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Fathertime
Trad climber
West Side, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 17, 2007 - 06:24pm PT
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I am wanting to climb with my two sons who are 16 and 10. I was thinking this setup would speed up the whole 3 dopes on a rope condundrum. Currently, I have one good rope (Mammut 9.5 Infinity). I have several questions.
1. Do both ropes have to be equal diameter? ( I am old school and ropes were 11mm when I started and slings were tied 1" tubular.) I 'm thinking I want a beefier rope to accomodate my sheer girth (it is a mental thing), although the 9.5 is light.
2. Which device is better? I have the reversino and it seems to work okay, but if the ATC guide is better I would get it.
3. Stacking the both ropes is kind of a pain, suggestions?
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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Aug 17, 2007 - 06:34pm PT
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"2. Which device is better? I have the reversino and it seems to work okay, but if the ATC guide is better I would get it.
3. Stacking the both ropes is kind of a pain, suggestions?"
reversino with a 9.5mm rope? Isn't it spec'd for 8.x and smaller?
When I climb in parties of 3, I prefer double ropes. More efficient for freeclimbing in parties of 3 than using singles. If you're only doing a couple of pitches I guess it doesn't matter much, but when climbing anything bigger, I strongly prefer efficient practices.
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Fathertime
Trad climber
West Side, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2007 - 06:38pm PT
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My bad it is the reverso, I was planning on using singles as I would only need one more cord not two.
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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Aug 17, 2007 - 06:43pm PT
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"I was planning on using singles as I would only need one more cord not two."
I understand that part. When I was starting out, if we needed 2 rope raps, we'd drag an extra single. It was what we had. But it was so fraking inefficient, that finally I bought both a full-length 6mm rap cord, and double ropes, and I don't think I've ever freeclimbed with 2 single ropes since then.
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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Aug 17, 2007 - 06:56pm PT
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A big advantage to using doubles or twins while bringing up the seconds together is you stack the ropes together. With singles, you try to keep 'em separate.
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esoteric1
Trad climber
san dieco, ca
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Aug 17, 2007 - 06:58pm PT
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http://www.summitpost.org/images/medium/227249.JPG
thats pretty standard for bringing up 2 seconds...
I wouldnt worry about the diamater of the chord unless the approach is arduous. at that point I would go with a revirsino and a couple of halfs or twins, provided you would be doing the leading....
i would bring 2 full strength chords , and trail one while you lead... unless...of course its a full tilt death march, at that point i would use a couple of lengths of dental floss...if you have the cash... if not no worries, make the kids cary them. as far as the two diamaters of rope going through one device, it depends on how skinny the rope is, be careful and check the directions when you buy it, it will say how skinny you wanna go with every device you get,.....other than that, you can actualy get as fast as a party of two (almost) with a guide or a revirso, when climbing as a party of three...it works well.
mark
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Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
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Aug 17, 2007 - 07:15pm PT
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ATC Guide works really well with two ropes of the same diameter. IF you use two twin or "skinny" ropes, (or even one) if your sons fall they will have a longer fall as the skinny ropes stretch more.
The single 9.5 your talking about is the way to go. Yea you'll be pulling more rope, but you may save a broken ankle.
Get the two lead lines, (9.5) an ATC guide doesn't work well with two different diameter ropes. The skinnier of the two will slip in the device.
When the boys get to the belay, put them to work separating the two ropes. HINT, tie one rope into your harness and the second attach to your belay loop on an overhand, with a locker. If when you have them separate the ropes and you have a snarl, unlock the one rope from the biner and presto' snarl all gone.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Aug 17, 2007 - 07:38pm PT
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I use two 8's (doubles) on a munter hitch, together. This works well as one will slide through the other while the first follower starts climbing. When the second roped follower begins simulclimbing 15 ft under the first follower, you pull them together. Of course both climbers have to climb at the same speed. This brings a party of three up the climb in good speed.
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