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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 5, 2016 - 01:35pm PT
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Planning to take Goodrich up to the Oasis on Sunday. It looks like after some trickery, we can just rap the route. Anyone been up there recently?
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/goodrich-to-the-oasis/107674841
The old Reid guide shows some way to get to some downclimb descent off to the right, but I've never heard of anyone doing that before.
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couchmaster
climber
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Don't know about a downclimb, but I can say that last go round on Lucifer's Ledge, we rapped it with a single 60M. And survived. It was so ugly though. I use to like that route and have not been back since. Don't do that insanity, take 2 ropes. Have not made it from Goodrich as there always appears to be a water coarse that keeps me from even wanting to be going above the pinnacle. I always seem to be in Yos in early spring though, sigh...maybe someday. Last time from the Oasis we rapped Coonyard. (Again, 2 ropes)
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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There was a TR here from Zander and co. a few years back?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Planning to take Goodrich up to the Oasis on Sunday. It looks like after some trickery, we can just rap the route. Anyone been up there recently? 1. The best descent option is to rap the route back to the top of Goodrich Pinnacle, using 2 ropes. The starting point is chains one short easy bolted pitch up Galactic Hitchhiker from the Oasis access ledge - (17) on the above topo. One of the first anchors is slings on a flake; others are bolted. From Goodrich you can rap straight down, instead of rapping the route. There is one spot where you have to downclimb easy stuff to reach the next anchor.
2. Second best option is to use a Rohrer rap route which starts just right of the Oasis and goes down to Coonyard, then to the ground.
3. Third best option is to rap Angels to the Oasis, but you'll probably need a topo to do that.
The old Reid guide shows some way to get to some downclimb descent off to the right, but I've never heard of anyone doing that before. 4. Fourth best option is to do a lot of 4th and low 5th scrambling to Glacier Point Terrace, as described in the older guidebooks. It is a very long ways over to there! Then use the Rohrer rappel route over there. It requires 2 ropes and some of the stations are fully hanging. I did it 2.5 weeks ago and it's in good shape.
5. Fifth best option is to downclimb and rappel Glacier Point Terrace. The first pitch is a horrendous traverse squeezing behind trees and a 5.4 traverse on rock. Then rap and downclimb. Each anchor has at least one 3/8" bolt, but most have old slings.
Ascent options from The Oasis:
1. Galactic Hitchhiker - see above topo. Also possible to exit left to 3rd/4th class ground at several points - (22), (32).
2. The Hinterland. Partway up p18 on the above topo, traverse left and rappel. Then easily climb to U-Shaped Bowl and climb low(?) 5th class out its left side, or 5.8 squeeze up right side. Then 3rd/4th class ground to top.
3. Sacherer-Cochrane Direct. Roughly goes where Galactic Hitchhiker goes, but they didn't draw a topo or write a detailed description at the time.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Some SuperTopans retreated from below the Oasis a week ago. They ran out of daylight doing Angel's Approach. They rapped straight down the old Rohrer bolt route and didn't report any problems. I recall they said the rap stations are in good condition.
Perhaps one of them will chip in here.
Years ago I climbed Goodrich Pinnacle to the Oasis and rapped the Rohrer route. It was a grand adventure. Goodrich to Oasis doesn't get done often and when we did it clean protection was difficult to find but I managed it. It looks from Cliff's topo that a lot of bolts have been added. I was only climbing 5.9 at the time and managed it fine.
We also got benighted on the Oasis and it was a long trip down. Be sure you take headlamps and 2 ropes.
Except for some shivering, I'd think Midnight At The Oasis would be an adventure. Take bivvy sacks and plenty of water?
Clint: haven't the far right side down climbs been altered or even erased by rockfalls in recent years?
Again, recent beta would be helpful.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Why not continue up the Hinterland to the rim?
Option 5.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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How far is it to climb from the Oasis to Glacier Point? I seem to remember that Roper's green guide book said that it wasn't particularly difficult, because it was blocky, broken and shrubby.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Fred,
It looks from Clint's topo that a lot of bolts have been added. Yes, apparently the guys who climbed Galactic Hitchhiker may have thought they were bolting a slightly different line, but it seems they added bolts to the existing route.
haven't the far right side down climbs been altered or even erased by rockfalls in recent years?  1999-06-13 rockfall down Punch Bowl, which killed Peter Terbush - probably erased some bolts on Punch Bowl climbs, but likely did not erase 3rd/4th class climbing between The Oasis and Glacier Point Terrace.
2003-12-26 rockfall from Time Machine Wall, which hit some cabins in talus of Curry Village - is entirely right of Glacier Point Terrace - did not affect that climb (I climbed it 2.5 weeks ago; I do not recommend it due to the squeeze traverse behind trees....)
http://pubs.usgs.gov/ds/746/
P.S. There are various chain anchors for rapping from Angel's Approach, but they are not part of a Rohrer rappel route.
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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16 pitches on GPA! We want a TR!
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2016 - 02:48pm PT
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Thanks so much all.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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I have gone to and from the Oasis to Glacier Point Terrace before the big rockfall. Guido can probably tell you if it takes longer to get down via The Hinterland or via Glacier Point Terrace. It probably took us about two hours, at most, from the Oasis back down to the Ledge Trail (or what was left of it).
The start of the Glacier Point Terrace descent might be a bit tricky to find, but we had no trouble. You rap down a gully for one rap, then traverse to the west. The traverse was pretty obvious, and there was a painted arrow pointing right just to make sure we didn't miss it. After the traverse (essentially fourth class), we made a few raps down the ledge systems of the Glacier Point Terrace route to the ground. It was so long ago, though, that I don't remember what the anchors were for those raps. In any case, the Glacier Point Terrace route is substantially to the right of the rockfall area.
John
Edit: I should add that we did this descent in preference to rapping the Harding Route, which we ascended, and which would have involved many, many more raps.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Thanks for your recollection of the Glacier Point Terrace descent, John.
I didn't see a painted arrow at the traverse (2.5 weeks ago).
The topo in the Meyers/Reid guides was accurate in its description of the initial rappel and the "bushwhack" behind trees, then the slab traverse.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2016 - 09:30am PT
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Where does the Rohr Rap Route go from? And are there chains + modern 3/8" bolts?
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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I have done the descent from the Oasis using the Rohrer rap stations starting from where Coonyard to the Oasis tops out. It was eight, double 50m raps from there to the top of Monday Morning Slab and then an additional two rappels from there to the ground. We did the whole ten rappels in an hour so it can't be all that bad.
ps - I should add that if you are using 50m ropes there is one rappel(I believe it is the 2nd rap off of Coonyard Pinnacle, but I may be wrong) that is right on 50m in length so be careful!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Where does the Rohrer Rap Route go from? Like Bruce said, it's just east of Coonyard to Oasis.
So it starts just west of the Oasis.
3 weeks ago, I had planned to locate all its upper anchors and
make a photo overlay, but it took me longer than expected to climb
Glacier Point Terrace, so I didn't make it over there.
And are there chains + modern 3/8" bolts? Mostly, yes, from Roger's replacement in 2008 (starting with 2-3 above Coonyard).
The upper few anchors are still original, but they are strong and were built to last:
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