The Jardine traverse.

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 20 in this topic
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 3, 2007 - 09:20am PT
So how much portland cement will I need to patch that crap up?
GDavis

Trad climber
SoCal
Aug 3, 2007 - 09:48am PT
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2007 - 09:50am PT
mmmmmm wall food.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Aug 3, 2007 - 09:55am PT
LOTS!

;)
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Aug 3, 2007 - 10:10am PT
Cement... that'll look pretty! Please mix blue die in with it to ensure ugliness!
weschrist

climber
South Lake Taco
Aug 3, 2007 - 01:45pm PT
That is part of an established route. You should respect the hard work of the FA team and leave that sh#t alone.

How would "fixing" that be any different than filling in all the pin scars throughout the valley? Or chopping bolt ladders? I will pour cement down Serenity and fill all those chipped pockets in...

2xstandards4lyphe
GDavis

Trad climber
SoCal
Aug 3, 2007 - 01:47pm PT
Ethichs smethics. Tis-a-sac is 25% bolts, and its a robbins route! Lets kill him.
adventurewagen

Trad climber
Seattle
Aug 3, 2007 - 02:55pm PT
Why would you even ask a question like that??? How about you start by first climbing the route.

and... If you can even figure out exactly which holds are the chipped ones how will you fill them in? Will you eliminate them completely? Will you try to restore the holds to what they once were?

Oh and don't forget the bolts, no need for those without the traverse, right?

Now a better option; instead of being a dumbass would be to do the route in good style and lug out any and all garbage you find along the way. That right there would speak much louder than trying to fix a long standing problem that many wouldn't view as a problem.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Aug 3, 2007 - 03:01pm PT
`bout sums it up...
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Aug 3, 2007 - 03:14pm PT
Yo... I will tell you something Son... that traverse is for 99% of the people who use it simply a bolt ladder... they do all sorts of things from cheater sticks to using the rope as a slack line to reach the next bolt and so on... it is very rarely done using the chipped holds and affords a convenient way to get around slower parties on the regular route thus making things safer for a lot of climbers... that said... they should have chopped the bolts 30 years ago but now I think it is way too late to be messing with something that the climbing community has decided to keep in place all these years...so listen to the guys who have posted above... leave well enough alone and "be a do-gooder" in other ways...
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Aug 3, 2007 - 03:24pm PT
"using the rope as a slack line to reach the next bolt"

Please post pics, Tom!

Cheers!
Peter

climber
Aug 3, 2007 - 05:38pm PT
Is there a feasible way to restore the monster scars on the first pitch of serenity back to the original condition? It's a fun route but that pitch is an embarrassment.
jstan

climber
Aug 3, 2007 - 09:25pm PT
I saw Serenity in the early 70's. What was there originally was gone forever, even then. It has become a poster child.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Aug 4, 2007 - 12:14am PT
Heh. Talked to Glen Denny the other day about that route. When they first went up it you couldn't even see the seam under all the moss. Can o' worms is right.
426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Aug 4, 2007 - 07:18am PT
according to Lynn Hill's book "it goes" (or would have) without RJs handiwork.

Serenity NOW
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Aug 4, 2007 - 01:04pm PT
If it goes without RJ's chipping, let's see somebody do it. If you needed to use the holds that RJ chipped, it's just speculation that it would have gone with the original holes.

As for Serenity, wannna do it without the pin scars, it's pretty much there still, it's called Adreniline Crack

peace

Karl
GDavis

Trad climber
SoCal
Aug 4, 2007 - 01:59pm PT
There are much better pitches to talk about!





Almost any single pitch of The Nose would be a 5 star route on its own...








... from what I've seen :D I'll stick to my low angle dummy domes.
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2007 - 03:05pm PT
OK. So it sounds like a bigger job than anticipated.
Isuppose honing my masonary skills on rebuilding Serenity crack would be a good warm up. Then it seems like I will have to haul a portable cement mixer up the Captain to work the Jardine traverse. Who knows in time the fixed mixer may be as fondly appreciated as Maestri's compressor. Might even make a good fixed stance. In 30 or 40 years everyone will say it can't be removed it is part of climbing history. Any volunteers to haul 90# bags of concrete and a few hundred gallons of water?
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Aug 5, 2007 - 07:56am PT
I would like to add here as an old general and mill contractor that very inconspicuous repairs to stone are performed all the time in the stone fabrication industry and during installation of same. And certainly in historic renovation procedures as well.

The basic approach is mixing matching stone dust and stone particles with either polyester paste or epoxy paste, catalyzing the mix appropriately and also perhaps coloring it with the appropriate tints to match. Or having several differently colored batches that you variously blend while applying. Application is usually by knife or small trowel or any tool that works the shapes best. Thinning/cleanup is with acetone or similar. The repair can be ground, polished, stained etc.
The results can be incredibly congruent with the surrounds. And are extremely durable. You all would be surprised.

As many of us have commented on the Jardine Traverse in previous threads, I guess the only new part of these discussions is Philo’s interesting fresh creative trolling question about repair. And then of course, secondarily, repair of other routes such as poor old Serenity Crack and the Center of Little John.

Let me assure you that fixing these pitches is in fact possible and in a manner that could be very very hard to detect. I have no idea if we should eventually do this kind of “historic renovation” or not, but speaking from the technical side only, you all should know the results could be amazing if done by pros given enough time and help, whether practical or not in the locations we are talking about. The actual number of spots to fix would of course have to be in reason as well.
weschrist

climber
South Lake Taco
Aug 5, 2007 - 08:50am PT
Any volunteers to haul 90# bags of concrete and a few hundred gallons of water?

Just leave a couple bottles up there and have everyone piss in them on their way through.
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