Rock N Ice Weekend Whipper

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 44 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 7, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
To be fair, I know not the backstory of this uncomfortable video, but damn it to heck if it doesn't smack of inexperience... 5.10 in a gym and 5.10 outside are different!



Charles
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
You could tell that was going to be a disaster in the first five seconds.
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
I once heard a former coach (Summit Party Nor Cal) tell his kids that if they get pumped they should grab a draw and rest or clip into it. He told them this in ISO at a regional championship... I definitely see why gyms get a bad rep and do my best not to have that behavior in mine...

Charles
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:27pm PT
Nothing wrong with grabbing a draw to facilitate a clip if you are jazzed and feel that a fall is not safe. I think one of the key factors here was not knowing how to clip under stress.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:31pm PT
No shame in grabbing a draw now and then, but the belay gloves, that is embarrassing.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:35pm PT
It's never good when you end up with both hands on the draw and a skinny one at that.
Silver

Gym climber
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:38pm PT
As soon as you see that elbow flared out and slightly bent you know he's going to take a flyer.

Straight arm that and or if he was a little bit more experienced he might have thought about down climbing back to his last piece and not taken the fall with all the extra rope to clip in his hand.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:40pm PT
What's wrong with flying now and again? We all learned.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
he flew head first... ZERO points style!
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
I've got no issues with grabbing gear if it saves me from a big fall, or even a little one.

But it was painful to watch a hand on the draw and another hand futzing with the rope by the gate and still no clip, and then take the big whipper.
Rock!...oopsie.

Trad climber
the pitch above you
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:52pm PT
Wheeeeee!!!

Extra points for:
1) belayer fully decked out for a goat rodeo
2) GoPro
3) posting the vid
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
Goat Rodeo!

BWAHAHA!!!

What's up with queer-ass belay gloves anyway?

This ain't aid climbing ladies.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:58pm PT
Watch climbing from helmet mounted GoPro cam makes me dizzy and sick!
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
No shame in grabbing a draw now and then, but the belay gloves, that is embarrassing.
You knew something terrible was going to happen as soon as you saw those.

I've definitely grabbed my fair share of draws in my time, but even when I've been totally blown I've always been able to hang onto it and clip the rope, especially when it's only vert, which is what it looks like here.
Rankin

Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
Dec 7, 2012 - 06:31pm PT
I'm astonished that he couldn't get the rope clipped. Dude, clip the f*#king rope! What the hell was he doing up there? I love how you can see the bite in his hand while he's falling.
WBraun

climber
Dec 7, 2012 - 06:35pm PT
That's a stupid way to climb ...... :-)
Rock!...oopsie.

Trad climber
the pitch above you
Dec 7, 2012 - 06:45pm PT
Credit: crotch

This is a perfect place to resurrect this masterpiece. I think they all train together.
WBraun

climber
Dec 7, 2012 - 06:46pm PT
That's the text book standard of how it's done ...... ^^^^^
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
Actually, I think the guy's biggest f-up was showing the bad judgment to wear a green bracelet.
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Dec 7, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
that picture never gets old, glad they have a couple of haul bags with them.
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