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Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic |
ghisino
climber
Italy/France
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 8, 2018 - 02:14am PT
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hi everyone,
i'm currently using a wooden hand crack to train for a route i'd like to redpoint in early summer.
although i prefer tape for performance, for training purposes i find commercial crack gloves when i train, to save time and tape.
unfortunately i found out that when i try to target deliberately hard moves, like foot swings, footless "campus" moves an anything where i am going to failure, i get gobies under the glove. These look a little like exploded blisters: the outer skin layer peels off in circular patterns and i'm left with the pinky inner layer (no blood, but it does spit serum)
i wonder if it is a problem of skin vs synthetic leather abrasion.
anyone has some tip or trick to avoid the issue and/or speed up the recovery?
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Gloves that fit better? The basic problem seems to be that you skin is a little too tender. Maybe some easy crack climbing without tape to toughen it up?
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NegativeK
climber
Chicago
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My OR gloves did this to me as well, likely due to a bad fit.
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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I've used a number of gloves including the OR ones. The OR gloves are too thin and offer little in the way of grip or protection. Mine ended up in the garbage.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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having also relinquished my dignity, I can affirm that the Ocuns work better for me, too.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Ocuns are great except in thin cracks
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I tape for training in the gym and when the rock might bite... you can tape in a way that allows you to reuse the tape gloves if the expense or the possibility of environmental ruination is anathema to you.
Never had the blister problem, but you might want to review your technique, generally gobies are from your hands moving in the cracks as you crank on them, don't do that.
If tape is aid, I'm not sure what crack gloves are.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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seeing your bro wearing crack gloves is like seeing your bro wearing fishnets and a teddy. just nod and move on. the world has changed.
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throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Glue on gobies for that vintage look
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Learn to make tape gloves that you can re-use. The ones in my pack have been used for a dozen gym visits (admittedly for only a few crack laps each time). At $3/roll you can go through a LOT of tape gloves before poorly fitting commercial ones will start making financial sense.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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I hate to say this, but, have you tried wearing a layer of TAPE under the gloves? LOL . . .
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ghisino
climber
Italy/France
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2018 - 01:36pm PT
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Learn to make tape gloves that you can re-use.
i know how to, but for many reasons (mostly gaining 30 secs to close) them) i loved the idea of a ready-made velcro-strap product for training.
btw the or gloves feel good to me...except for this little issue and maybe a little too much stretch. I've seen it happen to ocun users as well, and in a very similar situation (working moves on a a famous italian roof crack)
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Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic |
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