Sorenson/Roberts Grand Central Couloir/Mt. Kitchener


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Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic

Social climber
Elk Grove, California
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 22, 2015 - 11:56am PT
HI thought this posting deserved its own thread.

I just recently scanned these old slides from Tobin and Jack Roberts' ascent. Don't know the exact date but I think it was the winter of 1978-79.

The avalanche was in the morning before doing the route. They were camped near the bottom of a snow field below the face. Tobin said they heard a cracking as the summit cornices broke and he shot a picture as the ice roared down the face towards them, then they dived into the tent as if it would do any good. As they cowered in what they thought would be their tomb, there was a loud 'Foomf' sound as the avalanche hit the tent. They climbed out to find a foot deep of ice crystal snow had harmlessly swept over and deposited onto them. Agreement was made then and there to start the climb before another avalanche scoured the route.

Any other info regarding this ascent would be greatly appreciated.



Here's the link to Avery's original Mt. Kitchener thread

Social climber
Elk Grove, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2015 - 12:48pm PT
One of Tobin's Alpinism slide show admission tickets found in the bottom of a box of his slides. It was from a show he did at Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo, 1979 or 1980.

Feb 22, 2015 - 01:08pm PT
Wonderful pics, Bushman. I find the lecture ticket pic somewhat poignant.

Ice climber
Feb 22, 2015 - 04:16pm PT
I enjoy these pictures and stories so much! I'm sure I have some pictures....I have TONS of fairly unorganized slides from Jack....I've been trying to create order out of chaos from time to time. As I'm sure you know, digging through slides means digging through memories, and it's a slow, sometimes painful process! If only they were both still around to help us with the process....
Simon McCartney

Mountain climber
Hong Kong
Feb 22, 2015 - 08:56pm PT
Well Hi,
fascinating post. It is Simon McCartney, I climbed the first Ascent of the north face of Mount Huntington AK with Jack in 78. Jack and I made the first ascent of the SW face of Denali in 80 (famously my last climb). Your dates are maybe correct, the GCC climb with Tobin was either the winter of 78/79 or 79/80. What I can say is the Jack did not tell me about his GCC frostbite when we went up on Denali until it reoccurred and became a bigger problem. In my forthcoming book there will be another Jack's toes picture, eerily the same only much worse.
Spiny Norman

Social climber
Boring, Oregon
Sep 6, 2015 - 08:57pm PT
A new GCC ascent by Dylan Johnson and Colin Haley:

Would have added this to the other Kitchener/GCC thread but the forum engine won't allow me to put new posts there.
Spiny Norman

Social climber
Boring, Oregon
Sep 6, 2015 - 10:50pm PT
Well, the threads are still there. We just can't add to them any more. A real pity. Some astonishing things in there, Avery.

Boulder climber
Sep 7, 2015 - 12:04am PT
I quit Supertopo about three weeks ago.
Then shut the f*#k up already.

Sep 7, 2015 - 06:00pm PT
the fact that they drove on after that avalanche is just...crazy...inspiring and humbling.
Thanks for the thread

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Sep 7, 2015 - 08:33pm PT
Thanks for this priceless post . . . formidable men.
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