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Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 3, 2015 - 11:00am PT

1930 was an exceptional year for climbing and adventure to come.

In Italy these guys were born:

In France this guy:

In Britain:

And in Germany
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Aug 3, 2015 - 11:06am PT
Beautiful pictures.

Joe Brown, and who?
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2015 - 11:09am PT

Yes, the last picture is Joe Brown. And then who? I'm sure someone knows...
squishy

Mountain climber
Aug 3, 2015 - 12:11pm PT
those guys look like total noobs, just look at the gear choices..nothing from the gearlab in there...those guys are totally gonna die..
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Aug 3, 2015 - 06:06pm PT
Walter "Flint" Gonaughty, top pic.

Total n00b.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Aug 3, 2015 - 06:48pm PT
Is that Cesare Maestri, born in Trento, in pic #2? The date listed as his birthday is in October, 1929, close enough for the Italian records, surely, so close enough for our purposes.

AKA the Spider Savage of the Dolomites.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Aug 3, 2015 - 07:06pm PT
Had a vintage 1930 French Bordeaux last week in the Tetons.....alas, it had gone to vinegar.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2015 - 10:28pm PT

Mouse.

Walter Bonatti on the first picture, yes.

On the second picture you see Carlo Mauri. He and Bonatti shared the first ascent of Gasherbrum IV. He also had some fine FAs in the Alps, among other ascents. Mauri sailed with Thor Heyerdahl on RA1, RA2 and Tigris, a true adventurer.

Donini.

Bordeaux is close enough. Rene Desmaison on the third picture was born in Bourdeilles, Dordogne, not far from Bordeaux.
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Aug 4, 2015 - 03:06am PT
Not to forget Hermann Huber!
http://www.alpenverein.de/services/panorama/video-zum-portraet-in-dav-panorama-4-2015-hermann-huber-klettert-in-buchenhain_did_15961.html
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2015 - 07:19am PT

Nutstory.

Thanks for the suggestion. There's always something new to learn. Hermann Huber is added to the OP. Another true climber and adventurer born in 1930....
life is a bivouac

Trad climber
Aug 4, 2015 - 08:20am PT
WOW! That's all I can say... after watching this little clip... such delightful foot work, stepping to pre-position for the next moves at 85, no thruching, simple deliberate moves... it's embedded in his genetic make up.
I hadn't heard of this "Hermann" until now... ( too bad Buhl couldn't be on the scene). So good to watch this Master.
Vielen Dank fur diesen Link!
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Aug 4, 2015 - 08:26am PT
Not only Hermann Huber is an outstanding mountaineer but he also managed the German company Salewa during a long time.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2016 - 09:37am PT

1930s

In the 1930s, the finest mountaineers in Europe set their sights on what were called the six great north faces of the Alps. One by one they succumbed, not without large doses of failure and tragedy. The north face of the Matterhorn was climbed in 1931 by a pair of German brothers who bicycled to the mountain from Munich. In 1933, the overhanging north face of the Cima Grande in the Dolomites fell as the crowning achievement of the visionary Italian, Emilio Comici. Two years later, the north face of the Aiguille du Dru, near Chamonix, was climbed by a French team that finished a bold line pioneered by the Swiss. Nineteen thirty-seven saw another Italian, Ricardo Cassin, spearhead the first ascent of the northeast face of the Piz Badile, in an epic storm-plagued push that cost the lives of two of the victors, who died of exhaustion on the descent.

By 1938, only the Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses, also near Chamonix, and the north face of the Eiger in the Bernese Oberland of Switzerland remained unsolved. That August, Cassin would lead a pair of friends up the Walker, in a dogged assault that took 82 hours of climbing in frigid conditions. The first ascent of the Eiger Nordwand, only a few weeks earlier, remains one of the great landmarks in climbing history, culminating a campaign more deadly than mountaineering had ever before seen.
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