Requesting Info: Sgt. Slaughter


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Topic Author's Original Post - May 12, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
Hey folks.

Anyone out there have useful information on Sgt. Slaughter (Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks) as a free route? Partner and I got back from an incredible trip on the Original Route a couple of weeks ago, and I'm looking for information on other free routes on the wall. I've got the older guidebook with general information on Sgt. Slaughter and Brown Recluse, but I'd be interested in first hand accounts or recommendations. Not looking for any move-by-move beta, but it would be useful to know if there are bad belays, death blocks, and the like (I've got kids), as well as any general recommendations (big cams necessary, etc.).

Feel free to PM me if you'd prefer that.



Trad climber
the tip of god's middle finger
May 12, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
general recommendations?
hmm. here's some non-specific input:

my most meaningful climbing and non-climbing accomplishments
have transpired within me,
usually contrary to the advice of
my predecessors.

suggestions generated here
will surely be tainted by:
 time's passage (loose blocks, lightening strikes, naked chicks
at the 5th belay, etc);

 the sug-jester's stature (scary move's marginal belays, beautiful views, etc.)

 the ill medium thru which you seek pre-experience on this climb (duh the f*#king internet lacks the all important eye contact between trustees)

so if you wanna free the dunn route (was that the one you're inquiring about,) just go f*#king do it and make sense of it as it makes sense of you. the kids'll still cuddle and cry and counter your direction.

the car will still start (maybe needing a triple AAA jump),

air will continue to surpass the dew point and create clouds that
both entice and chase us.

buck up man.
that's the only advice worth heeding.


Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2013 - 08:59pm PT
One too many beers this afternoon Weege? ;) Thanks for the... direction. You can be sure we'll buck up and do the interweb peanut gallery proud! Neither rain, nor snow, nor nekid chicks, nor jester's (either skewed sandbaggers or lousy lyricists), nor AAA skullduggery, nor cross-eyed internet eye contact, nor time's inexorable passage will keep us from our appointed climbs!

Anyone else out there been on that side of the Rainbow Wall?


Trad climber
May 13, 2013 - 12:44am PT
Weeg gave sound advice IMO...go climb it!! Most accidents occur within 15 minutes of YOUR and teach your children to not fear life but LIVE it...Good Luck

May 13, 2013 - 01:10am PT
Sorry Brian, I will piggyback the previous posts. Riding the wave of cool ascents in the Black I began asking less questions to others and more to myself. We need these types of climbs! The Swain guide has some info if I remember. One time in the Black we descended the wrong gulley (imagine that!) and had to go back and wait for the ranger station to open to ask questions. The ascent was a grade V of very high standard (modern). The ranger kindly gave us a ride to the proper gully around 9 am, said he'd be a lookin' for us. We topped out at sunset. During my progression in the Black as I continued, I wanted less and found great adventure. Go for it! You know what to do! Good Luck!


P.S. Great job on the original route!!! And I have kids too ;-).

Trad climber
New River, AZ
May 13, 2013 - 01:33am PT
More and more jesters on the topo... maybe to be renamed Supermomo -Aye !!
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