14b Free Solo by Dave Macleod

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Broken

climber
Texas
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 14, 2008 - 12:20am PT
Macleod just soloed 8c.

http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/03/training-climbs-for-ben-nevis-8c-solo.html

I'd not seen Macleod's blog before. Some interesting material there. Thoughts on soloing, training, etc.

Here's a video from E11 of Macleod soloing a 5.13d - which he acknowledges is only about 25 feet off the ground for much of its length due to steepness and the hillside behind it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GOW2iwgPdI
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Mar 14, 2008 - 03:40am PT
whoa, thot it was Salad for a minute there.


so true this quote from his blog...

"performance paradox of extreme effort but feeling effortless at the same time."

effortless effort or "wu wei"
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Mar 14, 2008 - 04:14am PT
I will never, ever, be able to climb 5.14 (or 5.13 for that matter) but it would have been nice if Macleod wasn't about 12 feet off the ground after he finished soloing. Looked more like an extended boulder problem than a free solo to me.

Bruce
mcreel

climber
Barcelona, Spain
Mar 14, 2008 - 08:09am PT
Why would that be nice? :-) Actually, I've been to Margalef, and if I remember right, this route does finish a respectable distance off the ground. Unfortunately, I can't remember where the crux is. Hmm, maybe I didn't actually do that route (?).
Mick Ryan

Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
Mar 14, 2008 - 01:05pm PT
Video of Dave redpointing Darwin Dixit 8c prior to his solo here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=03&year=2008#n43039

Interview with Dave about his 8c solo here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=868
James

climber
a porch in Chinese Camp
Mar 14, 2008 - 01:11pm PT
He grabbed the chains on that 13d.
Barto

climber
Minneapolis, MN
Mar 14, 2008 - 01:21pm PT
wanker!
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Mar 14, 2008 - 01:49pm PT
Dave is a bad ass and a really chill guy.
I got to hang with him in Mexico one winter and he was fun to climb and hang out with. Not to mention very fit an motivated. regardless of the length of that solo, it looked pretty cool as classic limestone can be...
Ks
Broken

climber
Texas
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2008 - 02:08pm PT
Anyone know how hard the upper section of Darwin Dixit (the 8c) is?

Thanks for posting that video, Mick.

Definitely not a boulder problem...

And, I must admit, I'm rooting for Dave to someday complete his Ben Nevis project. Sounds like it would be something special.
SilasCL

Boulder climber
San Francisco, CA
Mar 14, 2008 - 03:20pm PT
Anyone know where I can see some footage of To Hell and Back, the "E10 Death Route" he talks about in his blog?
Tim Lawrence

Trad climber
Madrid, Spain
Mar 14, 2008 - 05:36pm PT
Stood under the route and climbed in the area. Really impressive. Not a boulder problem. I remember the route being more horizontal than vertical. Still if you fell, you'd get hurt, maybe really hurt and possibly dead. The rock in Margalef is conglomerate. Really amazing area to climb. Super relaxed and less people then Siurana. Has a great hostal and the owner is super cool.
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