ElCap Report 1/6/15 Free Dawn Wall Day 11

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Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 7, 2015 - 06:49am PT
http://www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-162015-special-dawn-wall-edition-day-11
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Jan 7, 2015 - 06:53am PT
“Ansel” Evans… at the center of the media universe! OMG!

You the man.
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
Jan 7, 2015 - 07:01am PT
Thanks so much for these updates, Tom. It is nice to know where to get the real news on the project. You are the alternative media!
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Jan 7, 2015 - 07:12am PT

I for one thought those were some pretty rad night photos!!

& you are a solid media ambassador for the climbing community!


cubicle puke out,




John Duffield

Mountain climber
New York
Jan 7, 2015 - 07:34am PT
Around 10:30 she emailed me that Kevin had made three tries and had fallen each time, just short of the belay. Not good. He took another run at it but the result was the same. So they quit for the night. I think the 11 days hanging off ElCap must be slowly causing the men to lose some fitness, and their fingers have not had enough time to recover from the beating of climbing to that height. It is hard for fingers to heal with only one or two days of rest. They have made excellent progress to their present high point and just might need a 3 day break, left alone by the photographers, to get their bodies really rested. Just my 2 cents worth of useless advise most likely!!

WOW!!!

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jan 7, 2015 - 10:36am PT
Great work, Tommy - thanks for taking the time to type at me today. Hope you're finally making some big $$ for selling your photos to the world!!

So if Kevin is unable to climb this pitch, that would be the end of the Team Free Ascent? But it's still a Free Ascent if ONE guy or the OTHER guy free climbs all the pitches, right? That's what Skinner and Piana did on the FFA of Salathe Wall, no?

As long as ONE of them gets every pitch, it should count[?]
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Jan 7, 2015 - 10:38am PT
I don't see why they both have to be able to do every pitch. Isn't that jeopardizing the project? I'm not calling Jorgeson a belayer but did Honnold's belayer climb any pitches when Honnold did the Muir Wall in twelve hours recently? Didn't that climb count? I think they should get the show on the road. They can always come back to improve the style. Just saying - there is too much at stake.

Edit: I wrote my post while Pete was writing his. His was not there when I started writing. Yeah, let's get this climb done! There is no shame in not being able to do a pitch on the hardest climb in the world...... Too many cameras and media on this for good decisions to be made. I've seen THAT happen before.

Edit: On the other hand, maybe they are doing it exactly as they want to. May the force be with them!
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Jan 7, 2015 - 10:46am PT
I hope they shoot for the top soon before weather or something else shuts them down.
Texplorer

Trad climber
Sacramento
Jan 7, 2015 - 11:30am PT
McHale. This is an old debate. The "american" ethic typically has been to free a route a team must have just one person free each section however the europeans seem to think both partners must free all sections. Go look up the old Piania/Skinner vs Huber stuff on the Salathe.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Jan 7, 2015 - 12:14pm PT
"They can just come back"

Hard to state just how unlikely that would be if one sends and one doesn't.
To me, the right thing, after years of partnering on it, would be to leave that decision in KJ's hands and let him try as long as he wants until he either suceeds or concedes defeat, then move on.

I think he sends. Hope so, anyway.
Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
Jan 7, 2015 - 12:24pm PT
Love the night time shots. Hope the guys keep moving upwards. My guess is that they can only spend a certain amount of time up there before progress is thwarted by diminishing returns on the physical side.

Cheers,
Doug
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2015 - 01:20pm PT
Elcapinyoazz got it right.
ryankelly

Trad climber
Bhumi
Jan 7, 2015 - 08:31pm PT
as the Taco Turns...

glad Tom is there to deal with the Lame-Stream Media and he has some fly threads from Adidas for the job

Power on Tommy and Kevin!
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jan 8, 2015 - 08:11am PT
Can you imagine, four tries and a slip near the belay each time.

What a feeling that will be when Kev sends!


Now, about that .13+/.14- downclimb ... Yeow!!!
ROtotheC

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Jan 8, 2015 - 08:12am PT
In other related news:

http://www.adventure-journal.com/2013/08/the-adventurey-report-alex-honnold-adds-sit-down-start-to-the-nose/

Thought this was worth sharing.
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2015 - 09:49am PT
Honnold!!!!! Funny spoof!!
Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic
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