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| Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
vervthethird
Trad climber
Whistler, BC
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 15, 2018 - 11:31pm PT
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Hi - I’m wondering where the best places are for Portaledge setup on the Nose to stay out of the way for NIADers. Most specifically between sickle and dolt for our day 1. I was thinking either at dolt hole (I assume NIADs go the lower route into stovelegs) or the rap route beside the stove legs, but I’m only guessing from the topo. Is there a likelihood of people rapping overnight on that route?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Jun 15, 2018 - 11:46pm PT
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jun 16, 2018 - 01:34pm PT
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Belay after great roof is one of the most spectacular portaledge bivys on El Cap. Part of my guided Nose routine back in the day...
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 16, 2018 - 01:42pm PT
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The Nose is an easy 2 hour romp now.
Only caveman climbers bivy on it ......
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jun 16, 2018 - 02:18pm PT
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just take longer breaks!
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jun 16, 2018 - 05:44pm PT
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First day go to Dolt or el Cap Tower, then to “the edge” hanging bivy below pancake flake, then to camp 5.
The D4 Trapezium will be a great tool for this strategy. http://www.bigwallgear.com/d4-trapezium.html
Blatant plug, but really true!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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Jun 16, 2018 - 06:22pm PT
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^ thats some serious dedication from the hospital bed (or real close to it).
Now we know the secret of success..
Personally I recommend setting up your portaledge for the night at every possible opportunity...thus your ascent should take about 3 years. You can make even Pete jealous
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jun 16, 2018 - 09:31pm PT
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^^^So many actual projects on hold,so
still good to peruse what’s happening on Supertopo in the wee hours of medicated delirium...
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jun 17, 2018 - 02:43am PT
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Yes, massive appendix operation.
Think I went a few days with burst appendix, and the damage caused 5 “ of my ilium and colon to also be damaged, and had to be cut out as well. Apparently a big mess.
We had just finished a trip to the southwest (tr here: http://www.deuce4.net/web/DesertTour2018.pdf )
My wife and kids had gotten E. coli sickness from Calf Creek waterfall pool in Escalante on Memorial Day (we had been warned by the rangers, but swam there anyway). Theirs all cleared up in a week. Just as theirs was ending I felt sick and exhausted. I thought I was getting a late onset of it (the initial symptoms were similar), but finally, after 5 days of increasing and non-stop pain, I knew it was something worse. Feel dumb not to have recognized it sooner.
Probably in hospital for a week, docs say there are high chance of other abscesses (infections) due to the mess that was in there. Didn’t really believe I still had my old high pain threshholds, I suppose. Just prior to the operation, it was some pretty hefty pain.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 17, 2018 - 07:39am PT
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The trunk of your car! The nose needs to be a portaledge-free zone!
Edit; Jeez! Duecy! Get better!
Maybe it true; you never Can go back!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jun 17, 2018 - 09:02am PT
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Get well Duece. My son had a similar problem at age 14. Went to the doctor twice and they said it was probably a stomach bug. He also has a high pain tolerance which probably threw them off. He walked around for about a week with a burst appendix. Waiting during his operation was the scariest part of my life. He seems no worse for the wear now.
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