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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Dec 11, 2006 - 08:12pm PT
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Nice photo and related stories Jeff. I remember using the Dulfersitz method when I first started climbing. We would actualy do short overhanging free rappels!Pretty crazy. It reminds me of a term Kevin coined. The Yabositz. Yabo liked doing these ultra low sit down starts to boulder problems and Kev came up with therm Yabositz to describe the technique. Hey remember when you, Kev, Mike and I all met trolling under the Widows Tears way back when?
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2006 - 12:52am PT
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Thank YOU, Chiloe.
Don't go there, NO, a man's duaghter is not fair game...
Mark Chapman, it's been too long. Of course I remember meeting you guys lurking around the Tears. And of course I'm jealous of the great adventure you and Kevin had on the first ascent. Actually, more proud of your effort, than jealous. What a beauty! Wish we had gotten to do a few more climbs together. Guess it's good to be thankfull for the ones we had.
Dad probably knew Jim Langford, Matt, but I don't know for sure.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Dec 12, 2006 - 01:49am PT
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Jello,
Classic inspirational image and stories.
I sure hope I can be the kinda dad your dad was for my kids. My daughter Chamonix is 6, and my son Parker is 4. I got them on skiis at the age of 2, and bouldering very low stuff with dad spotting and sometimes on top rope. They enjoy all of it.
They're getting to do so much more than when I was their age, and so it should be.
Paragliding is off limits until they can prove to me they can safely drive first (late teens). Gotta have a good head on and thinking straight to fly.
Klimmer
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Dec 12, 2006 - 10:29am PT
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Well Jeff you know I'm only kidding around.
Truth be told I'm beginning to understand why the french say a woman under 30 is an egg not yet cooked (although that's not to say I agree).
But talk about 1957 style!
She's eighteen Jeff, and you probably think she's still a virgin!!
(Now just TRY to erase from your mind the image of some pimply faced frat boy violating her purity and then rushing out to describe the deed to his fellow pledges! Ain't love grand?)lol
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2006 - 10:59am PT
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Ron- It's not the pimply-faced frat boy image that bothers me. That's the proper order of things. It's actually the leering old predatory man image I don't like, for my daughter or anyone else's. Now, back to this feel-good celebration of Leave-it-to-Beaver alpine family life.
Cheers, Old Man!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Dec 12, 2006 - 11:39am PT
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I wonder if perhaps it does linger in your subconscience.
After all, you're the one that just brought BEAVER CLEAVER.
(as for being an old predator, aren't those the best kind?)
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2006 - 04:46pm PT
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Here's the Old Man, Ralph Lowe, circa 1975, when he was about the age I am, now. During WWII, when he was stationed in the Aleutians, he ran down a fox in the winter snow outside the barracks, and kept it as a pet.
Here he is keeping us all safe while standing un-anchored on a loose block:
With safety techniques wired, we were cut loose to climb on our own
Me at 14 following a new variant to the Molar Tooth on the East Ridge of the Grand that one of my brothers had just led.
Still begs the question: How did we not die?
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Ouch!
climber
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Dec 12, 2006 - 04:59pm PT
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Cool thread with nice pictures. Takes me back to black and white picture days. If you could sit down or lean back and get your feet wedged, you could make some hefty body belays.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2006 - 05:05pm PT
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True enough, Ouch, but I think Dad felt it was better to stand right at the edge of oblivion - every opportunity - to get the full effect.
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Ouch!
climber
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Dec 12, 2006 - 05:17pm PT
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Back in the 50s, a buddy made a rope twisting device. Looked something like this as I recall. He made me one about 100 feet long out of parachute shrouds. I kept it for years and used it for everything. Even roping horses and cows and some climbing. Kind of a crude drawing.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2006 - 05:43pm PT
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eKat, the truth is, I'm not yet 81*. I remember both Keds and Converse. Had to get them dirty right away, before other kids saw you wearing them.
-OldButNotStaleJello
*graduated hs in '68
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Dec 12, 2006 - 06:44pm PT
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Jeff, you never told me your dad was in the Aleutians in WWII.
Wow!
That was tough duty. Ousting the japanese diversionary force in '42 cost us over 600 men.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2006 - 08:56pm PT
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Ron- you never told me your Dad was one of the great violinists of the twentieth century until a couple of years ago. Seems we never really spoke of our fathers - too full of ourselves, maybe?
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2006 - 09:58pm PT
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eKaterina- it seems 1950 was a very good year!!!
Ouch, that device looks like a mighty fine tool...
As Dad always used to say: "Have fun, work hard and get smart." He meant in that order, too.
-JelloDad
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Dec 12, 2006 - 09:59pm PT
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Full of something no doubt...
edit; Puddle-toaster!
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N0_ONE
Social climber
Utah
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Dec 12, 2006 - 10:31pm PT
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That's insane Jeff.
Did you have many close calls at that young age with dad present?
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2006 - 10:37pm PT
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Steve- I can't remember any close calls. He always seemed to have things under control, and instilled in us the absolute need to be responsible for our own actions. When I look at those pictures, though, I still wonder...how did we not die?
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RRK
Trad climber
Talladega, Al
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Dec 12, 2006 - 10:37pm PT
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Ouch - I've made those machines many times in "scouts". That's how they made that "Goldline" stuff. Regular tech info for '50-'60 era kids. I remember how it works if you're short of cash and need a rope. Jello - you've got me by a couple of years (born in '57). Remember PF Flyers - run fast - jump high? My dad was Navy assigned to 1st MAC in the Pacific. Did Guadalcanal, Bouganville, etc. Got the stories on the video I took before he died. (if your dad's still alive then do that NOW) Badass guys beyond belief. Nothing that we can hope to achieve can even remotely approach what they accomplished. If all goes well I'll have a copy of his war diary in the next couple of weeks. If so then it goes down as the best Christmas ever.
oops - gotta go
RRK
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N0_ONE
Social climber
Utah
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Dec 12, 2006 - 10:42pm PT
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Abselutly amazing! It's not like you were climbing clean trade routes either. It was chossy limestone right?
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