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| Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 23, 2008 - 05:58pm PT
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I have found a new crag with very solid conglomerate and want to know how people bolt these sorts of things. Perhaps someone from Utah can comment on some of their crags.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 23, 2008 - 06:01pm PT
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invalid without pics.
;)
seriously though it depends on the matrix. At pinnacles some of the matrix is very tight and others it is very loose. 3.5" is the minimum there, but some titanium glue ins have gone in on the heavily travelled routes.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2008 - 06:04pm PT
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Will post pics later. Is Pinnacles rock soft or fairly hard?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Sep 23, 2008 - 06:05pm PT
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Pinnacles is hard rock that's held together by kitty litter.
3 1/2" or 4" 5-pieces seem to work pretty well there...
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Sep 23, 2008 - 06:19pm PT
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Most are golf-ball to football sized cobbles.
When you're drilling through the litter, things go pretty smoothly. Then you hit one of those cobbles, and the drill starts bouncing back at'cha.
I did a route on The Hand (one of the formations out there), and some bolts took 30-45 minutes to drill. Like the two belay bolts on the first pitch.
Then others I didn't really need much of a hammer...Yikes!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 23, 2008 - 06:28pm PT
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At Pinnacles (National Monument, CA), the rock is (volcanic) breccia, and the knobs are rhyolite. Not strictly a conglomerate, which is sedimentary.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conglomerate_(geology);
the above doesn't parse right, so maybe try:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conglomerate
"Conglomerates are sedimentary rocks consisting of rounded fragments and are thus differentiated from breccias, which consist of angular clasts.[1] Both conglomerates and breccias are characterized by clasts larger than sand (>2 mm)."
Well, the fragments at Pinnacles are usually rounded, but sometimes are angular...
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Sep 23, 2008 - 07:01pm PT
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Don't even think about using anything smaller than this:
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Sep 23, 2008 - 08:18pm PT
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Looks fairly solid and dense. I'd suggest drilling some test holes to see how hard it is through the first 3 or 4 inches. I'm guessing you'd be fine with 3/8" by 3 or 3 1/2" long 5-piece or Triplex bolts in this stuff.
Looks like you have a lot of drilling in your immediate future.
Is this an entirely new area, or are there existing routes? If there are other routes, ask around and see what has been used with success by other bolters.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2008 - 09:30pm PT
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Area is entirely new and cliffs are on private land. However the owner wants to sell in the spring. I own the land next door but my cliffs are scruffy.
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Flashlight
climber
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Sep 23, 2008 - 09:43pm PT
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One of these...
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