Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 16, 2015 - 09:50am PT
I just invented a haul bag elevator on El Cap! No, this is just an example of space hauling. Hauling gear up a big wall is rarely fun: this is the exception.
How this photo relates to the ASCA: just two month’s earlier in August 1998, I had done the first Girdle Traverse of El Capitan with Mark Melvin, a 75 pitch route that begs the question “Why?” At the end of day one, Mark and I were next to a lower anchor of the route in this photo: Tangerine Trip. Mark clipped a bolt and I began to lower him for another epic pendulum to join Tangerine Trip. After 5 feet, I stopped lowering Mark to re-arrange the rope. Suddenly Mark was falling into space. My belay device caught him and violently pulled me down. The bolt I had been lowering Mark off had snapped! And it wasn’t like Mark took a big fall! Just that little force of stopping the GriGri broke a bolt. Yikes.
I had always heard of bolts breaking, especially on Tangerine Trip in the section where this photo was taken. But I never thought I would witness such a dramatic failure. And I never thought they would break under such low forces. It was a sobering reminder that all these bolts need to eventually be replaced - some sooner than later!
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