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John Vawter
climber
CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 22, 2004 - 01:58pm PT
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Red Rock Odyssey -- Classic Traditional Climbs
Larry DeAngelo and Bill Thiry
Verex Press, Las Vegas, 2004
ISBN 0-9753074-0-1
In early May a group of friends gathered at Red Rocks to celebrate Allen Steck's birthday. This has become an informal annual event during which people from near and far come to climb and commune. One not so early morning in 13-mile Campground, on our way to a day of gang cragging, Vegas resident "Scary" Larry DeAngelo stopped by for a visit.
Larry had a stack of freshly printed copies of Red Rock Odyssey -- Classic Traditional Climbs, the book he wrote with Bill Thiry. The complusive collectors among us lined up to buy a copy almost sight unseen. As we stood around thumbing through, we began to realize what a gem Larry and Bill have created. Over the next few days, passages from the book became frequent topics of thoughtful conversation. Now that I have had a chance to read the book, I am compelled to spread the word. Larry and Bill have done us a great service in conceiving and bringing to print a book about traditional rock climbs well within the average climber's reach, their history, and the rewards of climbing them.
Red Rock Odyssey is steeped in the history of modern rock climbing, and the ambience of one of the most beautiful rock climbing areas in the world. Most of the routes described were put up in the early 1970's, a time of exploration, unprecedented advances in free climbing standards, and impeccable ethics. This book is a window, even a portal---because these routes can be climbed today---to that time. The foreward by Joe Herbst is a marvel for what it conveys in just six pages about the Zeitgeist of the period. It is a credit to Larry that Joe, an intensely private man, agreed to write something so clearly from the heart.
The book isn't easily categorized. Although it contains a dozen or so pitch by pitch descriptions, and some photographs of the routes with belays marked, it is not a guidebook. And although it includes stories about the first ascents for the routes covered, and some wonderful insights into the ideas and personalities of the pioneers of Red Rocks, it is not a history of Red Rocks climbing. Finally, it is not merely a collection of stories about modern ascents of routes with historical significance, though it includes one of those for each of the routes described. Instead, Larry and Bill combine elements of each into an informative and satisfying little book.
Red Rock Odyssey focuses on traditional routes that exemplify the Red Rocks experience, and on the pioneers who first recognized the area's potential for rock climbing. The ideas and vision of those pioneers are still strongly felt today. Not surprisingly, a handful of names appear again and again: Herbst, Tom Kaufman, Larry Hamilton, the late Randy Grandstaff, and of course, George and Joanne Urioste. But there are others as well, a few you probably have never heard of. Larry is a student of Red Rock history, having been a climber himself since 1969, and he brings our attention to some of the unsung heroes of the early days such as John Williamson and Joe Frani.
The photos are sharp, clear black and whites, and mostly very good. Many are from vantages I've never seen before. A few are spectacular such as the full view of Rainbow Buttress. Even the butt shots are good, and since butt shots were par for the course in the '70s, they fit right in. In addition, there are many photos of the main characters, both old and new.
The route descriptions are in narrative form: "Pitch 1: Ascend the obvious corner to a belay ledge. 5.9" (My favorite. If I had my way, we'd all go back to narrative descriptions because a narrative is harder to follow, and that means more adventure.) But again, this is not a guide. There are only 12 routes described, and with the exception of Snake Buttress, you won't find a route description in Red Rock Odyssey that you can't get in the old Urioste guide. However, if you are a devotee of traditional climbing, or aspire to be one, you can't afford not to own this book.
To help put the achievements of those first Red Rocks climbers into perspective, the authors include in several chapters an account of a modern ascent. In one amusing adventure Larry persuades an incredulous Alex Chiang to climb a route (Tunnel Vision) with only the equipment that was available at the time of the first ascent: hexes, stoppers, tube chocks, titons, swami belts, and hip belays!
