Minimum gear requirements for mountaineering intro

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Porkchop_express

Trad climber

the base of the Shawangunk Ridge

Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 18, 2009 - 12:46am PT

What is the minimum you would recommend having to start out on some beginner mountaineering outings? (trying to figure out if the gear is in the budget)

I have an axe so far, thats about...obviously crampons are next on the list.

I want to get into it but it seems more nebulous than rock alone.

I am tired and feeling a bit overwhelmed, but psyched to start branching out. Thanks for your help and input.

Steve

LuckyPink

climber

the last bivy

Aug 18, 2009 - 01:39am PT

lungs, preferably two

Coppi

Trad climber

American Fork Utah

Aug 18, 2009 - 01:52am PT

It depends on the type of route you're looking to do. There are a lot of places you can go with an ax, crampons, a couple of prussics and a bit of rope. If you're looking at snow routes maybe a picket or two.

ryanb

climber

Seattle, WA

Aug 18, 2009 - 02:25am PT

If money is tight, an ice axe and decent boots will get you pretty far in the world of scrambling and the occasional snow field...my friends and I scrambled all sorts of peaks with little else growing up on the olympic peninsula.

I'd suggest you climb a bunch of non glaciated peaks, maybe do some multi day off trail traverses. Get your water, food, clothing and sleeping systems dialed. Practice self arrests on a steep snowfield with a good run out. Get decent and scree surfing and glissading. Learn backcountry navigation.

I'd worry more about good and light sleeping gear and clothing then crampons...maybe pick up a cheap used pair of strap ons if you really need 'em.

Do all that and when you do have the money to gear up for a glacier slog i bet it'll seem pretty anti climatic.

corniss chopper

Mountain climber

san jose, ca

Aug 18, 2009 - 03:01am PT

Porkchop - the guys are kidding you a bit but, not really, in a sense. You got to be ready to summon the 'Berserker' inside yourself when needed. There should be no superhuman move you cannot do 100 times repetitively, in the dark, sleeting, dragging a cowardly partner who's saying you're nuts.

Hard to top that level of fun!

Welcome.

note: a knife can fashion a snow stake from the last tree you pass. Toss the stake back down. You may find and use it next year.

snaps10

Mountain climber

Visalia, CA

Aug 18, 2009 - 03:25am PT

Piton guns are quite handy as well.

All joking aside, find a good mountaineering school and take a couple courses. Or find some experienced mountaineers and ask to tag along.

Haggis

Trad climber

Scotland

Aug 18, 2009 - 08:06am PT

Clothing is the big spend really.

good socks
thremal under layers / base layers
mid layer
Shell - pants jacket and maybe gaitors
maybe an active layer (like a soft shell)
insulated layer or belay jacket
Hat - gloves - goggles - sunglasses - balaclava - mitts

good luck

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Aug 18, 2009 - 10:23am PT

Clothing is the big spend really.

Not neccessarily. True, sleeping gear and clothing are probably more important than ice screws and the latest crampons, but you can pick up really good clothing for cheap if you look around.

Top-of-the-line stuff from a couple of years ago gets discarded all the time by people who need this year's top-of-the-line, and shows up in second-hand stores for cheap. This includes everything from boots on up to hats.

Knowing how to use map, compass, and altimeter is a lot more important than having a rack of seventy-dollar ice screws (which you'll hardly ever use anyway).

Re-read ryanb's post above, and then get out there.

TYeary

climber

Aug 18, 2009 - 10:38am PT

Very short memory, willingness to suffer, and...what was the third...oh,.um..I forget. But that will get you started!
Tony

Haggis

Trad climber

Scotland

Aug 18, 2009 - 10:45am PT

however climbing gear dosn't get broken and trashed a fast as your layers do. for example, I ruin a pair of socks every month and a waterproof system every other year however i have only broken one ice tool. (lord know how many ropes tho....one time we bought one in cham' and my idiot partner trod on it about 2 days later wear his nice climbing crampons).

you are right that it dosnt have to be this years top range in the chic colour but if you skimp out then you will have to shell out more $$$ when it breaks. if you are going bargain hunting then take someone who knows about gear or make sure you know the back-range specs.

sleeping systems are expensive the first time but will last years unless you have mice then it need to be sealed away in a iron box to protect it...

Porkchop_express

Trad climber

the base of the Shawangunk Ridge

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2009 - 06:38pm PT

awesome stuff! any suggestion for some starter routes? I am looking towards the winds. in september. Maybe GNP. I was thinking to attempt Gannett (sp). Is that a good time?

Mighty Hiker

Social climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Aug 18, 2009 - 06:42pm PT

Suitable, sturdy, supportive, well broken-in, well looked-after footwear is a must. They're on your feet 10 - 14 hours/day, and you'll be crippled if they fail you.

Despite the modern fad of lightweight gear, I tend to favour things that are durable, which usually means a bit heavier.

Gary

climber

Desolation Basin, Calif.

Aug 18, 2009 - 11:26pm PT

Knowing how to not kick rocks down on those below you is the first thing you need to learn. Seriously.

And how to endure hours and days of endless tedium.

Punctuated by brief seconds of absolute terror.

Then you can start thinking about gear.

That is all.

Captain...or Skully

Social climber

Boise....

Aug 19, 2009 - 12:10am PT

I'd avoid down. If it gets wet, you die.
No fun, that. Synthetic or wool.
You are not a duck. Or are you?

TMO

Trad climber

Puyallup, WA

Aug 19, 2009 - 03:09pm PT

Don't forget yer helmet!

atchafalaya

climber

Babylon

Aug 19, 2009 - 03:13pm PT

I thought mountaineering died when Steve House invented mixed climbing?

nutjob

climber

Berkeley, CA

Aug 19, 2009 - 03:56pm PT

The more you are willing to suffer with a smile, the more gear you can eliminate. Obvious things to eliminate:

heavy hiking boots (I like light $30 hiking boots from Big5, typically Hi-Tech brand when they go on sale. You can climb OK in them up to 5.8 or so, above that bring some climbing shoes)

stove, cook gear, plates/cups/utensils (unless you are in consistent sub-zero and need to melt ice for drinking water, just bring a stove & 1 pot)

tent (just go with emergency bivy sack or a tarp... parties of 4+ or long leisurely trips, or couple wanting "privacy" easier to rationalize bringing a tent)

sleeping bag (bring a 'space blanket' instead for 1-2 nights)

changes of clean clothes... just bring enough that you can wear all at once (different rules may apply in high-rain areas)

toiletry kit? wipe yer bum with rocks, sticks, leaves, bark, balls of ice, etc. You don't need to brush your teeth or hair, or take care of your skin (maybe some lotion if you have serious cracking dry skin issues)

with all this stuff gone, you don't need a big backpack any more

Do bring a light alpine rack: a single strand of an 8mm 60mm rope (depending on route, might want both of the double ropes).... a dozen dyneema slings and lightweight biners folded into quickdraws, a couple of lockers, a couple of double slings, a set of nuts and a half dozen cams

With this setup, you are ready for almost anything in the Eastern Sierra. But, you better be mentally prepared to suffer and to get done whatever needs to get done if things don't go according to plan.

And probably better to start with more stuff and whittle it down as your comfort/experience/tolerance for suffering increases.