mexico in early april

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supafly

Trad climber
vancouver, bc
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 5, 2017 - 06:34pm PT
I am turning 40 in April and am planning a dudes trip out to somewhere warm - Mexico has come up.

Where would be the place to fly to where we could climb mellow 5.6/5.7 routes - maybe with the coast nearby (thinking Baja). It will be a super chill trip, if not Mex then maybe Jtree.

Or any other suggestions for warmth in April with good cragging or 5 pitchish routes.
Contractor

Boulder climber
CA
Oct 5, 2017 - 06:56pm PT
Oh, you cheap Canadian's love a devalued Peso! There is no mellow climbing close to the coast in Mexico that I know of.

San Diego- the only place on the temperate West coast where you're not forced to climb dirt (we have nice Granite faces and boulders).

Mexico is right across the border where you save some Canadian $$$ and purchase a fine tapestry of dogs playing pool for pittance.

There are great beaches, year round surf and great Mexican food.

Taquitz is two hours, J-Tree is three hours and Redrocks is 6 hours away. Fortunately you don't have to drive through LA to get to any of these places.

And we're classy...

supafly

Trad climber
vancouver, bc
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2017 - 07:21pm PT
Hey Contractor! Cool - give me the beta on San Diego.. ideally I would have liked to have my credit card details stolen from the car hire company for the authentic experience.. but hey! You can't have everything.
Contractor

Boulder climber
CA
Oct 5, 2017 - 07:36pm PT
Ha ha! If you head this way I'll get you some beta. ☮️
Juan Maderita

Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
Oct 5, 2017 - 07:44pm PT
La Misión (AKA: "Valle Azteca" a name made up by gringo developers) is on the coast between Rosarito and Ensenada. La Misión is a village a couple miles inland, between Tijuana and Ensenada (1 hour south of the border). Short hike to steep basalt cliffs with sport bolted routes. The 25 year old hardware is currently being replaced with stainless steel. Weather should be mild. Tee shirts to light jackets, as it is coastal and faces north. Lots of restaurants and touristy stuff to do along that coast.

The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Oct 5, 2017 - 07:49pm PT
And we're classy...

Hey

Speak for yourself Contractor

But seriously, Baja doesn't hold much climbing near the beach, easy stuff anyway. I think there is potential outside of Cabo San Lucas, but it's undeveloped as far as I know.

SD has loads of high quality granite, and great surf and beaches, much more crowded than Baja tho. The surf that is - crags are empty, everybody's in the gym sizing up each other's moves
Contractor

Boulder climber
CA
Oct 5, 2017 - 08:01pm PT
F*#k- knew the welcoming committee and resident spell checker was gonna to ring in!

Seriously though...it's great here!
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Oct 5, 2017 - 09:01pm PT
Credit: The Warbler

Eagle Peak

Did I mention incredible numbers of gorgeous women?
brotherbbock

climber
Alta Loma, CA
Oct 6, 2017 - 11:21am PT
Go to Potrero Chico.

It's not by the coast but there are shitlaods of routes of which mostly all are bolted.

You can climb 800ft bolted 5.7's all day.

We went down to climb Time Wave Zero which is 23 pitches of sport climbing.

Happy 40th!

My 40th is in February and we got a Nicaragua surf trip planned...
Ken M

Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
Oct 6, 2017 - 11:29am PT
If you end up in SD, one of my favorite places to stay is the Hosteling International at Point Loma. Nice area, nice people.
gruzzy

Social climber
socal
Oct 7, 2017 - 10:44am PT
Dont get stuck behind the wall
supafly

Trad climber
vancouver, bc
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2017 - 08:29am PT
brotherblock: I thought potrero chico was mainly harder grades.. 10's and up?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 14, 2017 - 09:22am PT
Weren’t these shots of Isabelle Patissier taken near Cabo?
Looks like OK climbing to me!

WTF?  No harness?
WTF? No harness?
Credit: Reilly
Credit: Reilly
drF

Trad climber
usa
Oct 14, 2017 - 05:46pm PT
^^^^
Vintage

TFPU ;-)
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Oct 14, 2017 - 05:58pm PT
That granite at Cabo makes josh choss look like the finest MCR stone. There might be some decent stone on the sea stacks, but tricky access, probably corroded hardware, and I don't think the few established routes are easy.

The first shot is not Cabo, or at least nowhere I've seen down there

Here's some better Baja, not many easy routes though :

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1358530/Catavi-a-La-Mysteriosa-Baja-Beauty-Kevin-Worrall-Climbing-95
1 1/2 hrs to ocean

Some San Diego :

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/eagle-peak/107008184
2 - 2 1/2 hrs beach to crag, with 45 min hike

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/corte-madera/106129961
2 1/2 - 3 hrs beach to crag, with 1hr 15 min hike

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/valley-of-the-moon/105946815
2 1/2 -3 hrs beach to crag, with 1/2 hr hike

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/mission-gorge/105790250
30 - 45 min beach to crag with 10 min hike

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/mount-woodson/105791148
45 - 90 min beach to boulders with 5 - 45 minute hike

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/el-cajon-mountain/105793290
2 - 3 hrs beach to crag, with 1 1/2 - 2 hr hike, 2000 ft elevation gain on approach

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