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| Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
20_kN
Sport climber
20 kN Land
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 8, 2015 - 01:32pm PT
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I am looking for something for late Oct. Something that can be done in a long day reasonably, grade IVish (e.g. not Freerider). So far the best two I can find seem to be The Crucifix and Romulan Freebird. The Crucifix looks good, but it seems a bit short at six pitches. Ideas? I am open to a .11 too if there are any out there as good as the Rostrum and Astroman.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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I heard Scarface on Liberty Cap is really good. Especially the upper pitches.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Guess no one ever told you there are no long days in the valley in October.Also I don't think anyone frees the Crucifix and says that it was short.Git up on it.
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WBraun
climber
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Mary's Tears to Crucifix is the way to go.
Do FreeStone on Geek Towers, left side.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Beggars Buttress is a nice 5.11,
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Romulan Freebird is stellar and probably one of the best 5.12 around especially for October. Definitely keep it at the top of your priority list.
Crucifix with Mary's Tears start is plenty long. Scarface, Mahtah, and Unemployment Line are probably really good, but get a good bit of sun. Same with Gates of Delirium - lots of sun there too, so save them for a colder day. Hotline is on the shorter end (can be done in 4-5 pitches). Beggar's Buttress is as hard as 5.11 gets, so almost 5.12 and gets zero sun.
Don't forget the Rostrum with Uprising variation and Alien finish!
Also thought about the Lurch - another shady and safe 5.12+. Only know 2 parties who have done it, though.
Border Country gets done a good bit lately and is in the shade as well. More of a face climbing route, but very clean and excellent quality.
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20_kN
Sport climber
20 kN Land
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2015 - 10:40pm PT
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^^^^ Wont it be pretty cold in Tuolumne in late October? Good call on the shorter days, not sure what I was thinking. I am so used to climbing in the Valley in late spring.
Mary's to Crucifix looks good. What's better, Mary's to Crucifix or Romulan Freebird?
Rostrum is already on my list. I am really looking forward to it—the climbing looks supurb.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Glad kevin mentioned blind Faith.The first pitch is one of the best thin cracks in the valley and then there is the wide.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Sean Jones told me one of his best days in the valley was when he established an .11c route in the Ribbon Falls amphitheater. They walked up and freed the route in a day, no bolts.
How cool would that be...
That second pitch, .10b, on the Gates of Delirium is certainly picturesque, but the first pitch is supposed to be pretty burly .12c or something.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Oct 10, 2015 - 11:36pm PT
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Blind Faith quite good and should be nice in late October, weather permitting. An older route ('75?) so get the feel of a largely crack classic. I don't know, hard 11 maybe low 12. Do pay attention to some flakes which can be fragile, but overall a beautiful line with intricate climbing.
First pitch depends a lot on finger size so there you go. Pitch 3 off-width tricky but fine if OK with off-width. On 4th pitch, my old diary says stay right for the way it was done on FA. Last pitch quite hard if do FA left finish. I think right option (right corner) is the easiest, though not the original.
Enjoy!
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Oct 11, 2015 - 01:42am PT
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Tales of Power, Separate Reality, Fish Crack:)
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Oct 11, 2015 - 12:05pm PT
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+1 Crucifix
It is a phenomenal route, definitely grade IV with the Tears start.
The pitch above the crux has to be the best pitch of 5.10 big hands in the valley.
The final 60 meters from the arm of the Crucifix to the top is one of the finest long free pitches in the valley too imho
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Oct 16, 2015 - 05:03pm PT
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Any C1 pitch I've climbed on the Captain.
:)
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 16, 2015 - 06:39pm PT
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Burden of dreams by moratorium is mega hard. But I'm light and can't really comment.
I have not done the freestone, but also heard it is a step up from Astroman and is spectacular supposedly. Would love to hear about it if you do it.
Beggar's buttress is a good route with a 5.10 bolted pitch and a 5.11 fingercrack in a corner as a start. The final boulder problem is as hard as 5.11 could get, agree with Impaler there. Enduro section before that pitch is harder than the enduro corner and the boulder problem at the start of that pitch is hard as hell too.
West face of el cap is a pretty long and challenging 11c. Good quality. But I'd go for Freestone if I was a bit more bad ass.
Gates of Delirium is very good. Would be a great day in the sun. Another route out there that is likely a gem is Ribbon Candy.
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| Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
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