Hey Tollhouse Rock Locals...Talk to me about some routes...

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micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 23, 2016 - 09:46am PT
So I've been climbing at Tollhouse for 20 years now. I'd consider myself pretty much a local. But I seem to gravitate toward the same four or five routes.

The Traverse: Fantastic but man cannot live by bread alone.
Elephant Walk: Stellar but how many times can you do the same route?
Free And Easy: Great position...but a bit "easy."
Falling Star: That runout pitch 2 scares me these days
Nuts and Bolts: Good position but typical Tollhouse
Art Baker: That first pitch is jingus brah...and I heard somebody had an encounter with a rattlesnake on pitch two recently. Nawthanx yall.

So.....5.9 runout scares me so I tend not to venture onto Wandering Taoist or Balls.

Any other beta on some good routes I'm overlooking?

What is Hang Em High Like? Is the runout stuff (x) rated or frightning?
What is The Headwall like? Haven't been up that route since the 1990's. I really don't want to climb scared. Any firsthand beta?


Credit: micronut

Help a brother out! The evenings and mornings are begging for adventure!!

Scott
Serious replies only please <br/>
Serious replies only please

Credit: micronut


Dingus Milktoast

Trad climber
Minister of Moderation, Fatcrackistan
Jun 23, 2016 - 09:59am PT
Art Baker Memorial seep?

I did United Express many, many moons ago. Thought it was good. I doubt I could do it now though.

Always liked Balls, did that one a few times.

That's all I got!

DMT
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 23, 2016 - 10:23am PT
I didn't find the runout sections of Wandering Taoist all that scary. The hardest sections (for me, anyway) were well-protected.

John

P.S. Thanks for the post. It reminded me that I need to call your office to make an appointment to get started on fixing and removing a few things. See you Monday at noon!
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Jun 23, 2016 - 10:33am PT
Not to hump DMT's leg but United Express is great and its neighbor Desperado is awesome as well.

Hang em High I thought was really fun but I do not remember any runout that scared me...but i'm not saying it didn't happen, just can't remember lol. I think the crux was not too far off the first belay.
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Jun 23, 2016 - 11:14am PT
You gotta do Wandering Taoist. It is hard for the grade, but you don't feel like you are going to get hurt if you fall.

You making Shuteye this weekend?
Eric Beck

Sport climber
Bishop, California
Jun 23, 2016 - 12:26pm PT
Club Clovis, a 6 bolt 10b sport route. Definitely not scary, perfect rock. Did this in 97, not sure I could still do it. One can tr the adjacent route, Power Play off the same anchors. We didn't do this.
Nanobody

Trad climber
Fresno, CA
Jun 23, 2016 - 01:20pm PT
Speaking of Tollhouse, anyone know what is going on with all the brush clearing, and road repairs on top of Tollhouse? The road is so well graded you could drive a Prius to the top now, and a lots of manzanita has been cleared out.

The bolted 5.10b bolted to the left of Elephant walk is somewhat fun, much easier than 10b IMHO, feels about 5.9. Very well protected, no runout horror fest.
Climberdude

Trad climber
Clovis, CA
Jun 23, 2016 - 01:24pm PT
The Forest Service cleared the brush and graded the road as a fire break. I was there when they were doing this and was talking to the bulldozer operators.
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Jun 23, 2016 - 02:33pm PT
They are all good!

-The Direct

 Marvin's Mantle

to name a few not already mentioned.
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Jun 23, 2016 - 04:07pm PT
I fell as I was reaching up to clip the first bolt on Wandering Taoist. It's a clean slide down the slab to the ground. I shook it off and went back up clipped it and kept going. After that you shouldn't hit anything on the way down if you come off. Super fun route!
doughnutnational

Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
Jun 23, 2016 - 07:24pm PT
Do Hang em High the 5.8d+ part is not scary and the scary part is not hard.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2016 - 02:14pm PT
Hey Donut, how are the bolts on Hang Em High? Are they ol rusty death mank or have they been replaced fairly recently? Anybody done this route lately?
Dingus Milktoast

Trad climber
Minister of Moderation, Fatcrackistan
May 22, 2017 - 08:49am PT
What's the story behind the name of the route Art Baker Memorial?

