Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
MisterE
Social climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 4, 2013 - 03:41pm PT
|
Be great to hear some stories about the man.
It's been over 30 years - anyone repeat A.H.R./Trice yet?
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
|
|
I think Sherman talks about Holloway in Stone Crusade, doesn't he, E?
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
Pat's film has some Amazing footage of Jim levitating,,, er, climbing.
|
|
jogill
climber
Colorado
|
|
"The past is a foreign country: they do things differently there"
And Jim was a paragon of climbing ability for his time. He amazed us all.
But it's hard to compare now with then.
|
|
johntp
Trad climber
socal
|
|
Jim Holloway - man, that is a name I have not seen in a while. I'm with MisterE, would love to see some stories from those that knew him.
What's a bben?
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
as jb put it, "holloway was the smoothest motherf*#ker, ever."
one of the highlights of pat's 2nd gill film (sorry pat, cant recall the title offhand) is that it includes a few clips from pat's footage of holloway climbing in something like his prime. just phenomenal. and a striking and instructive contrast with john's style.
two of the most important stylists of the last century.
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2013 - 09:58pm PT
|
Would love to see "Silent Climber". Does Pat have copies available?
Edited - my mistake on the movie name.
|
|
Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
|
|
Pat's videos are great and there is some footage of Halloway climbing in them.
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
Did you mean "Silent Climber?" That little film is
long out of print, and it was just
the roughest cut imaginable, hand edited on my lap in the
living room of my small Eldorado cabin in the mid '70s. I managed
to digitize some of the best of that footage for my two recent
films, the Disciples of Gill and John Gill Across Time. Both films
have a little of Holloway. He and John were the two best boulderers
of their era and, all things considered, remain unrivalled.
That's my own point of view, taking into consideration the
times and how far ahead they were. I bouldered a lot
with Jim, actually. I met him
when he was in his prime and I had gone down the other side of my
own hill. Finger injuries and things... made it so I couldn't do
my own routes, but we had fun nevertheless. He was in a different
world, with his size. I wrote a piece for Mountain Magazine entitled,
"A Climber Out of Reach." That was a play on words, as some dismissed
his abilities as the result of his great height and thin body. Yet he
would run around and climb routes with the exact holds of much
shorter people... He was "out of reach" as a result of ability, not
his reach....
|
|
matty
Trad climber
under the sea
|
|
Meathook??...still unrepeated?
|
|
Dwight Brooks
Boulder climber
LA
|
|
I haven't seen Jim in forty years, but between 1974-76 I saw him sometimes daily on Flagstaff. He was a great friend and a real gentleman. Found myself thinking about him the other day, and realized I had never met anybody like him and that he was a very unique human being. He and Jimmy Michaels were usually together then and they were both so far ahead of anyone else that it was really like going into a different world to watch those guys do moves. The thing that was so great about both of them was that even though they were in a class by themselves, they were both so damned nice. Jim Holloway would stand around quietly, affable and humorous, and just let the lesser mortals boulder. Then all of a sudden he would get serious, step up, and rip something unimaginable off with total precision and then within seconds he would be back down, easygoing, just hanging out. He was so commanding yet so mellow. Jimmy was much shorter but did ridiculous things all the time. No cockiness in these guys, no arrogance, no self-obsession: just incredibly likable fellows who were totally cool to far lesser boulderers. I had about fifty sessions in which I got to hang with them, and I realize now that these two years of my life were really enhanced by being able shoot up Flagstaff any day after school and somewhere suddenly catch a glimpse of the white pants, on the big man with the long hair and painter's cap, and the shorter long-haired redhead. They were the best and they were utterly without tweaks or attitudes: just really fine guys.
|
|
matty
Trad climber
under the sea
|
|
Welcome DB! I'm sure you know Largo posts here. Glad you could join too. Don't get skeerd off by the bullshite round here. Hope you can contribute some good stories. Always enjoyed hearing about your adventures via John. (You must be the same DB right?)
Matt
|
|
MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2016 - 09:34pm PT
|
Thanks so much for the stories, Dwight - and welcome.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!