PT
Was there ever a connect?


What is a "regular climber?"
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Apr 23, 2007 - 05:07pm PT
Unfortunately, I don't think they care, caughtinside. It sucks, I agree, but they just want their 'extreme vids'. I guess that's why 'we' should keep our own secret crags just that way...a secret. But sometimes it's cool to share a hidden gem with a select few. That place that TKingsbury keeps posting up from Montana, for example. I love the guy for sharing it with us and all, but I'd hate to see Potter and a film crew out there.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Knob Central
Apr 23, 2007 - 05:58pm PT
There are so many more people who climb than there are climbers, and those people who occasionally climb want to see the rad stuff and live vicariously, that I don't think we climbers have a chance. We see the same thing here a lot too!
MZiebell

Social climber
Prescott, AZ
Apr 23, 2007 - 06:04pm PT
I'm with Jaybro on this.

The "Climbing Media" has done much damage to climbing (and climbers) by hyping it in unrealistic and sensationalist ways. Without the climbing media we would be spared the scourge of "pro-climbers" who have contributed very little to climbing.

EDIT: By "pro-climbers" I do not include professional guides. I refer here to some of the climbers already named in this thread and their ilk.
Donny... the OHHH!- Riginal

Sport climber
the bolt belay on Delicate Arch
Apr 23, 2007 - 06:46pm PT
Get your new SONY "Delicate Arch" headphones today! Supplies are limited.

caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2007 - 06:52pm PT
Advertisers? Sponsors?
James

climber
A tent in the redwoods
Apr 23, 2007 - 07:50pm PT
There's been a few publications about the "local steep rad place that no one is supposed to talk about" that have been published in the past few years, notably a local hardman on Tower of Power.

Are more climbers gonna show up? Maybe. Is the access gonna be harmed? Probably not. The French National Climbing Team flew out there a few years ago. The crag isn't that popular. Weekdays it's empty. If it can withstand the onslaught of eighties sport climbing then it can handle a relatively obscure video of a young woman climbing a really hard extremely unaesthetic route.

Publicizing information about an area does not bring the flood. It's the cleared paths, better parking, and other user friendly renovations that brings the swarms.

Besides, I like seeing cute girls climb hard.
James

climber
A tent in the redwoods
Apr 23, 2007 - 07:59pm PT
Don't talk too loud or some hardmen will punch you in the face and spit Beechnut in your eye.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2007 - 07:59pm PT
James, I see what you're saying. My concern isn't about the hordes flooding in. I think the nature of the crag will prevent that on it's own. And yeah, I saw that photo in the free muir article too, and thought it was poor form there.

I was mostly thinking about access to the place. If the landowner says don't publicize this crag, and then it starts popping up everywhere on the net, in mags, do you not see the problem?

I agree, chances are that the vid won't affect access there as it probably won't be seen by the owner. But why take the chance? There are plenty of places to shoot the Rad Vids that don't cause a problem.

I like seeing cute girls climb hard too. But not where it might create a future access problem.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Apr 23, 2007 - 08:17pm PT
James, I mean you no disrespect, you've dealt impossibly well with things I hope are never coming into my sphere, but, c'mon, mon;

"Publicizing information about an area does not bring the flood. It's the cleared paths, better parking, and other user friendly renovations that brings the swarms."

"cleared paths, better parking, and other user friendly renovations" come directly from publicity! Think of how many cool hip underground spots you've lost access to by saying that.

You're definately blindfolded when we go climbing and I need a rope gun.

Oh yeah, everybody likes cute girls, climbing, or whatever,BUT, Vera komorkova would kick your ass. Sincerely, I mean that in a nice way. ;)
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Apr 23, 2007 - 09:28pm PT
routes that I can do bring the hordes.


like 5.5d


bolt enough easy lines and the hordes will show.



stop teaching people to climb!!! it's the only way.

then again it means I have to climb with more of the existing rabble rousers on the tacostand. ;)
James

climber
A tent in the redwoods
Apr 23, 2007 - 10:20pm PT
Lisa Hathaway wrote an article a little while ago about a "secret" crag in Utah. No directions. No topos. Just a name "Crag X". There were tons of pictures and the article was a feature in R & I. It was a literary strip-tease. Did she treat the crag correctly? We all want to share our experiences but only so much.

Should we not provide information to anyone about anything? Ban Supertopo? It's inevitable that word will leak out and parking lots will be paved, e.g. Indian Creek. Checking the aggressiveness of development is more productive and easier than stopping the spray.

Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic
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