J-Tree trip planning questions..


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Trad climber
Danbury, CT
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 13, 2012 - 07:05pm PT

Headed out to J-Tree after Thanksgiving. A few quick questions for those familiar w/ the area. I will be out there for 8 days or so.

Ropes... should I bring a 2nd? Will a single 70 be sufficient descending most things and will the Miramontes guidebook let me know when it isn't? Could bring doubles if that's a better option.

Have a campsite in Indian Cove from Sunday to the following Saturday....but am looking for something Fri/Sat when I arrive. Hotel is ok, camping is ok. Any recommendations for local spots? I'd like to camp in HVCG if something opened up while we were there, but at least I have something for most of the trip in case it doesn't.

Lastly... probably take 1 or 2 restdays to do some hiking. Is the Boy Scout trail one you'd recommend? Will probably do it out and back, or a major piece of it at least. Any other hikes (of any duration) there you would recommend? We will have a car (not 4wd).

Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Nov 13, 2012 - 07:09pm PT
Stay at the Pity and bring your Pan Flute. HVCG will probably be a zoo.

One rope is good.... for 97% of stuff. Guide book will probably tell you all you need to know. Check out Mountain Project too. Pop in some stuff you are thinking about doing to get a feel for the gear needed.

I don't know anything about hiking.

Social climber
Nov 13, 2012 - 07:12pm PT


I agree with Russ...

"Is the Boy Scout trail one you'd recommend?"...


and Ryan Mtn...


Trad climber
Nov 13, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
if you have any extendo ropes you could bring, like a couple 30' chunks of old 11mm, if your going to t.r. at all. might even be worth bringing an old rope (also) . very coarse rock , which can work your lead line

Trad climber
Nov 13, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
My favorite area for hiking is the Queen Mountain area. Not specifically to summit Queen Mountain, but just get out and wander around. It's more lush that more traveled parts of the park, and also the rock has a reddish cast. AND lots of cactus!
ron gomez

Trad climber
Nov 13, 2012 - 08:05pm PT
I hear there's this couple that rent houses out there. Far better bargain than the hotels if you ask me. The guy goes by Fish and the beauty goes by Sooze. Don't know the name of the company they have, but I'm sure if you ask around the name of the agency will pop up.

Social climber
Nov 13, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
I think the only time I've needed 2 ropes is to rap off Walk on the Wild Side - and there is a down climb (for non-pussies).

A good option I like for a floater night is to pack your tent and bag into your daypack and hike off into the Boy Scout trail - no permit required, just fill out a peice of paper and hike 1 trail mile (I think? maybe 2?) until you find a spot to your lonesome.

No light pollution, no asshats playing bongos and a didjeridoo till 4am in ironic clothing/party city costumes, and if you bring a rack of draws you can start off on the Siberia area (well bolted sport routes 5.8 to 10b ish).

If it is cold in Indian Cove try the Corral wall - was there recently, everything is between like 5.8 and 5.10b and its all reasonably well protected.

If it is warm, Gilligans Island (and nearby) has great quality rock and routes in the sun (past the early morning) and can be wind protected-ish.

Hope you have a blast, that desert is absolutely magical.

Social climber
Nov 13, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
I hear there's this couple that rent houses out there.

Domestic partnership.

Remember prop 8.

Jim Henson's Basement
Nov 13, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
I 60m will do you for 95% of the climbs. 70m and you are good for 99% A lot of things have walk offs.

You can peruse HVC early morning and see if anyone is leaving. There's hotels close to the entrance if you are willing to pop for a night. The Pit is free but not scenic.

Hikes.. Queen mountain and the trails heading into the canyons from Split Rocks are pretty nice.

is there any descent in JTree that requires two ropes?
Walk on the Wild Side is the only one I can think of. You can actually do it off the back with a 70m + some downclimb but 2 ropes is less sketch.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Nov 13, 2012 - 08:58pm PT
Note: Just did Walk on the Wild Side the other day. One rope, easy raps using stations just left of the route line. There are bolt anchors all over that thing these days. And I was not using the 84 meter cord... just a regular 70 and none of them were rope stretchers.


addendum: Just got a tweet that a single 60 will work too.
ana dablam

mother earth
Nov 13, 2012 - 09:21pm PT

My wife saw a mountain lion in Indian cove today. Up in Indian palisade corridor near duches.

Right in the cg


Jim Henson's Basement
Nov 13, 2012 - 09:24pm PT
Russ.. you don't need that 84 meter rope of yours, do you? ;)

I stand corrected. We headed up that thing with zero beta about the front-side anchors. Vogel is silent on the matter. They *looked* farther than a single rope rap apart and I couldn't really spot the alternate anchors, so we did the backside rap with a 70m and a little down-climbing.

Good to know one will do it for future reference.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Nov 13, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
I didn't know for sure until I checked the Proj and then went out there with only one cord. Noting funny too, the anchors are obvious and just to the left of the actual route. Makes it way nicer than crawling down the backside.
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