Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 12, 2017 - 02:31pm PT
Hey everyone! I did a quick bit of searching for information regarding the land of the off width cracks but didn't find any concrete information on gear recommendations. I'm a longtime slingshot climber that's done a handful of sport route and only enough trad routes to count on a hand with a couple blown off fingers. I've got a fairly standard rack:
Hexes up to about a fist size
Stoppers up to... 12?
Black diamond cams from .5 - 3
A few smallish metolious cams.
For those of you who have climbed the Woo (or similar off-width areas,) do you have any gear suggestions that I should be prepared to pick up? Any recommended routes for a learning trad'er?
Tape. If you're new to wide, and to coarse rock, you'll want it to keep the bloodshed to a minimum. Also ample beer supply. Oh, and you'll need some bigger pieces than a #3, or don't plan to fall. Ideally you'd have 2 each #4 and #5, but you can skate by with one and keep moving it up. But DEFINITELY don't fall while you're doing that. ;-)
Big cams ( generally not more than four of the same size, the cliffs are short) tape, armor.
Sportiva solution pants with knee pads on the outside seem to hold up well.
High tops.though there is a school of thought ( Odub, wide boyz) that low tops force you to be more precise in your footwork. My skin is stretched too thin, and I already have too much scar tissue for that shit😎
What Jaybro said. Most routes are really short, relative to Devils Tower or Indian Creek. Mark Jenkins and I did a day on the Nautilus a few year's back where where we placed three pieces on every route we did. And they were adequately protected, mostly. But don't go up on Mainstreet without a couple of 4's and 5's or you'll be soloing.
Learn to tape, at least until your technique is so good you don't shred your hands. Long pants and kneepads too for the same reason.
And earplugs for the incessant freeway roar that you just can't escape.
You guys are all awesome. I'd heard a friend mention knee pads and thought they were joking- I will seriously consider some because I really, really like my knees!
Loads of tape, roger. I am doubled on size 1 - 3 cams and will have a single set of 4 - 6. Money is stretched a bit thin seeing as this is a honeymoon trip (and a lot of money has been funneled into the wedding and backpacking gear following our 3 days of Woo,) otherwise I'd love to grab a couple extra cams for the trip.