blisters under OR crack gloves

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 21 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
ghisino

climber
Italy/France
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 8, 2018 - 02:14am PT
hi everyone,

i'm currently using a wooden hand crack to train for a route i'd like to redpoint in early summer.

although i prefer tape for performance, for training purposes i find commercial crack gloves when i train, to save time and tape.

unfortunately i found out that when i try to target deliberately hard moves, like foot swings, footless "campus" moves an anything where i am going to failure, i get gobies under the glove. These look a little like exploded blisters: the outer skin layer peels off in circular patterns and i'm left with the pinky inner layer (no blood, but it does spit serum)

i wonder if it is a problem of skin vs synthetic leather abrasion.

anyone has some tip or trick to avoid the issue and/or speed up the recovery?
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Mar 8, 2018 - 03:27am PT
Gloves that fit better? The basic problem seems to be that you skin is a little too tender. Maybe some easy crack climbing without tape to toughen it up?
NegativeK

climber
Chicago
Mar 8, 2018 - 04:53am PT
My OR gloves did this to me as well, likely due to a bad fit.
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Mar 8, 2018 - 05:52am PT
I've used a number of gloves including the OR ones. The OR gloves are too thin and offer little in the way of grip or protection. Mine ended up in the garbage.
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
Mar 8, 2018 - 06:57am PT
I had the same problem and started taping the hands before putting the gloves on. (Just the sensitive areas).

For the abrasions I use Liqid Bandaid, aka New-Skin. It works like a miracle.

Good luck!

Moose
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Sacramento, CA
Mar 8, 2018 - 06:59am PT
Ocun gloves donít seem to have this problem.

EDIT: cartoon re-enactment of Moosetape covering his sensitive areas

Tape is aid
Tape is aid
Credit: Jebus H Bomz
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
Mar 8, 2018 - 07:06am PT
having also relinquished my dignity, I can affirm that the Ocuns work better for me, too.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Sacramento, CA
Mar 8, 2018 - 07:08am PT
Welcome to the club, Cowboy!
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Mar 8, 2018 - 08:58am PT
Ocuns are great except in thin cracks
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 8, 2018 - 09:10am PT
I tape for training in the gym and when the rock might bite... you can tape in a way that allows you to reuse the tape gloves if the expense or the possibility of environmental ruination is anathema to you.

Never had the blister problem, but you might want to review your technique, generally gobies are from your hands moving in the cracks as you crank on them, don't do that.

If tape is aid, I'm not sure what crack gloves are.
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Mar 8, 2018 - 09:12am PT
Clean aid?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Mar 8, 2018 - 09:56am PT
seeing your bro wearing crack gloves is like seeing your bro wearing fishnets and a teddy. just nod and move on. the world has changed.
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
Mar 8, 2018 - 10:27am PT
Thatís about right, Jebus, since I use knee an elbow orthopedic sleeves (nothing wrong with my joints, just to protect the skin), and I wear a helmet too. Yeah, and belay glasses when belaying.

All I need is a Da Brim!

Moosegeek
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Mar 8, 2018 - 10:30am PT
Glue on gobies for that vintage look
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Sacramento, CA
Mar 8, 2018 - 10:48am PT
Now thatís the truth! ^^^^
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Mar 8, 2018 - 10:54am PT
Learn to make tape gloves that you can re-use. The ones in my pack have been used for a dozen gym visits (admittedly for only a few crack laps each time). At $3/roll you can go through a LOT of tape gloves before poorly fitting commercial ones will start making financial sense.
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
Mar 8, 2018 - 11:37am PT
I hate to say this, but, have you tried wearing a layer of TAPE under the gloves? LOL . . .
xCon

Social climber
909
Mar 8, 2018 - 12:49pm PT
you could go with moleskin...
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
Mar 8, 2018 - 12:52pm PT
I hate to say this, but, have you tried wearing a layer of TAPE under the gloves? LOL . . .

Reeotch, that's what I do. See my first post here.

Moose
ghisino

climber
Italy/France
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2018 - 01:36pm PT
Learn to make tape gloves that you can re-use.


i know how to, but for many reasons (mostly gaining 30 secs to close) them) i loved the idea of a ready-made velcro-strap product for training.


btw the or gloves feel good to me...except for this little issue and maybe a little too much stretch. I've seen it happen to ocun users as well, and in a very similar situation (working moves on a a famous italian roof crack)
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