But on Velvet Wall, Larry brings a few cams just in case, and after using one or two, succumbs to clipping the bolts that were added after the first ascent. While Larry "failed" to climb Velvet Wall in the style of the first ascent party, he succeeds in conveying the daunting formidability of these huge cliffs before cams, topos and well marked descent routes became commonplace. Larry is a participant in most of these modern ascents. His accounts make clear that writing and researching this book was a labor of love.
For some reason I read the penultimate chapter, Black Orpheus, first. I was pleased to read it again in the order in which it was intended. The chapter focuses on George Urioste, perhaps Red Rocks' most influential figure, and it resonated with me like no other chapter in the book. George had some peculiar ideas for the 1970's. For example, he felt that routes should be "couth," that is, prepared for the convenience of parties to follow. This included equipping a climb with good protection. If natural protection was not available, or questionable, George would install bolts. At the time, bolting was generally seen as a last resort, the fewer the better, and bold climbing was revered. So his ideas were a radical departure from the commonly accepted tactics of the time.
With the benefit of hindsight, it could be argued that George's practice of safely protecting a climb was as important a factor in making a climb a classic as the quality of the climbing, or the grandeur of the line. The fact is that many of the routes on which George put his ideas into practice have become time honored classics, while many poorly protected routes languish in relative obscurity. Black Orpheus, Epinephrine, Dream of Wild Turkeys, Prince of Darkness, Levitation 29, Eagle Dance, among many others make up just the core of George's long and stellar first ascent list.
Still, I have mixed feelings about the practice of making a route "couth," especially when it comes to bolting. For me, the most satisfying aspect of climbing by far is overcoming fear on the lead. I feel cheated when the protection is too good. But after reading this book, and three of my own climbing trips to Red Rocks, I realize there is a great variety of routes, some overprotected, some adequately protected, some poorly protected. If you want an all gear route, closely spaced bolts, a world class fright fest, or anything in between, you can find it at Red Rocks. Maybe we can all just get along.
Ultimately, I think what makes this book unique and valuable is what it says to the average climber about adventure. I sometimes wax nostalgic for the 1970s, when even many existing routes were largely a mystery and an adventure due to the scarcity of information available. Red Rock Odyssey reminds us that there is still plenty of adventure to be had right now simply by choosing paths less traveled, or taking a cue from Larry, by limiting ourselves to the tools available to the first ascent party. Just to repeat these dozen routes with modern gear would occupy most climbers for several months of Sundays, and enrich them immeasurably. Pick up a copy of this book and celebrate the history, experience, and rewards of Red Rocks traditional climbing.
John Vawter
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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May 22, 2004 - 05:29pm PT
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Thanks for the well thought-out and written review, John. You should consider sumbitting it to the magazines. I look forward to seeing this book.
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funkness
Boulder climber
So,Ca.
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May 23, 2004 - 11:41pm PT
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I'll definately be picking up a copy. I hope there's some recognition in there for the bold RR climbers Paul Van Betten, Sal Mamusia, Richard Harrison and others.
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steelmnkey
climber
Phoenix, AZ
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May 24, 2004 - 12:50pm PT
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I believe this book predates the climbers you mention by a few years. I recall Richard Harrison being mentioned (at least), but they don't get full treatment in this book. I think there might be a second volume in the works that deals with the "next wave" of routes and climbers.
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Scary Larry
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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May 27, 2004 - 11:22am PT
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Hey Funkness- steelmnkey beat me to it, but this book is limited in scope to the 1970's. There is a good story about Harrison and John Long onthe second ascent of Jubilant Song in 1972. The 1980's were the big decade when Harrison and his friends were responsible for a magnificent array of impressive and inspiring routes. Volume 2 is still a question mark, but there are a lot of good stories...
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steelmnkey
climber
Phoenix, AZ
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May 27, 2004 - 11:48am PT
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Come on Larry! Go for that second volume!!!! We'd all love to see it!! BTW: The first one is awesome. Nice Job.
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