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| Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 20, 2006 - 03:27pm PT
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nuked the post to get more responses hopefully...
Ok, I keep twitching on expando thoughts. so i'm starting this here thread.
Post up your tips on expando if you would.
Also, links to threads with good expando tips would be appreciated as well.
thx much!
M
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hardman
Trad climber
love the eastern sierras
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Sep 20, 2006 - 03:38pm PT
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do you mean expando flake on lucky streaks?
sounds like a fun pitch
who has pictures of this pitch? come on Tar post em up and i'll pack a fresh bowl.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2006 - 03:40pm PT
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expando aid technique
sorry
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Sep 20, 2006 - 03:48pm PT
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couple tricks we learned on SS->PO...
(these are nailing techniques for nailing routes, so don't flame me)
1. Try to use cams or cam hooks first.
2. Try to pound your fattest pin first. (obvious)
3. Clip your second aider into the upper pin you are nailing. (old duecy tip from the Long/Middendorf guide), this seems obvious but we each took a whip because we didn't do it for some reason, so go figure.
4. My partner had a cool trick. He placed a 5/8 baby angle, then slid a good size nut in behind the flake, then pulled the pin and the nut was super bomber. He had to leave the pin behind so I could clean the nut in the same way.
5. If you can feel the vibration of the flake through your aiders into your feet, then you know for sure it is expanding, tred lightly.
I haven't done any expando heads yet. I think Minerals posted some good info on it a while back.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2006 - 05:13pm PT
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thx Lambone!
ya, nailing routes is what I'm getting on.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2006 - 09:14pm PT
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bump
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Tired Trad Tales
Trad climber
southern cal
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Sep 20, 2006 - 09:32pm PT
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I suggest you wear a helmet because you often pull placements testing expando flakes. Hard to aid climb with a piton stuck in your head. These days, guys free climb expando flakes because that is easier/safer.
20 Sept 2006
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 20, 2006 - 09:32pm PT
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Why do you want to do this? Is you're life not exciting enough without this terrible danger. Your sanity must be checked.
For sanity check, you must nail very expanding flake.
Put daisy chain in top piece while driving or setting. Make sure this daisy chain is snug. Piece you are now standing on may fall out whilst driving or setting the top piece.
Do not become alarmed, ..... well maybe if you find you are flying down suddenly.
Expando ...... yikes! .... be careful my friend.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2006 - 03:03am PT
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kewl beans, thx all.
Feral Rat also gave some good insight...
"If nailing either pound one in and get it to spread out or nail lightly. Always stay clipped into multiple pieces. Also do not forget to tap in the one behind you and in front I just kept moving back and forth. Cams make expando much better."
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Sep 21, 2006 - 01:27pm PT
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beware that expando can ruin cams also.
if you put a cam in, then a pin, and that pin comes out as you place your next pin, the flake will litteraly smash your cam if that pin comes out.
This is also the case when cleaning, if you have a pin then a cam, try to clean the cam first otherwise it may be squashed.
Good news is that a squashed cam still seems to be bomber pro!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Sep 21, 2006 - 01:34pm PT
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Flakes! Whew...
Thought this was about a pot-bellied boomer spandex revival - about which all insights and inseams are regrettable. Thank god for cooler heads.
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scotty vincik
climber
up north, these days
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Sep 21, 2006 - 05:08pm PT
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The only expando you have to nail is the thin schizzle. If you can get cam hooks in, it's A1 baby. Just snug up a thin arrow or blade and leapfrog cam hooks above bomber pro. Knock in a pin often enough to slow death if you fall. You'll want time to repent. If it's real thin, place beaks as often as you can. Way better leverage than a tied off blade. Also try big BD beaks, Polish beaks, and Pika Toucans. Polish beaks are money if you can find them. If you have to stand on a pin while driving another one, cinch your helmet down tight, do what Werner says, and use the experience to learn a little about being small in a big and uncertain world. Try to have some class and go easy with the hammering. It really is the thing to do.
yee-haw,
scotty
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2006 - 05:17pm PT
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I'm only planning on hammering the sh#t out of it, not the life out of it. ;)
dunno the thin degree, but cams hooks are at the ready.
killer, more thx!
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Hootervillian
climber
the Hooterville World-Guardian
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Sep 21, 2006 - 05:19pm PT
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i'd go with a shorter, smaller diameter toob. and maybe pack'em a lil' lighter, especially in the a.m. :\
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2006 - 06:25pm PT
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that's some heavy sh#t you just posted about.
werd
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Ben Rumsen
Social climber
No Name City ( and it sure ain't pretty )
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Sep 21, 2006 - 07:05pm PT
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Hopefully small modern cams like Aliens will take the bite out of old expando flakes of the past!!! Good luck Rob!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2006 - 08:32pm PT
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i got doubles on hybrids!! except the little one, just single there.
but ya, I'm hoping so.
thx all!!!
trip report to follow on Monday
UUUUUUUUUUuuuuuuuuNNNNNNNNNNNGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2006 - 08:36pm PT
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oh, and if anyone stops by Kings Canyon, be sure to yell up the code words so I know it was a super taco...
"munge, A3 is easy"
BuAHAHAHAAHaaaa
that or "Expando!!!!!!!!!"
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| Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
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