Matterhorn - Cervino

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Mountainlucky

Mountain climber
Horebeke, Belgium
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 28, 2016 - 01:50am PT
Hey Mountaineers,

Would like to try Matterhorn - Cervino spring 2017 (June - July).
Preferably valley-top-valley in 20 Hrs via Hornli-Hutte-track.
Looking for suitable 'buddy (ies)'.

Just give a cry or Ctc me whatever way (Supertopo, Facebook, Linked-In,...)if interested.

Mountainlucky

Ben VAN HECKE
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Nov 28, 2016 - 04:29am PT
CHECK YOUR EGO, PICK A RELIABLE OBJECTIVE NOT A PILE OF CRAP

That is a terrible idea

Check the death toll

The Rock is GARBAGE,

Going up is easy and not worth the effort

THE WORST OF THE THING IS GETTING OFF IT

MOST SEASONED CLIMBERS HAVE LEARNED THE LESSON

A NICE TO LOOK AT STUPID TO CLIMB PILE OF SHJT

*Y,G,D*
Yer' Gonna Die.

Reilly, with the greatest respect; I love your posts and photographs!
But with that respect I bring to the person above from a country I love Belgium,
this is his 1st post.
So I felt a certain level of concern for all who might buy in.
The ,YGD, yo know what that means in both the real and spiritual sense.

As to the Thin cord?
( I thought it was known to be 6.6 Boat or barge line made of Manila, (cotton hemp?)
The way of the world way back then,
the pointless struggle that was the life of the 'have nothing to loose'
So might as well try to be famous dead or alive, 1st ascentionists
"What were they thinking?":
We're glad to have any rope.
&
a climber back then knew
DO NOT LET GO DO NOT FALL.

Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 28, 2016 - 07:33am PT
The rock isn't that bad - been on far worse. Liongrat, aka Italian Ridge, is far less trafficked.
It's also an experience to do something that was done 150 years ago by true badasses.

THE ROPE Me mum's clothes line was prolly equally stout. It might be 8mm of manila.
What were they thinking?
Watermann2

Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
Nov 28, 2016 - 07:46am PT
Good Morning Mr Mountain, then, have climbed the Matterhorn from the two normal routes (HORNLY and LION) on this mountain that is among the most beautiful in the world: I agree with Mr. GNOME on the rock, absolutely, except in rare cases not good ( I hope to make myself understood), however, it is always a great adventure, and then the Hörnli ridge is very panomaromica going up and to the right we can in some section, see the legendary and famous north wall, spectacular !!! I did not even climb the classic Schmidt, but I hope before I die to climb the north face (Schmidt route) My advice is to go logically trained, but then not go on Saturday or Sunday (too many people threatening shock boulders, stones rush) Absolutely not advise the month of August, (too many people). If you want to know something else, say well, I will try to be her as useful as possible (the report of the Hörnli, I recommend a wonderful book (I) nelquale book there is also the relationship very well done in English as well of the way, now I try , then the public Found: https://www.amazon.it/grande-libro-4000-normali-classiche/dp/8897299571/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480347688&sr=8-1&keywords=4000+alpi

However, I wish him well, and we salute you, if you want to know more, please contact me. Many Greetings
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Nov 28, 2016 - 08:10am PT
Mountainlucky, there are many 'threads' , chapters here on the Mountain,
I will try to add some 'links in Blue for you to check.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/TR-Whymper-et-al-were-amazing-Matterhorn/t344n.html
There are more with much more information. ,,.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1592762/The-Next-Great-Randisi-Thread-Matterhorn-History-HA-HA
&
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=478875&msg=2582157#msg2582157
&
http://www.ski-zermatt.com/features/zermatt-live-cams.html
&




Now,

Good to see you posting Watermann2!
That, What you said was fully clear.

Mountain lucky, This link shows who you are hearing from

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2875277&msg=2875279#msg2875279

Time is never neutral.

Time spent on Mnt Objectives that only allow short windows of weather.

Places where the long line of others may get in your way, change your time

And well known death Trapps with very many Dangers.

Yes a beautiful Mountain
( For give me but the English word is ) Archetype
The definition of what a climbers objective looks like .
The history of the good climbers who have died on its sides
Bring me to make this Warning.
Watermann2

Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
Nov 28, 2016 - 08:28am PT
Good Morning Mr.Gnome ofthe Diabase, I agree with what he says completely, the Matterhorn is not primarily a mountain to be underestimated, even for the two easiest ways (Leone and Hornli) Then, the sudden change of time (weather) Never forget that only on this mountain we have about 550 Mountainers DEAD: the great HANS KAMMERLANDER, (I have the book) when he made the 4 major RIDGE in less than 24 hours (LEONE_ HORNLI_ ZMUTT_ FURGGEN) said (in his book): the Matterhorn is un'ammasso of piled stones (a cluster of mobile stones) I apologize, I can not exactly translate, write it in Italian (The Matterhorn è un'AMMASSO DI PIETRE ACCATASTATE UNA SU L'ALTRA ).
Many Greetings.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Nov 30, 2016 - 03:58am PT
Mountainlucky, it Seems you aren't a talkative climber that's fine !
Here at the Taco Stand*
one can find help and abuse in equal measure

*( *that is a fun pun, son, Taco Stand, the opposite order of the initials of Super Topo)
from Bald Eagle Productions, latest share:
looking for a rock climbers paradise in the Swiss Alps then here is a short video from a trip to the premier alpine rock destination of the Salbitschijen, near Göschenen in Central Switzerland.

The Salbitschijen is renowned for it's immaculate granite and 3 looooong classic ridges, namely the Ostgrat, Sudgrat + Westgrat and my buddies and I were lucky enough to climb the super-classic 16 pitch 550M South Ridge on a great day of weather. The Sudgrat is graded around UK HVS or about 5.9 in US dollers and is often described as one of the best and most beautiful climbs of its type + grade in the whole of the Alps, a description I now totally agree with. As a comparison it is similar but a bit harder and more sustained than the beautiful North Ridge on the Piz Badile!

Anyway the entertainment was filmed so for anyone interested in viewing a short HD video featuring the flora + fauna around the Salbithütte, time lapses, views to the outrageous Westgrat, big towers, super-exposed ridges + giddyfying drops, culminating in the photogenic Gipfelnadel summit pinnacle then have a cheeky peek at the embedded vid. For some strange reason it does not seem to be allowing full screen mode but just click on the "Watch on You Tube" icon and you can easily view full screen there..
[Click to View YouTube Video]



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