Eye of Sauron - Lassen

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Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 28, 2015 - 11:54pm PT
Looks fun ...
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 29, 2015 - 10:32am PT

Thanks Biotch. I really appreciate this type of post. Cool photos, y'all.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 29, 2015 - 10:45am PT
Wouldn't it take as long or longer to get to that as it would Castle Crags?
I know variety is nice and all but, really.
Edge

Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2015 - 11:15am PT

My wife and I loved Lassen, but only got to spend a couple days there before heading northeast to the obsidian mines in the Modoc National Forest.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 29, 2015 - 03:52pm PT
from "Lassen Volcanic National Park - A Climber's Guide", by John F. Bald, 1991

Bellybutton

Resembling Buddha's belly, the Bellybutton is the largest climbing
formation in the Park. Many of the climbs are quite rewarding due to the
quality of rock, exposure and outstanding views.
To approach the Bellybutton,.hike the summit trail to a point where a
bench in the talus contours to the west. Leave the summit trail at the west
end of the second swftchback. A vague climber's trail contours the talus to
reach a more pronounced bench. From here, scramble up large talus
boulders to the foot of the rock.
The Park Service has expressed concern over the potential erosion
damage of descending straight to the parking lot from the bench. In an effort
to avoid unsightly gullies on the slope, please use the access recommended
in this guide. Descending straight down from the bench is prohibited and
persons doing so will be fined.
Descents are usually from rappel stations, with the exception of climbs
on the Trinity Wall and those near Post Nasal. Walk-offs are possible down
the NW and NE ends of the Plug.

41 BIRDLEG 5.10b/c
Steep interconnecting cracks.

42 HADES 5.9
Can be done in two pitches.

43 TRINITY CRACK, LEFT 5.10a/b
Protection to 2.5"

44 TRINITY CRACK, CENTER 5.10a/b *
Like the other TRINITIES; nice jam crack.

45 TRINITY CRACK, RIGHT 5.11a *
Technical jams.

46 FAR RIGHT 5.10d/11a
Many small and medium nuts. Bring a #3 and #4 Friend.

47 WANDERER 5.8+
Only one hard move, but bring your road map.

48 TANGERINE DREAM 5.9+ *
Long hand and fist cracks.

49 TANGERINE DIRECT 5.10b R
Direct approach to first belay ledge on TANGERINE
DREAM. Run out.

50 REMOTE LUXURY 5.10b/c *
Hand crack right of TANGERINE DREAM. Bolted face
above upper belay ledge, 7 bolts.

51 ATTITUDE IS EVERYTHING 5.9+
Start in flake, then up face past 2 bolts to left facing corner.
Extra small protection to 2", long pitch.

52 SPORTING CHANCE 5.9 *
Detached pillar must be passed. Protection to 4".

53 TRES HOMBRES 5.10d
Bring 6" protection for offwidth pitch.

54 UNNAMED 5.12
Top Rope problem.

55 PYROCLASTIC PUMP 5.11a
Overhanging knobs left of AGUA DULCE.

56 AGUA DULCE 5.10c
Steep rock to small right facing corner above.

57 CHANGING PHASES 5.10a/b *
2 bolts lead to dark water streak. Include natural
protection on rack.

58 MEJITO 5.9 *
Dubious nut placements lead to a bolt and crux above.

59 VARIATION A 5.8
Medium sized protection.

60 VARIATION B 5.9+ R
Natural protection difficult to place.

61 VISCOUS VARIATION 5.10a R
Natural protection difficult to place.

62 REGULAR ROUTE, FINISH LEFT 5.9
From second belay, follow long hand crack on left to top.

63 REGULAR ROUTE 5.8
Connects ledges to top. Be cautious for loose talus after
topping out.

64 BUSLOAD OF FAITH 5.11c *
Bolted face left of EASILY AMUSED. 7 bolts.

65 EASILY AMUSED 5.10c/d
Straight in crack on wall left of arete. Protection to 2".

66 PINACOIDAL CLEAVAGE 5.10a *
Thin crack that follows arete. Protection to 2.5".

67 HEATED DISCUSSION 5.9+
From belay of SYMPATHETIC HYGIENE, work up then left
past 2 bolts. Bring small to medium protection.

68 SYMPATHETIC HYGIENE 5.9+
Thin crack on upper belly.

69 VIVA GORBY 5.11b/c *
Top rope beneath JELLY BELLY belay.

70 JELLY BELLY 5.10b *
2 bolts on 1 st pitch, 2 bolts on 2nd pitch. Protection to 3".

71 CRISIS LINE 5.11c/d *
Overhanging buckets to steep face.

72 GHETTO BLAST 5.11a *
Micro nuts to 1.5".

73 WAGANUPA (Little Shasta) 5.10b/c *
Challenging lead! All natural protection, micro to #3
Friend.

74 THE GREAT HOT BLAST 5.10d *
Original line on the smooth belly. Protection to 2.5".

75 PRAERUPTUS 5.10b/c *
Steep ramp right of THE GREAT HOT BLAST. 7 bolts,
medium nut optional.

76 DIGRESSION 5.10a
Near top of POST NASAL step left to bolt belay. Climb
directly up, protect in thin cracks.

77 EXIT LEFT 5.7
Left crack from NASAL ledge.

78 POST NASAL 5.7 R
Very loose gully climb, yuck!

79 BULL TERRIER 5.9
Center crack leading off NASAL ledge.

80 EXIT RIGHT 5.7
Right crack leading off NASAL ledge.
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Nov 29, 2015 - 10:18pm PT
High quality volcanic rock. Large selection of routes and grades up to 400' tall.Though it is a big mountain, you can drive all the way up to a parking area that is only an hour approach, with gear. More info on the guidebook for the area can be found here: http://camp4press.com/guidebooks.html
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
Nov 29, 2015 - 10:48pm PT
I was lucky enough to spend a few days in July with my friends R. Harlin, T. Loughlin,
T. Burrill, and J.Jackson climbing at both the Eagle Cliffs and on the Plug. Since 90%+ of the routes done up there were by these dudes I was digging it!

A unique and cool place to climb. There's bolts up there but they ain't no clip-ups!
Somewhere I have some photos...I'll have to dig them out.
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Nov 30, 2015 - 10:30am PT
Sweet!
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Nov 30, 2015 - 10:30am PT
Wow, that is a really amazing feature!
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Nov 30, 2015 - 10:40am PT
My precious...
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 27, 2017 - 04:27pm PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]Best footage from @ 5:00 on. Our last good snow year here in Cal.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 27, 2017 - 05:01pm PT
hey there, say, ß Î Ø T Ç H...

wow, missed this posts, fro a ways back...

neat share, never seen that 'eye' rock, not even in pics, :O


also: edge, wow, our family was there, when we were young...
i loved it... has neat pics, but they got lost when i moved, years ago...




thanks, all, for sharing, :)
i-b-goB

Social climber
Wise Acres
Apr 27, 2017 - 06:54pm PT
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-trophy/110624901...

...looks good!
Mule Skinner

Social climber
Bishop
Apr 27, 2017 - 08:52pm PT
The real bad ass of that area is Jonh Lesko
Jay S

Mountain climber
Silver Gate, Mt
Apr 27, 2017 - 09:39pm PT
Lassen is a ski mountain!
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
Apr 28, 2017 - 09:18am PT
There is great cragging in Lassen- some of the approaches go across snow fields in the dead of summer so it's a nice respite from the blasting July heat. I prefer it to Castle Crags for both the approach and the rock quality. Also, Lassen NP is a super cool sort of under the radar national park.
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