How to Make Hard Free Climb

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Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic
Howie Felderbush

Mountain climber
the homeless camp
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 4, 2014 - 09:23pm PT
1. Find old aid climb

2. Add many bolts

3. Chip holds

4. Spray on the Blog about it

Done
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 4, 2014 - 09:25pm PT
You forgot rehearse the piss out of it with a few extra bolts in place.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Jan 4, 2014 - 09:40pm PT
That is one way . . . you forgot about chopping down the native trees that block your photog angles.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Jan 4, 2014 - 09:58pm PT
too much order here in the courtroom.
i'm gonna sneak out and nip
a beer under the stars.

well, its a cutter, but hell
is make believe anyway.

i've got raging poison oak on my ankles,
athlete's foot on my footings,
formaldehyde / fiberglass in my eyes,
and cedar-fines in my lungs,

every damn thing is just right....

...i remember tripping around the base
of camp four wall, years ago,
and two sar boys were working on a thin crack.

the one boy, from vermont, greg linewsky i'd done
nut cracker with years before was on the horrendous
sharp end with nil for pro and i say what's up,
he's all calm and collected and tells me that
his partner's dad put up the line back in the day,
as an aid climb and they were trying to free it.

no f*#king bolts. no rehersal. just strung out
on an optimistic journey.

somewhere over by doggie-do or maybe even west of that.
Howie Felderbush

Mountain climber
the homeless camp
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2014 - 10:07pm PT
his partner dad did not put it up

after you left they add the bolts

and re-named it
skywalker

climber
Jan 4, 2014 - 10:16pm PT
Are you Uzbakistanian? The name sounds seimi-familiar.

S...
Evel

Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
Jan 4, 2014 - 10:19pm PT
Well in the first place your gonna need a demo saw. And whatever you do don't get a diamond blade.

Then yer gonna need a drill to bolt the crack you've made. (trust me on this, I've done it...)

As well as the aforementioned bolting of the route, you'll need to drill out the shallower sections of the crack.

Get Creative!

Said it before and I'll say it agin.


Yes, I'm the guy that sawed a crack down the wall at Bellefonte Quarry.

MAJOR bad press over that one. BFD! is what I got to say.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
U.N. Ambassador, Crackistan
Jan 4, 2014 - 10:21pm PT
Inconsistent lower case use. Fowl.

DMT
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 4, 2014 - 10:34pm PT
what do u have against lower case dmt.
What's the problem:

dont you like hard free climbs,

?
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
U.N. Ambassador, Crackistan
Jan 4, 2014 - 10:43pm PT
I don't know. I never did one! :D

DMT
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jan 4, 2014 - 11:08pm PT
This is so exciting. Find good rock, add cams and nuts, maybe an occasional piton. Bam-ooo hard free climb.. More bolts the better..
jstan

climber
Jan 4, 2014 - 11:31pm PT
Inconsistent lower case use. Fowl(sic).

Got to watch this Dingus character. Occasionally throws a mean change-up.
Howie Felderbush

Mountain climber
the homeless camp
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2014 - 11:33pm PT
Forgot number 5

5. Get Paid by Sponsor
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jan 4, 2014 - 11:42pm PT
Where ya gonna rent yer mobile search lights?

I got a friend sez he's your cuz, too.
https://www.facebook.com/howie.felderbush
Gotta protect those pretty hands, too!
Gotta protect those pretty hands, too!
Credit: mouse from merced
Howie Felderbush

Mountain climber
the homeless camp
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2014 - 11:47pm PT
Yeah that me. So What?

you the NSA?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 5, 2014 - 03:51am PT
Must've been a heck of a party there eh howie felderbush!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jan 5, 2014 - 05:41am PT
Hey, not hardly.

I'm just making mock, Duckbill.

Who's your shoe sponsor?
mcolombo

Trad climber
Heidelberg, Germany
Jan 5, 2014 - 10:10am PT
Age, Injury's and getting a bit fat is a great way to make all free climbs hard.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 5, 2014 - 10:25am PT
To make a hard free climb you first have to make a hard free climber....yourself. A much more difficult process than chipping or drilling.
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