Is it THIS Art Baker, from You Asked For It fame?


Always wondered,s till don't know and seeing this video in another thread reminded me to ask. There are a shitload of Tollhouse threads but I picked this one.

Anyone know?

Micronut?

Anyone?

Question for ya, ever play the ole shell game, hmmm?

DMT

mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
May 22, 2017 - 09:32am PT
Hang em High I thought was really fun but I do not remember any runout that scared me

Yah, I think Barry Chambers went out there several years ago and placed a bolt right at the mantle point, making it whole lot less scary. When I did it, there was no bolt and if you botched the mantle, you'd land on the slanted ledge.....ankle breaker for sure! Should be safer now.

Personal favorites:

- Wandering Taoist (Justin is right, just do it....solid 5.9)
- Falling Star (left of Wandering)
- Think Nothing Of It (well protected in my opinion)(
- United Express
- Shining Path (old Dad's did a fine job!)
two-shoes

Trad climber
Auberry, CA
May 22, 2017 - 12:40pm PT
I didn't add any bolts to "Hang 'em High" Mooch.

I may have talked about adding a bolt to the crux of "Marvin's Mantle", but then later, after climbing it, thought better of it.

Some of the bolts on the crux pitch of Hang em High were moved either left, or right, just slightly, to help cut down rope drag. No more than a foot or two, I believe. This pitch had tremendous rope drag potential before. It would be hard to fall more than 10' to 12' anywhere near the cruxey sections, I believe. The upper part of this pitch, and the second pitch is fairly run, but is on fairly easy ground. I can't even imagine someone falling in these areas. Fairly safe route, I feel.

Way too hot there now. Don't even consider it.
mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
May 22, 2017 - 12:44pm PT
I stand corrected Barry! Thanks for the info. I remember you mentioning something like that when we last hung out at Shuteye. Maybe it was Marvin's Mantle I was on instead. Btw, we missed you at the slideshow this weekend. Dwight's guidebook showed up in time too! DRoooooooooooool......
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 22, 2017 - 07:59pm PT
I haven't climbed there since 2005, but here is the list of routes I have done:

3 Balls
3 Beginner's Delight
1 Car Key Corner
1 Cuticle Corner
2 Diana's Delight
1 Elephant Walk
1 Falling Star (P1)
2 Headwall
2 Home Boys
3 Knockin' on Heavens Door
2 Nuts & Bolts
2 Old Fart's Edge
2 Ruffles
1 Stairway to Heaven
1 Stone Shaman
1 The Uncorner
7 Tollhouse Traverse
2 Wandering Taoist
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
May 23, 2017 - 06:36am PT
Three routes I really enjoyed this year that I hadn't done before were Hang em High, Parental Guidance, and Desperado. Agree with most that Hang em High is sandbagged at 5.8, had to think a little but it's all there. Barry and I did the route a month ago and the hardware is not old. Didn't feel too runout.
Desperado was my favorite of the three. First pitch is ok, but the money pitch I didn't want to end. Every move was interesting and fun.
Credit: Jeremy Ross
Desperado 2nd pitch






micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2017 - 10:33am PT
Tollhouse bump for the upcoming Tollhouse Face-Off this weekend. Fri Sat Sunday. Lots of locals coming out. THE WEATHER IS GONNA BE SPLIITER! Gathering Friday night I believe. Raffle on Saturday afternoon. I'll be filming all weekend with a small crew....shooting a nice little film about Tollhouse, its history, its climbers, its vibe and what it means to all of us who love it. Who's coming?

Credit: micronut
Paul W

Trad climber
Three Rivers, CA
Oct 4, 2017 - 12:20pm PT
Scott, did you ever get on “hang em high”?
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