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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
Dogger
Social climber
SE
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 14, 2005 - 03:42pm PT
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What is the frequency of this being done? Is it more committing than a cordless Astroman or Rostrum ascent due to the 11 friction sections?
Others thoughts...
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Matt
Trad climber
moving to the RIGHT
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Feb 14, 2005 - 03:57pm PT
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most of that climb is pretty easy, but the 11b slab pitch would strike me as a suprising FS, but i'm sure there are climbers that have it dialed. would those elite climbers enjoy freeblast enough to go chuck laps on it? i kinda doubt it.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Feb 14, 2005 - 04:42pm PT
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you'd have to solo with a harness on to rap the fixed ropes...unlesss you wanted to use the munterschnitzl rappel method or whatever the fk that is called.
probly not many folks would want to downclimb the face section. I'd also be worried about climbing under gumbies who might drop stuff on you.
but I don't free solo, so what do I care...
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Feb 14, 2005 - 04:49pm PT
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That undercling on the 3rd pitch, though only 5.11a, is mightly insecure. And the fall is a long one.
Yikes!
JL
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10b4me
Trad climber
Walking into the MRB
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Feb 14, 2005 - 11:19pm PT
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you'd have to solo with a harness on to rap the fixed ropes...unlesss you wanted to use the munterschnitzl rappel method or whatever the fk that is called.
munterhitch
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 14, 2005 - 11:27pm PT
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Others thoughts...
Mr. Ouch! soloed it back in the day. Was it 57 or 58? When real men made shoes by hand and women were women.
Now ..... I’m not so sure.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 14, 2005 - 11:57pm PT
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dulfersitz?
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 15, 2005 - 12:02am PT
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Yep that's it Ed. It'll burn the crap outa ya on overhangs, remember.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 15, 2005 - 12:28am PT
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I think I still have scars on my shoulders, ugh... but you knew right away when you were going too fast!
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Spinmaster K-Rove
Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
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Feb 15, 2005 - 12:42am PT
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I haven't heard of anyone soing this but I'm not really in the loop.
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Feb 15, 2005 - 02:25pm PT
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That friction pitch would be hideous. Ditto the undercling. makes my palms sweat just thinking about it. At least you could rig some kind of leash on the many fixed pieces if you felt you needed to.
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john hansen
climber
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Nov 19, 2014 - 06:42pm PT
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Bump.
Was wondering if any one has done this yet. Last post 2005.
I think friction moves are much less likely to be free soloed.
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john hansen
climber
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Nov 19, 2014 - 06:52pm PT
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Yeah, isn't that 5.12?
Warbler , you posted recently about El Cap being free soloed within 5 years. Got me thinking what route would go. The Salathe is the "easiest" free climb on EC , I think. there are a lot more now.
This would be a good first step.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Nov 19, 2014 - 06:56pm PT
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Free soloing friction is super rare, even among the elite. Bachar maybe the last to solo true friction? Honnold's are face climbs....rare enough.
Edit: There are thin edges under the roof. And Honnold did free solo the last pitch on RNWF.......after much thinking about it.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 19, 2014 - 06:59pm PT
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Free soloing friction is super rare...
Hmm Most of em seemed like freesolos to me.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Nov 19, 2014 - 07:01pm PT
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Ahaha....that they do....
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Nov 19, 2014 - 07:08pm PT
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It's true Warbler about the mental block....I've lead the third on Free Blast. It is weird in that it seems more insecure then harder climbs I've done. Kind of scruntched up under the roof..
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 19, 2014 - 07:56pm PT
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If you need gear to get off it ain't a freesolo.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Nov 19, 2014 - 11:18pm PT
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... the most likely free route on EC would be The Salathe with an escape left to Thanksgiving below The Headwall. (...)
It would be the easiest way to free climb the Salathe Wall, meaning the southwest face. Obviously the stylish finish would be the Freerider's upper pitches.
Pretty sure that traverse goes free to Thanksgiving.
Potts did FS the upper half of FreeRider.
Warbler may be on to something.
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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
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