Slashface, Joshua Tree

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 21 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 27, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
Was just out there yesterday, hiking back from the Lost Pencil area and stopped at Slashface. Though I'm not certain (lots of chalk), it looks as though the first few moves (on the rounded horizontal rills) have been subtly enhanced, made flatter, the rock behind the holds chiseled with a pin (or something) to make extra room for the digits.

Again, I'm not positive about this enhancement- you'd have to wash off the face and inspect it closely to know for sure - but if so this is a shame, for Slashface is really one of the great, relatively easy (V3) highballs in the US.

JL
Brian

climber
Cali
Apr 27, 2009 - 04:33pm PT
If confirmed, that is tragic. It is (was) a great problem, which scared me good.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 27, 2009 - 04:42pm PT
egads. hard to fathom. those starter moves were only 5.11 -- why bother making them easier??? besides, being good enough to pull the hard moves meant you'd likely be safe on the jugs up higher.

sure hope it's a false alarm, but largo's been around long enough to know a chisel job when he sees one...
72hw

Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
Apr 27, 2009 - 04:48pm PT
Having only encountered chipped or glued holds in areas of the Santa Monica Mtns. where I knew ahead of time the rock had been 'enhanced', I am not sure I could ID a chipped or sculpted hold elsewhere.

What are the more obvious signs the rock has been altered? Anyone have any pics of this dastardly deed?

Sheer curiosity on my part...

Bad news about Slashface if indeed it has been doctored, sad news indeed.

F10

Trad climber
e350
Apr 27, 2009 - 07:00pm PT
Largo, any good stories from the Lost Pencil?? I was pulling out of Santanas sunday morning trying to reverse the damage done saturday night, and saw you headed east, caused me to ponder for a moment and wonder if you were looking for the Boom Boom Room ?? Bummer on Slashface if true.
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Apr 27, 2009 - 07:13pm PT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ns1sf71l6Rk
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Apr 27, 2009 - 07:18pm PT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SWctPzd5RuE
bachar

Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Apr 27, 2009 - 08:57pm PT
Wow that problem looks cool.... where is it?
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Apr 27, 2009 - 09:24pm PT
It's all an effort to even the playing field..

Now any of the V1 climbers can get on (and top-out) one of those great classics......

Isn't that what it's all about in this race-to-the-bottom society? I mean... even the fat kid wearing the Babylon Five t-shirt gets a passing grade when in gym class!!
stevep

Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
Apr 27, 2009 - 10:59pm PT
Horribly silly use of heelhook to top out in that first link JdF posted.
locker

Trad climber
Joshua Tree Ca
Apr 28, 2009 - 12:34am PT
Altering a move is about as DUMB as it comes...

It's no longer the move...

"Hey!!! I did the 5.15b today!!!"...

Forgetting of course to MENTION that you had "ALTERED" the route/move down to 3rd class earlier in that day...

jbar

Social climber
urasymptote
Apr 28, 2009 - 12:45am PT
glued, chiseled, holds or any other such molestation of a route is unheard of here. It's so wrong I can't imagine someone even conceiving the idea. Not to mention I think the culprit would be hunted down and dealt with around these parts. The vast majority of our climbs look easy but are difficult because the holds are sloppers, facing the wrong way or just very shallow. All could be made easier with a little modification but I don't think that will ever happen.

Trad guy mantles
Pad guy heel hooks
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Redlands
Apr 28, 2009 - 05:30pm PT
Personally I think the speculation is off the mark. I've done the problem many times (granted all in the last 3 years) and as recently as a month ago. Feels the same to me as it ever did and I can't see anything indicative of more than normal wear from hands and feet, certainly nothing that looks like chipping or similar.
navblk4

climber
Constitutional, states
Apr 29, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
While i am very efficient at cracking i am not with
precision cracking.

A friend of mine for years who lives in the state of
Uranium has a masters degree in Geology. They marked
before we cracked in the past.

If the digits you are referring to could include marking
and cracking, just let me know and I would be more than
happy and honored to travel there with you and crack it.
He to would probably be more than happy to go along.
navblk4

climber
Constitutional, states
Apr 30, 2009 - 11:55am PT
Note. Depending on the decision with fill it's probable that
housing of the placements would need to be approximately
25% less than the maximum of an acute angle, hence doubling
the maximum of an acute angle being the normal angle sought
for placements may not be feasible.
hossjulia

Trad climber
Eastside
Apr 30, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
navblk4 = thread killer
navblk4

climber
Constitutional, states
May 21, 2009 - 11:56am PT
"navblk4 = thread killer"

Largo understands what i'm saying. Perhaps i'm mis-interpreting
ethics for adding additional cracks and other holds.
medusa

Trad climber
culver city
May 21, 2009 - 12:19pm PT
There is alot of chiping going on! What about BG's new routes.
Al dudes old Tr's now BG's new rap job enhanced holds? 11 bolts.
gonz

Trad climber
yosemite
May 21, 2009 - 03:18pm PT
Phil on slash face last year
Murf

climber
May 21, 2009 - 04:30pm PT
Hang on now Medusa!! Reads as if you saying BG is doing some enhancing of holds. Sounds like you're specifically referencing Boulderado. I've done the pitch, and would be curious as to what you think is "enhanced".

Also, I can tell you from multiple experiences (my own as well as others) that BG is one of the few stances drillers left in Josh. I personally can't guarantee that he never raps it in, but Boulderado isn't hard enough for him rap bolt.
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