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Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
Mad Max
Trad climber
Bakersfield
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 28, 2015 - 08:56am PT
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Hello,
I have some Vasque Snowblimes that I can spare to destroy with aid climbing this winter, but I want to know what shoes YOU all like wearing while piddling around in aiders this winter season.
Is there a better way of going about practicing aid climbing, and just climbing in general, in the winter? All of your advice and criticism is welcomed, fire away!
Thanks guys,
Max
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 28, 2015 - 09:07am PT
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Any heavy boot. Even sorrels.
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Mad Max
Trad climber
Bakersfield
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2015 - 10:51am PT
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Thanks Jaybro, I'll take note of that
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Nov 28, 2015 - 10:55am PT
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alcohol
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Mad Max
Trad climber
Bakersfield
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2015 - 10:57am PT
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Duly noted, Knob Creek acquired.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 28, 2015 - 12:04pm PT
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Have done aid in plastic boots..can't say i'd really recommend it, not the best for going fast or doing a bit of free.. but could stand in aiders for hours and no foot discomfort. Speaking of Vasque ,,my favorites for summer pure aid were an old pair of Sundowners. Metal rand in the arch made em quite comfy.
Nowadays I'd probably go with one of the nice new ice climbing hybrid boots.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Nov 28, 2015 - 12:39pm PT
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Old Ice Climbing boots work great. they will get beat to f*#k. But they work.
Prod.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Nov 28, 2015 - 01:10pm PT
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I have a pair of old RR's that are great for aid. Not so good for anything else however, including walking, breathing, etc.
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Nov 28, 2015 - 04:20pm PT
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I like aid climbing in RR's too. If you have a half sole of sticky rubber put on they free climb pretty well too - way better than the approach shoes most people aid climb in.
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Mad Max
Trad climber
Bakersfield
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2015 - 06:38pm PT
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Thanks everyone, this is a lot of info!
But, being a bendy green noob, I have no idea what "RR" stands for in the footwear world, besides they're probably great shoes.
I've aided in some Sportiva Boulder X's and they were okay but they have such a narrow toe box that they get uncomfortable throughout the day
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 28, 2015 - 07:23pm PT
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It's old timer speak for ancient blue suede shoes that Royal Robbins imported WBITD.
Actually pretty fair boots especially if resoled with sticky rubber. Like anything one could use em in moderately cold weather if sized properly. Course they haven't been made in like 30, 40 years or so.
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Nov 28, 2015 - 09:39pm PT
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depends how cold 'cold' will be.
LS trangos are good and take a simple crampon if needed, but having fabric panels get cold if theres snow.
integrated gaiters like baturas, phantoms etc are good but serious money. the newer rubbers used on the rands on the G2 SMs, TNF verto extremes etc is much more resistant to abrasion than the previous stuff, but a layer of goo wont hurt.
i did this to a pair of trangos on only 12 pitches of moderately rough granite over 3 days.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Nov 29, 2015 - 04:36am PT
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This is what happened to my Boulder X's after 2 walls:
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Mad Max
Trad climber
Bakersfield
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2015 - 08:33am PT
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Yikes, looks like some serious wear is about to happen, so shoe goo might be a good option to reinforce the toes?
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Nov 29, 2015 - 04:00pm PT
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I've used an old pair of 5-10 big wall boots. There roomy enough for two pair of socks in the winter. I would imagine any stiff soul boot would work good enough if you don't step out for freeing much.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nov 30, 2015 - 02:51am PT
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Old Ice Climbing boots work great. they will get beat to f*#k. But they work.
I've used a pair of La Phoque's (the first generation of mountaineering boots with a fiberglass midsole, making them terrific for edging and ice climbing, designed by Pierre Laroux in the 1960's) for cold weather aid, but experienced exactly what Prod reported.
RR's were the Galibier "Yosemite," imported, and with design input by, Royal Robbins. They had a rubber rand, heels, lugged soles, and were stiff enough for good edging, but nearly impossible to smear. The heels help the shoe to fit more securely in aiders, and the stiffness helps reduce fatigue. I still have, and use, two pairs. One is a half size smaller than street shoes, the other one half size larger. I have climbed 5.11a in the smaller pair.
There are several modern boots with essentially similar properties. The big thing for cold weather is fitting the shoe loosely enough to allow circulation to the foot. Most aid routes will still require some modest free climbing, but don't be tempted to use shoes that fit too tightly. My bigger pair of RR's needs two pairs of socks - one thick and one thin - in order for my feet not to rattle around, and work perfectly in colder weather for most aid or wall routes.
John
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