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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 12, 2016 - 02:34pm PT
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Recently climbed some of new Dan’s routes on Fifi Buttress. Looking around there at not typical to Yosemite type of granite all with small corners and dihedrals - I realize that this Buttress almost solely [as far as I know] developed by McDevitt probably in last ~20 years [? ] Every other corner has some of his routes and I said to my friend that between us we can rename Fifi Buttress to McDevitt Pinnacle™.
Yes, this tread is appreciation for Dan’s hard work and passion to find, create and share his new routes in the Valley. He is one of most prolific route developer last 20 years in the park. Modest, supportive, willing to share fire for climbing. He is probably taking a lot of sh#t from potential bolt choppers and whiners - but continue to make his routes safe, because climbing for him is not about potential broken ankles, but about moving up with enjoyment and grace.
He manage to place new routes at so many places: Arch, Cookie, Pat and Jack , Finger Licking area, Shultz Ridge, Church Bowl , Chappell wall, Lower Cathedral, “McDevitt Pinnacle™” and this is only from top of my head.
His taste for routes goes from hard crimps routes [ which unfortunately I can not even try] to perfect cracks , but in most cases it is nice mix of face and crack climbing.
His Yosemite classic routes vary in difficulties : The Great Escape, Voyager, Big Easy, Energizer, MoreMental than Mantel , Mac Daddy , Romulan Freebird etc….
His new routes coming and quickly become crowded and appreciated..
Go Go Dan!, C’mon! Allez, Allez! Давай,давай!
Edit: I realize that I do not have any of good Dan's photos. If you have please post some.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Oct 12, 2016 - 03:42pm PT
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I met him for the first time this past summer out a Camp 9.
We had friends in common and I tried to ply a Walt story or two out of him, but the thing that was remarkable was that he was going around to different climbers there in the dirt, gathering birthday wishes and signatures for his daughter Mikhaela (sp?)
It was such a cool gesture--not just for his daughter, but to reach out to ordinary folks who were out getting after it just as much as the "big names" that had also signed the book.
Plus, didn't he fight off a mutant squirrel under Midnight Lightning BITD?
Oh, and his winter wall shots are top shelf rad!
Class act that Danimal!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 12, 2016 - 04:20pm PT
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Number of good routes he has put up all over the place is mindblowing! THANK YOU!
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yosemite 5.9
climber
santa cruz
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Oct 12, 2016 - 05:52pm PT
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He taught me everything I know about climging. He is the only guide to hold the bottom ends of a rappel rope as I descended on it, so that he could pull on the rope to stop me if necessary. That is an indication of his safety awareness. But he also challenged me relentlessly, at an appropriate very aggressive pace. He taught me to climb 510.c. We ascended the slab above Reed's Pinnacle one day. There are only about 498 posts on this forum regarding him.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Oct 12, 2016 - 05:55pm PT
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nothing but admiration and appreciation for the badass imagery dude posts here. oh hyeah the climbing thing too
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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Oct 12, 2016 - 06:22pm PT
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Oct 12, 2016 - 08:43pm PT
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Oh hell yes. This is a worthy thread.
We've done three or maybe four of his routes on the Fifi now, and damn are they fun. Each bound to be very popular. It's like Alexey said: nothing but respect and gratitude for the tons of work on ready display, not just putting in bomber hardware, but also the cleaning!
The Fifi is destined to be one of the Valley's most loved spots for high quality, low commitment multi-pitch routes. That's largely a result of Dan and crew's hard work. It's a gift and I look forward to meeting the man to say thanks.
Edit:
He is probably taking a lot of sh#t from potential bolt choppers and whiners...
Eh. Valley climbing at its best and proudest, imo, will always hew to traditional ground-up, minimalist ethics. To me that's the highest standard in trad climbing and I hope the Valley will always be a stronghold of that style.
But that doesn't mean I didn't have a blast on each McD route I've done, and I would never agree with chopping his work. While I do think that there is a best style, different styles have coexisted in Yosemite for ages. I've thought it over and I'm guess I'm not pure enough to get pissy about it. Instead, I climb the routes and have fun.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 12, 2016 - 10:51pm PT
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Always fun hanging with Dan
A couple weeks ago hanging out at his house.
 Eric
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
The real McCoy from somewhere over the rainbow...
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Oct 13, 2016 - 08:04am PT
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Super quality routes, and the more I look at the name of who put up " this sweet route " more often than not I find it is a mcdevit. His impact on the valley and tuolumne alone blow my mind. Cheers !
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Oct 13, 2016 - 09:51am PT
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I haven't met him, but I have climbed some of his routes. Kudos for the effort and thoughtfulness that have gone into them. Thank you!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Oct 13, 2016 - 10:12am PT
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Dan is a good Man. I'm proud to call him my friend.
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Tony Puppo
climber
Bishop
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Oct 13, 2016 - 10:27am PT
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Pretty handy with a nailgun and saw as well.
Yea buddy
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Oct 13, 2016 - 10:28am PT
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Bump for Dan!
Best D&P
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Oct 13, 2016 - 11:10pm PT
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The real deal.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Aug 18, 2018 - 06:10am PT
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Bump for my old friend Dan,hope you are well.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Nutty
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Aug 18, 2018 - 07:36am PT
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Luv to see his climbing photos some of the best on ST!
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Aug 18, 2018 - 07:53am PT
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Dan, what you been up to? Hope you’re strong and well! Love your posts.
Best regards, D&P
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| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
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