real time on el cap ascent

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polishbob

climber
Bellingham, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 3, 2005 - 12:49pm PT
what a friggin' nit picker i am. but the question bugs me. what is the real time of the amazing ascent on el cap by tommy? starting 1:03 am on oct 30, topping off at 12:26 am on oct 31. now this is kind of important as the clocks stop at 2 am for 1 hour on oct 30 to acommodate for a time change, so this is the day with 25 hours. was the time shift accouted in this or not?
WBraun

climber
Nov 3, 2005 - 12:58pm PT
I never cared about this so called time piece ticking away, technical absurdity. They did it with Tommy at the helm. If they did it in 25 hours I could give a rats ass about the time, Tommy's whole thing he did up there with his crew is all that mattered to me.

A great piece of climbing ........ screw the clock!
Slabby D

Trad climber
B'ham WA
Nov 3, 2005 - 02:16pm PT
That's actually a sweet question!!

Way to stir the pot Polish Bob, I doubt these Yos types will know what to make of you.
polishbob

climber
Bellingham, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2005 - 02:25pm PT
this question wasn't posted to "stir the pot" or anything like that. if not interested in keeping the time of fast ascents pls don't bother reading this or replying. the question was asked to make a historical record clear. in the past few years there were some not so solid reports in "climbing press", especially on internet. the stories then are reprinted and the acurate records are lost in the sea of bullshit that follows. imo this is one of the most amazing and one of the most important milestones in yosemite climbing. hence the question is valid. i don't want to turn it into spray session of people who are more of the "computer" type climbers. we should hear some explanations from people directly involved- robert rogoz aka polishbob
Eddie

Trad climber
San Francisco
Nov 3, 2005 - 02:44pm PT
i doubt they took the time to stop and adjust their watches. If they did, then that was a pretty clever day to go for it...

if you wanted to get picky, you could sqaubble over 'in-a-day' vs in 24 hours. But you are right, these records do seem to get more hazy, and often more impressive, as the time goes on...and what better place to clarify what REALLY happened, but on an anonymous forum!
TradIsGood

Trad climber
Gunks end of country
Nov 3, 2005 - 02:49pm PT
Trick question right. Why not just send a msg to c hr is at super topo dot com? He claims to have been on the climb and posted the report. (No I am not suggesting he wasn't, simply avoiding stating as a fact, something that I do not know.)

When they started it, really bitd they stopped the trains at two and restarted. Only worked in the fall though ;P
Roger Breedlove

Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Nov 3, 2005 - 03:34pm PT
If my understanding of the effects of speed on time is right, it may get tricky to really know what the actual elapsed time was.

Tommy and Chris/Beth were moving so fast that time slowed down.

Everyone was waiting for days for them to return. It is a good thing that Beth was part of the day's events since most of us could never get away with, "Chris and I are going to run down to the base and finish off the Salathe. We'll see you back here tonight" and then not show up for a few days. "Where the hell you been? And don't be telling me about how you were gone only 12 hours. I have a watch just like you ya' know."

I tell you, if you don't know the effects of time slowing down as you move faster, you can get into all kinds of trouble keeping stories straight.

Hey Ed, you're going to back me up on this aren't you?

He,he,he. I just love exactitude.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Nov 3, 2005 - 05:33pm PT
yes, the time shift was accounted for. we "ignored" daylight savings when keeping time. so technically i guess he topped out at 1:26am

anyway, the time on the route was 23:23
polishbob

climber
Bellingham, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2005 - 11:55pm PT
??
Dire Wolf

Trad climber
San Francisco
Nov 4, 2005 - 01:48am PT
Yes!

now I can go to sleep.
yo

climber
NOT Fresno
Nov 4, 2005 - 02:15am PT
I hear you, Evoldeerb. I spent a week on Midterm one afternoon.
426

Sport climber
Shuford's Banana Pudding, TN
Nov 4, 2005 - 09:39am PT
Roger~nice nod to Mr. E!


Dru

climber
HELL, BABY, HELL!
Nov 4, 2005 - 02:50pm PT
so either they started at 1:03 AM, topped out at 12:26 AM which was really 11:26 PM after the timeshift (23:23 on route) or they started at 1:03 AM, topped out at 12:26 AM (after the timeshift) which was really 1:26 AM, for 24:23 on route... or they hung out in the deli and sent body doubles up the route.
stuey

climber
Nov 4, 2005 - 03:37pm PT
hey Dru- maybe I'm wrong but- 23:23 + 1:00 - 1:00 = 23:23
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Straight Outta Squamton
Nov 4, 2005 - 03:53pm PT
What part of the first sentence in the first post on the subject did you not understand?

"On October 30-31, Tommy Caldwell free climbed both The Nose and Freerider in a
combined time of 23 hours and 23 minutes".
Dru

climber
HELL, BABY, HELL!
Nov 4, 2005 - 04:06pm PT
ya, stuey, you are wrong. c-mac gave bob the right explanation but the wrong time, if it really did take them 23:23.

"technically i guess he topped out at 1:26am" PST - if this was true, they would have been 25:23 on route

Start 1:03 AM PDT, finish 11:26 PM PST (12:26AM PDT) = 23:23 on route (what happened)
Start 1:03 AM PDT, finish 12:26 AM PST (1:26 AM PDT) = 24:23 on route (what Bob thinks happened)
Start 1:03 AM PDT, finish 1:26 AM PST (2:26 AM PDT) = 25:23 on route (C.Mac's inadvertent explanation)

Comprende?
kimgraves

Trad climber
Brooklyn, NY
Nov 4, 2005 - 04:16pm PT
Personally I think this is a reasonable question that Polish asks. Clarifying what happened - on way or the other - doesn't in anyway diminish what Caldwell did. He's on fire! But records are, well, records. You need to know when the clock started and stopped. You need to know if he preplaced gear. For example, it's good to know that he pulled the rope after his falls rather than hang. Not that it matters, other than "for the record", "x" and "y" and "not z" is what happened.

Kim
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Straight Outta Squamton
Nov 4, 2005 - 04:30pm PT
Two questions:

1. Would it be too much of a stretch to assume that stopwatches were used?

2. Would stopwatches be affected by Daylight Savings Time reverting back?
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Nov 4, 2005 - 04:49pm PT
oops

i guess that we topped out at 1126 then.

anyway, we solved the problem of even having to think about daylight savings time by just ignoring daylight savings time. he started when the watch said 1:03am

he topped out with the watch said 12:26am.

so it was 23:23
Cracko

Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
Nov 4, 2005 - 04:56pm PT
With all due respect Polishbob, I'm damn sure I got into climbing to escape this kind of senseless pontification and analysis. I guess one never escapes human nature!! I just want to know if the time taken to sh#t or piss on a climb is deducted from the overall time ?????
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