ElCap Report 10/16/08

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elcap-pics

climber

Crestline CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 16, 2008 - 11:32pm PT

Yo.. Another super duper day here. Perfect temps to climb in the Valley but maybe just a tad warm on the Great Stone. The fire to the west is still making shooting difficult but far from impossible. The Nose was pretty crowded today and the Salathe saw some action. The rest of the routes are just sitting there waiting for you to show up!!
Today's report is brought to by YOU, the climbers who want to be here so badly but, for the most part, have other obligations. YOU are the reason for the Report I do each day. I want YOU to be inspired and motivated to get out here and get in some ElCap time. ElCap had sort of fallen into the back waters of climbing in recent years and I wanted to renew interest in it in the community at large. So I have tried to connect with YOU directly. YOU have responded and I hope YOU can get the full benefits that the ElCap experience can provide.
So, sell the car, get a ticket to the Valley, fill the haulbags and get on the route of YOUR dreams. I promise YOU some killer shots that YOU will remember for a lifetime.
Today's ElCap Report is here, now, for YOU...

Water Fall route: Well... the climb done by Alec and DanO, the other day, has generated some interest so Will and Jason went up on it today to try some free climbing. I saw them in the afternoon above the 5th pitch. Good luck and have fun guys!!

Zodiac: Bob and Ryan were starting the last pitch as I left this afternoon and are over the top by now. Nice work guys and you get the award for the most colorful kit on the route this season!!
Pitch above Peanut Ledge
Bob and Ryan heading for the top on Zodiac

Gary and Eric climbed the Nipple and Mark of Zorro and were poised to head to Peanut ledge when I left. They might not have gone higher as the time was getting late and that pitch is a long one. In any event they should be off sometime tomorrow if all goes well. They have shown themselves to be a tough team with tenacity and will power. BTW they swooped the food and water that was left at the top of the Nipple last week. So don't plan on getting free water if you are going up there in the near future!! Ugh Oh.. the pic shows it is still there, maybe I wrote in haste about the food and water being gone. I will check tomorrow for sure.
Gary leading the Mark of Zorro
Gary above the Mark of Zorro

Nose: I did see a couple of NIAD teams today including friend Clay (Dude 1) Usinger and his partner Mason. They climbed through a crowd at the Boot and were last seen heading toward camp 5. There were two Canadian women, Jenn and Jasmine, on the route and they climbed to Dolt and came down late in the day. Several other teams were on the route too, some in pairs and some in groups of 3. Everyone seemed to be getting along.
Two teams from yesterday were seen going over the top in the afternoon including one that come across on the 3D.
Today's leading group in profile on the Nose.
Safety committee meeting on the Boot
Mason making the reach on the King Swing
Clay lowering off after Mason back cleaned hard on the Roof.

Muir: I haven't seen them but I hear that Ivo, Ammon and son Austin are on this really super nice route. They fixed three and blasted today heading for Mammoth Terrace. Have fun in those upper dihedrals lads!!

Golden Gate: I saw the Norwegian team high on the route working on the traverse after the Golden Desert pitch.

Salathe/Freerider: Two teams were seen lower on the route. The team of two in the lead did the Monster crack and I last saw them above ECS. A team of three with little or no bags came up after them. They were sporting some nice yellow shirts and they too climbed the Monster. The rest of the route appeared empty.
Starting the fun stuff on the Monster crack
Today's best dressed team on the Monster crack

In other news: There has been some slacklining up on the LA but it is over now. The valley is getting pretty smokey these days so those perfectly clear fall days are on hold for the time being. The art auction sponsored by YCA is tomorrow so if you want some nice stuff come on by the Ansel Adams Gallery tomorrow evening and bid on your favorites and help out the YCA too. Wine and food are being served! I have a few of my moon shot posters, signed by Hans and Yuji the other day, at the bridge so if you want one come on by... proceeds go to the YCA!
So that's the way it is for this the 16th day of October 2008.
Be there or be square! ECP's

climber

I drink your milkshake!

Oct 17, 2008 - 12:13am PT

Bitchen plaid belay jacket!

Thanks Tom.

Nohea

Trad climber

Aiea,Hi

Oct 17, 2008 - 02:44am PT

What a Day! Mine was Ok too I quit my job but hell I did not do any climbing. Thank you for sharing!

Aloha,
wil

Karl Baba

Trad climber

Yosemite, Ca

Oct 17, 2008 - 02:57am PT

these El Cap reports are becoming over the top great.

Good thing you don't work for homeland security.

the shots are so clear, I feel like I'm window shopping for my next El Cap route

Peace

karl

Mighty Hiker

Social climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Oct 17, 2008 - 02:58am PT

Thanks, Tom - another fine report.

Please say hello to Will and Jason for me, if you see them.

enjoimx

Big Wall climber

SLO Cal

Oct 17, 2008 - 03:02am PT

Thanx for the PICS!!!

Killer!

Do you ever see people do Salathe in a day?

Kinda what I wanna do next!

Thanx

Rob

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber

like Ontario, Canada, eh?

Oct 17, 2008 - 06:20am PT

Bee-yutey! Aren't those guys missing the bottom parts of the Monster Cracks?

elcap-pics

climber

Crestline CA

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2008 - 10:29am PT

Actually these shots are from photobucket and they really suck when compared to the real ones .... if you get a cd from me you will be amazed at the sharpness and color.
Yeah Pete but if you do the bottom of the Monster then you miss out on the fun of doing the Ear!!
Salathe is not done a lot in a day .... the ticket seems to be Free Rider in a day, free of course!!

Ottawa Doug

Social climber

Ottawa, Canada

Oct 17, 2008 - 01:48pm PT

Hey Tom,

Super crisp pics. I agree with Karl that we can go window shopping for our next route (pronounced rout) with these pics.
Always sweet to read this report. Certainly one of the best parts of my day.

Cheers,

Doug

P.S. Has anyone seen 'Joe The Plumber' up on the Captain? He
seems to be everywhere else these days. :)

Bruce Perschbacher

climber

Carbonale,Ill. 62901.

Oct 18, 2008 - 03:36pm PT

Hey Tom,
Superb report and tremendous pics. It`s what gets me through the day. Thanks again for all your hard work for our benefit.
Cheers,
Bruce.

Ammon

Big Wall climber

El Cap

Oct 26, 2008 - 04:21am PT

Thought I'd throw this in the mix. ArrrHAA HAA!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwwVQYcdC5Q

parentsofAlthea

Social climber

Troy, NY

Oct 26, 2008 - 07:24am PT

When I spoke to Althea early AM on 10/25, she mentioned that she did not need the one gallon of water or the food she found stashed over half way up on Zodiac. She still had 3 gallons of water and only a few more days (hopefully) to climb.

That night she was awakened in her platform and had to put her contacts back in to see what was squeaking over her head. It was a family of bats that preferred resting in her accommodations to their nook. Since she is climbing alone, she's grateful to see critters every day, mostly birds and lizards, but didn't expect bats.