Can I borrow your portaledge?

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Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic

Aki J

Trad climber

Placerville, CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 27, 2014 - 11:11pm PT

Hey there,

I am coming back home (to Placerville, CA) for the beginning of summer break and want to jump on something longer with a friend. We have gathered all the necessary gear, except of course the most expensive piece- a portaledge. Seeing as we're only going to be in the valley for two weeks, we were thinking that we could borrow a ledge from a friend. Unfortunately, nobody has one to loan!

So here I am, asking you guys!

Thanks,

Aki

SethKane

Ice climber

Bozeman, MT

Apr 28, 2014 - 12:11am PT

the Schwag doesn't pay enough for a portaledge?

Aki J

Trad climber

Placerville, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2014 - 12:17am PT

I wish.. apparently serving cardboard-like pizza isn't worth that much to the management of the esteemed Miller Dining Hall.

Aki J

Trad climber

Placerville, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2014 - 10:17am PT

Bump!

protour

Trad climber

Concord, CA

Apr 28, 2014 - 10:27am PT

I'm sure you've already investigated this route, but does anyone from the Ghoulwe club have Jay's gear? I know he had a ledge.

whitemeat

Big Wall climber

San Luis Obispo, CA

Apr 28, 2014 - 10:33am PT

you can climb all these routes without a portaledge very easily! I am sure there are more too!! and if you can climb kinda quick like or have TONS of energy then any route on the collumn can be done in a day... same with a lot of el cap routes and such...

washingtons collumn:
south face
skull queen
southern man
south central

Half dome:
RNWF (regular route)

El Capitan:
the nose
the salethe
lurking fear
zodiac (ledge above black tower and peenut)

Leaning tower:
West face (regular route)
wet denim daydream

Mount watkins:
south face (regular route)

but if you must have a ledge and no one lets you barrow one...

WBraun

climber

Apr 28, 2014 - 10:46am PT

You don't need a portaledge at all for almost all those routes listed.

Even the prow you don't need a portaledge.

There's bivy ledges on all those.

They've been done by hundreds of parties without portaledges.

The Nose you don't need one at all period.

The Nose and Salathe both have ledges to bivy on.

The reg route on half dome you don't need no portaledge at all nor do you need one on the Direct either,

You guys are stuck in your heads somewhere with "portaledges" ......

overwatch

climber

Apr 28, 2014 - 11:01am PT

Aren't all those bivi ledges covered in piss and sh#t?

I say portaledge and Hazmat suit.

ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber

Reno, Nevada

Apr 28, 2014 - 12:31pm PT

Werner and Whitemeat are right, lots of routes you can climb without a portaledge.

But WM, that Zodiac 7th pitch ledge is pretty rough for two:

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Apr 28, 2014 - 12:37pm PT

Sure, and when you come by to pick it up I'll let you have my Porsche too to drive up in.

Alpamayo

Trad climber

Sacramento, CA

Apr 28, 2014 - 12:40pm PT

http://www.dopemiller.com/

Their website says they rent them.

Michelle

Social climber

1187 Hunterwasser

Apr 28, 2014 - 12:46pm PT

Pretty ballsy asking here. I asked a couple if my friends recently if I could buy theirs and I got laughed at. Well, probably for other reasons, but anyway, good luck!

Aki J

Trad climber

Placerville, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2014 - 02:29pm PT

Thanks for the tips/recommendations. I am well aware that many routes can be done without a ledge, but we were thinking that our first time up the captain might require the comfort and flexibility of a ledge. I know it isn't necessary, so we're not about to cancel if we can't get a hold of one.

Thanks again!

Slabby D

Trad climber

B'ham WA

Apr 28, 2014 - 02:38pm PT

Might be better off without it and the accompanying hassles of hauling it along with setting up and breaking it down. Get on one of the routes recommended. I've done El Cap exactly once via the Triple Direct. We started in the afternoon and bivied 5 or 6 pitches up on a great ledge that doesn't even get mentioned as a bivi spot in the supertopo. From there you have many options every handful of pitches all the way up.

whitemeat

Big Wall climber

San Luis Obispo, CA

Apr 29, 2014 - 08:09pm PT

Ammon...

that does look rough! but it is enough to sleep I guess? the zod would for shore be one of the more BA walls with no ledge.

hey, you could try this!!!!!!!
[Click to View YouTube Video]

KabalaArch

Trad climber

Starlite, California

Apr 29, 2014 - 08:31pm PT

Yeah, whatever...a portaledge is lighter than a camper shell - I've got a BD single, new, never outof the bag 4sail, make me a reasonable offer takes it.