Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 27, 2018 - 01:03pm PT
|
Note: actually 42.5" wide
Ten years ago, I advised Luke on his first Runout portaledges, which were based on the proven A5 Alpine Double portaledge, previously made by A5 Adventures from 1987-1999. This is the size I used for 18 days on Great Trango Tower. Luke added his own features and craft to the project, and has been making this light and compact design ever since. Last month, I visitied Luke at his Fruita shop, and we collaborated and created the first D4 Alpine Double, with the D4 curved tube corners, super rigid and light hybrid-diameter D4 frame, and D4’s new patent pending “D4 Bullet Joiners”, which make assembly of the ledge “smooth as butter”. Very proud to be working with great craftspeople.
More details forthcoming on the Handbuilt Alliance project, as Runout Customs joins along with Durango Sewing Solutions and Tufa Climbing and others. Also looking for recommendations of other small manufacturers who design and craft their own gear and are interested in collaboration.
—John Middendorf
|
|
Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
|
Jun 27, 2018 - 06:41pm PT
|
Cool!
|
|
deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2018 - 11:44am PT
|
There are some details on the new joiners on the Trapezium page on http://bigwallgear.com
Cheers
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Jun 28, 2018 - 08:52pm PT
|
Deucey, first thing I noticed was the joiners.
BEEF and beyond chamfered.
Very impressive innovation to the ledge.
|
|
Don Paul
Social climber
Denver CO
|
|
Can anyone explain why NONE of the pipeline protesters suspended from the bridge in Vancouver have portaledges? If anyone needs a marketing idea to sell portaledges, these people could sure use some. Here is some "live" commentary from the bridge to explain what it's about:
https://www.facebook.com/mhudema/videos/2279033535456501/
|
|
nature
climber
Boulder, CO
|
|
Awesome work! Always top of the line!
|
|
deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2018 - 04:28pm PT
|
Would love to support the protesters, perhaps if anyone is in touch, please let them know.
I supply the Tasmanian Tarkine protestors as many free portaledges as they need. The Climbing Zine will have an article about it in the next issue. The Tarkine is magic place and senselessly being destroyed.
Patagonia just did a film on the Tarkine (I am actually in some of the images in a yellow rain jacket).
[Click to View YouTube Video]
|
|
Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
|
|
Damn Deuce, just when I think I couldn’t be any more impressed by your accomplishments …
Thanks for putting that on my radar.
|
|
deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2018 - 01:03pm PT
|
Only one left from Luke’s first batch of 10 D4 Alpine Doubles. These will be ready for the Fall Yosemite season.
One of them going with Thomas Huber to Pakistan for the true test!
Ps, by the way, the width is 42.5” not 41.5” as the picture states, my mistake.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
I am taking the ledge to Pakistan for Thomas Huber. He plans on using it on the North Face of Latok 1...a test for sure! I may use it on the long flight to Islamabad...better than coach...now I’ll just have to find a place to set it up. You don’t suppose they'll have a problem if I hand drill into the fuselage...or do you?
|
|
Jim Clipper
Gym climber
from the ground up
|
|
I don't have enough experience to even know if it's a relevant question. Handling of the tubes in cold/wet conditions, or with gloves? Any way to make them "grippier"? Longitudinal fluting? Works in bike frames I think.
Fine work, nice links. Looks like a fun bounce house!
|
|
deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2018 - 04:46am PT
|
Jim, not really sure about your question, in terms of grippier tubes. Expedition wise, you have a lot of metal gear for climbing, and its generally cold and often wet--gloves are a plus!
EDIT: maybe you are talking about setting up and taking down. Portaledges have always required some practice to deploy and take down quickly and neatly. Some pick it up right away, some it takes longer (some don’t even bother and just haul ledges assembled the whole way up the wall). But the new D4 curved-corner design is heaps easier to set up than the old (A5) block corner design, some say 10x easier. Still takes a bit of practice, as you are basically constructing a rigid frame, but same challenge as any gear in an expedition setting, where hands are cold and numb, and tools are wet and slippery. Cheers
|
|
Jim Clipper
Gym climber
from the ground up
|
|
|
Jul 10, 2018 - 08:28am PT
|
Thanks for the reply. It was a serious question, but also likely less than relevant. You have the school credits, and real world experience to know what is b.s.
Milled gates? It looks like you are using more readily available manufacturing techniques, just wondering if there are more diverse materials available these days too?
Briefly, Google: Colagno SLX tubing. There must be data out there.
https://lytepoles.com/product/fluted-round-straight-aluminum-poles/
The idea of a ledge made from light poles has a certain appeal... most likely aesthetic only.
However naive, I admire your contributions to climbing. I couldn't hold a candle to weldit...
|
|
| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!