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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 16, 2003 - 03:21am PT
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A Wayne Merry, Dick Dorworth climb, 6/71.
This one is to the right of R.C.A. We scrambled up to the 5.5 layback flake. From a belay here, you can reach the belay station above the Condor's head in one 200' pitch. Be mindful of rope drag if you do this...
Up the right facing layback corner atop blocks beneath a steep face. Spot the water streak to the left of a horizontal crack. Up this, 5.7 to a flakey corner. Note that there is a bolt protecting this part of the pitch where none existed previously (Reid/Falkenstein note "5.7 no pro", now there is). Gary lead this and missed the bolt, not expecting it. I noticed it when I put my hand next to it(!). Up and slightly left to the large white knob I recognized as the Condor's head (which Gary had slung, ole!) then off right to the belay station.
We were behind a guided party (the guide had told his client that "no one ever climbs El Condor") but our plan was to traverse across to the ledge on P2 of R.C.A. anyway. This is actually quite interesting, off left to the bolt, then up to the crack. Work this up and left, really good pro. Past the 5.8 move to this exit variation, you get to thin hands and feet on absolutely slick granite, probably no harder then 5.9. You can keep plugging gear in the crack. The crack peters out just as you get to a horizontal weakness, and a minor ledge for you feet. Work across left, now traversing horizontally. Tri-cams, and regular cams, as well as aliens, can protect this part of the pitch, mostly for your second.
A long stretchy move on sketchy feet to a hole, then another, and finally you can touch down on the ledge.
Once again, thanks to the ASCA for the rebolting...
The climb should probably still be rated with an R, but it seemed more like 5.7 then 5.8 (we didn't go over the top). The variation to the R.C.A. ledge is 5.8 to 5.9 (my shoulder hasn't recovered yet, so maybe it wasn't really as strenuous as it seemed, right arm lockoffs without any feet, to place pro is not what my PT had in mind when I promised her I'd take it easy...)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Oct 31, 2011 - 03:34pm PT
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I used to want to climb that route but lost interest after the fatality. Not a deadly route any more, with the new bolt?
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Oct 31, 2011 - 09:49pm PT
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I think the fatality was on "apparation" nearer to crescent arch. El Condor is fairly reasonable for the grade, especially now that the bolts there.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Oct 31, 2011 - 09:52pm PT
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been there, done that,
do you like the hansen fasmily?
trick or treat?
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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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I was able to climb El Condor with Brian Shore in 2002 while taking a break from May Lake. I do not remember a retro-bolt, and even at that I thought it was an enjoyable line. While runnout, the difficulties were minor and the climbimg beautiful. Brian lead the R-rated pitch and was telling jokes the entire way. There was no line at the base.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Just a note on the retrobolt in the midst of the "5.7 no pro" section - it is an old Petzl caving bolt, one of the self-drill ones with an aluminum hanger. The bolt is not too tightly placed and the steel bolt head is rusty. My guess is that it's probably only a half inch in the rock, maybe 3/4 inch. Probably comparable strength to an old 1/4" bolt.
For those climbing the 5.7 recommended finish, there is a bomber horizontal crack about 20 feet above the belay, and 3 deep pockets higher for tri-cams (a couple of which will also take aliens).
Joe grabbing the Condor knob on Friday:
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Great route, worth doing again and again. PS....joe getting it!
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
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When on this route- watch your feet.
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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