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10b4me
Ice climber
The Happies
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 16, 2006 - 02:13pm PT
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hey, anybody know the scoop? a chopper landed in HVCG I think.
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todd-gordon
climber
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Apr 16, 2006 - 09:49pm PT
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A gentleman fell on Right Ski Track.....had an injury to his face... he was wearing a helmet.....I hope he is going to be O K.....
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asioux
Trad climber
pasadena,ca
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Apr 16, 2006 - 10:27pm PT
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I was told today out at Josh (Sunday) that this guy was leading the right ski track taking several falls at the bolt and then on his last fall he flip backwards and hit his head. He fell about five feet, so I take it he didn't deck. I saw alot of blood just below the bolt all over on the wall. The guy that I spoke to said that he should have not even be on that route to begin with. Thats unfortunate, I hope he is going to be well.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Apr 16, 2006 - 11:14pm PT
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Right Ski track almost took my life. I had done the route a few times. Was solid on trad 11's. It was about my 10 pitch that day. I clipped the bolt and instead of placing a cam fired up.
I greased out, flipped upside down and with rope stretch stopped 4 inches upside down from a flat granite melon splitter.
That would have been the end of that 20 years ago.
4 inches.
Juanito
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Apr 16, 2006 - 11:43pm PT
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i watched this person start the lead and fall at the first bolt.
he looked very uneasy and did not look like he belonged on that climb at all.
my partner and i left the area and heard the first responders about twenty minutes later.
he bled alot at the base. i hope he is not seriously injured.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Apr 17, 2006 - 03:02am PT
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That Right Ski Track, along with Overhang Bypass, seem to generate a lot of accidents.
Hope everybody's OK
Karl
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jt
Trad climber
joshua tree, ca
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Apr 17, 2006 - 09:07am PT
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Sorry to hear that a fellow climber got hurt. i hope that he heals quickly.
I have climbed this route a few times, but have never watched anyone else climb it. I have always gone a couple of moves above the bolt and traversed up and left around the bulge. The first time i climbed this route, it just looked a little easier to go left, and have never tried it any other way. I have always wondered what it would be like to go staight up. I imagine this may be the way the route goes, and i may have been slightly off route. Anyone here climbed this route, or know what it is like to go straight up?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Apr 17, 2006 - 10:27am PT
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You climbed in right
going straight invites flight
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Apr 17, 2006 - 02:00pm PT
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After my near death on Right Ski Track I always placed a large cam in the pocket a few feet above the bolt.
Jeff
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Apr 17, 2006 - 02:19pm PT
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We arrived right after the guy fell. Another friend saw it happen. They helecoptered him out shortly afterwards.
Hope he has a speedy recovery.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Apr 17, 2006 - 02:32pm PT
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Hope its not serious.
I wonder what he did that distinguished him from other climbers. After all, Todd called him a "gentleman".
Juan, better be careful about bragging about 4 inches...
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Bart Fay
Social climber
Redlands, CA
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Apr 17, 2006 - 05:14pm PT
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Straight up Lower Right Ski Track is not much harder than reaching left.
I've a friend who leads it that way and he's from Boulder.
So how hard can it be ?
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Apr 17, 2006 - 05:17pm PT
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Has that spinner hanger been replaced?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Apr 17, 2006 - 08:00pm PT
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Plugging the larger cam in the pod is a good idea.
I ran into a guy once that I hadn't seen awhile. He said "You might not remember me. I saw you in Josh and you gave me beta on the Right Ski Track"
I said, "Yeah, how'd that go?"
he said "Bad. I fell, decked and broke/sprained my (can't remember) and couldn't climb for a long time."
Got nervous for a second there.
"but your beta was still good"
Whew
Peace
karl
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Apr 17, 2006 - 08:03pm PT
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hey sioux,
we we're looking for you saturday at the magic hour on the loop.
rangers chase you out of the back country again?
--wayne
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Apr 17, 2006 - 08:25pm PT
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Hearsay going around after the incedent was that he had a cam above somewhere the bolt which he reached up high to clip, adding a lot of rope to the system. Then he fell and the cam came out.
I hope he is alright.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Apr 17, 2006 - 08:38pm PT
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We arrived right after it happened (and got stuck in the parking lot while the helecopter landed to fly him out).
JB was there when it happened and told us that the leader was trying to get a cam in when he fell. John also felt the guy was in over his head. John also told us something about the guy's buddy telling the leader it was only 10a! Close to 10c in my book and powerful.
And they call me a sandbagger.
PS: The bolt is perfectly solid, but one should watch where your rope is running and be careful not to get flipped upside-down.
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Kristoffer
Big Wall climber
Blue Jay, California
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Apr 18, 2006 - 12:57am PT
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I know the guys daughter and I was just talking to her and apparently he is doing much better and it looks like he should be ok, however he is still in the hospital.
My best wished for a speedy recovery are with him.
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Honeymelon
Trad climber
crestline ca.
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Apr 18, 2006 - 02:01am PT
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Kevin suffered a shattered cheekbone and a broken nose and as far as I could tell in talking with him,no NEW brain injuries, he should be fine.
He fell off a climb any of us could, given the over chalked greasy nature of the holds and as caked up as those pockets are I'm not sure a cam would hold anyhow. Many thanks to all who helped out
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Apr 18, 2006 - 06:31pm PT
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i'm glad to hear he is relatively OK.
you're right, anyone could fall and get hurt on that climb but, i think that is true across the board.
To blame this incident on the condition of the route is off base, IMO.
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