Most Unpopular Yosemite Bigwalls


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Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 10, 2013 - 12:13am PT
is bigwalls a word?

are they unpopular because they are dirty and suck or because of a death potential?

TTrip on El Cap sucked for me because I thought it was a forced line missing all the features around it that potentially could have made a great route at the time when Porter put it up.

Tell me, what's the crappiest BIGwall you have done and why. I doesn't have to be recent. I'm going to write a book and I would love to hear all your stories of suffering.

Edit: you will be acknowledged for your contribution, however, not monetarily.

Edit: Hudon has an opinion, lets hear it

Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jul 10, 2013 - 12:25am PT
Electric Ladyland on the Column seems to get a bad rap.

I thought it was steep, grainy and sometimes loose. Not that that was wrong, in fact, it was great and a fun adventure.

Even Seargent Liquor muttered congratulations! while passing each other, heads set too...

The worst thing wasn't the 30' A4 head seam above a ledge. It was that for the 3 days we were up there, no one climbed Astroman.

Best pictures ever from a wall team looking down from space ? It didn't happen.

Oh, well...

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2013 - 12:34am PT
I guess TTrip is not exactly "unpopular" but it lacked a "vision" for sure, just like others that post here, and I'm not just talking about Nannok aka Erik Sloan
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 10, 2013 - 12:38am PT
TT is at the bottom of my El Cap Like List as well.

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 10, 2013 - 12:54am PT
I guess I have a different perspective. TT was my first El Cap route and I did it in winter during an epic storm back in 82. I have nothing but high praise for the experience but I don't really have anything to compare it to as far as quality of El Cap routes in general. Does it really matter?

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jul 10, 2013 - 01:01am PT
Gold Wall. One pitch up, then quit walls. Sold gear.

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jul 10, 2013 - 01:13am PT
9 o'clock wall has my eye.

You gotta have the 'vision' for one of those.

The wall of no repeats version #2?

Jul 10, 2013 - 01:14am PT
someone lacked vision when he climbed straight from the top of the pillar of hammerdom to thanksgiving if you ask me. not that it matters much.

it happens to everyone sometimes...

Big Wall climber
Jul 10, 2013 - 01:18am PT
Don't you know it's all about free climbing those a2 beauties these days. Nobody cares about groveling up choss piles on the more obscure faces lacking finger and hand cracks. Drilling machine heads on the porcelain wall is so played out because nobody wants to watch a 30 minute video of you moving 10 ft on some sketchy b.s. crimp down on a match stick with no rope and the camera rolling and we will all rise up from or holes to take notice of your Instagram. Damn Purist . What did we ever do before camera drones. Mad respect to those who shrug off the virus and get scared.

Social climber
Jul 10, 2013 - 01:38am PT
hey there say, klaus...

interesting share and thought...

thank you for posting... :)

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jul 10, 2013 - 01:59am PT
later bought gear, even a portaledge, climbed some slag, then El Cap, then Kings, then El Cap again.

Out of those, Freak Show in Kings Canyon, is quite unpopular... because it's not in the valley. Never had to wait in line.

Closest to thing to a crowd was a locals fixed line on a project that we saw one trip. It was gone the next time we were there.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 10, 2013 - 04:42am PT
"Most Unpopular" is not really the same thing as "crappiest", of course.
As you said, walls infrequently done could be:
 hard / runout aid climbing, like Continental Drift
(TR by Neil Chelton, where he introduces the concept of "half a pitch Pete" :-) )

 hard / runout mandatory free climbing, like Son of Heart
or Jolly Roger
(TRs by Levy)

 obscure - you can't find the topo and are not sure where it goes, like maybe Mediterraneo
 stuff that's way too hot - Mt. Watkins?
 stuff that has a very long approach - might as well do a FA out there instead?

I've done a few unpleasantly dirty pitches on walls, but had fun overall:
 Salathe' - "Jungle" or "Sewer" pitch
 Horse Chute - muddy/slimy arch (at least it was fun until I stupidly broke my finger a few pitches from the top)
 Never Never Land - muddy pitch where it gets steep before the rivet ladders to Pinnacle of Hammerdom

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2013 - 09:09am PT
I was thinking Porcelain Wall as well. I didn't drill the first ladder on it and not the last either. But it does have the best thin nailing crack in the valley. I guess it's all about free climbing these days.

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Jul 10, 2013 - 11:25am PT
I think it'd be awesome if you wrote a book about your climbs Klaus.

I'd buy it.

Most all them are pretty much unpopular right?

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jul 10, 2013 - 11:28am PT
Klaus, seriously man, you should type that stuff up. There is an entire experience of a different kind that hardly anyone breaks into that you were part of. It would be a shame not to share that perspective.

Jul 10, 2013 - 11:33am PT
the polish route on polar sun spire got a big deal of attention and respect. so does silvia vidal. or dave turner.

it's aidclimbing in yosemite that seems to be of no interest to anyone but those who do it.
i can see why.
I mean what has really happened since sea of dreams in terms of difficulties or whatever the climbing media (stupid as it may be!) is into?

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Jul 10, 2013 - 11:36am PT
You made it public dude. Now you HAVE to write more.

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
Bridwell told me he did the 2nd and final ascent of Arches Direct.

The Granite State.
Jul 10, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
Is Clouds Rest a 'big wall'?

It's not steep, but it sure is big.

It doesn't get climbed all that often, or so it would seem.

Jul 10, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
well, it didn't make the news... haha
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