20 in a day at Pinns... what would be on your list?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 6, 2012 - 01:34am PT
My partner and I are planning on climbing 20 or more routes graded 5.9 or harder at East Pinnacles on Sunday. What would be on your list?

Might start on this route, thank you Jerry Dodrill for the photo:

Val
Val
Credit: Jerry Dodrill


Charles
tornado

climber
lawrence kansas
Oct 6, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
don't know if you saw this report already. It's a good one and might give you some ideas
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/The-Pinnacles-Mega-Link/t10945n.html
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Oct 6, 2012 - 01:29pm PT
mucci is currently engaged in
a high country first ascent attempt,

he should be topping out in about 5, minutes,
if the stars shine accurate.

then he's gotta huff his show homewards,
and after a few moments with his gal
and a beer or two transition,

the guy can align you with the pinnacles.
i've two doubts in this and that other world,
but this is not one of them.
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Oct 6, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
After Mittens and I did the linkup mentioned above we decided that we would have liked to add a few more goodies to the list maybe: Heat Seeking Moisture Missle, Rock and a Hard Place, Melvin. There are so many good routes. But its all about how many stars you can get, 44 that day out of the Brad Young guide.

I would love to hear what you guys end up doing.
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
Adam, we did Melvin once. Not psyched on that route at all, I like Heat Seaking, but my partner does not.

Here's the plan thus far:
Cosmos, Lithium, Verdict, Broken Arrow, Wet Kiss, Big Pucker, Rock and a Hard Place

Lower North Face, Rocket in My Pocket, Future Shock, Foreplay, POD, Hawaiian Noises, Terranean Tango

Auto Cream, Coyote Ugly, Ali Baba....

Maybe add some stuff from the Upper Crust...

Charles
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Oct 6, 2012 - 11:34pm PT
Sounds like a good list. Look for Mittens, he should be out there tomorrow. Future Shock will be a proud addition to the list. We made sure to mix it up as much as possible: do routes we never climbed, choss routes, etc. Have fun!
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 07:31am PT
It's 430 am, time to go climbing!

Charles
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 10:02pm PT
Alright, so our egos may have been bigger than our resolve today, but I had kids at home that wanted me to come home early, so... in seven hours we climbed 12 routes:

Stupendous Man
 very classic, I always enjoy this route.
Lithium
 might be the last time I do this route, getting a little fragile for mediocre climbing...
Verdict
 needs a rain storm to wash off a half dozen months of gym rat grease...
Wet Kiss
 very classic, I always enjoy doing this route.
Big Pucker
 haven't done it for a while, makes for fun climbing, I enjoyed it!
Rock and a Hard Place
 first couple feet were a little looser than I remembered, but I love the longevity and consistency
Rocket In My Pocket
 short and sweet, kind of a cheater route, goes down easy...
Richnack's Revenge (1st time!)
 wish the overhanging section on big blocks went further, but the runnout 5.5 is very fun
Hard Variation (1st time!)
 not too bad, cool way to do the original 5.8...
Foreplay
 I had just barely enough juice to top out on this...
Terranean Tango
 my partners first lead at the Pinns, always do this route.
Hawaiian Noises
 The highball of the Monolith! decent exposure for a short route...

All 5.10 to 5.11 with the exception of Wet Kiss, but that is a damn fine route. Also saw Mittens out there and had a fine chat.

Happy Sunday,

Charles

(hopefully will get some pics from my partners mom this week)...
Dirka

Trad climber
SF
Oct 7, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
Machete ridge!

Portent!

Stupendous man.

3rd sister... Oh the Pinns. Love it to death... or death loves it.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Oct 7, 2012 - 10:41pm PT
sounds like a great day!
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Oct 7, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
Sounds like two of the essentials of a great day of climbing - enthusiasm and fun. Nicely done.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Oct 7, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
I never saw the allure of the Pinns. But then, I have differencing views on many things.

Climb on, bitches!!!!
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Oct 7, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
^ what's not to love?
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Oct 7, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
Sounds like a good day in my book! I'm glad you enjoyed the routes that were new for you. Bear Gulch is quite a special place, there is lots of quality in a small area. Mittens and I have been spying a big westside day... hopefully soon.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 7, 2012 - 11:27pm PT
Foreplay 5.11b
Foreplay 5.11b
Credit: Mittens
Verdict 5.11b
Verdict 5.11b
Credit: Mittens
One 'mitten' for each hand.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Oct 7, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
nice job on those.
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 11:35pm PT
Adam,
There are a whole bunch of long easy routes in the middle of machete that I would like to do, some "rest day" routes, however, after doing Cuidado last fall I would like to put together a day doing Cuidado, Shake and Bake, and Lava Falls... maybe some others as well, some kind of big multi-pitch day, maybe include something on the citadel... today reminded me that I am not a particularly fast climber...

And Blue,
It is thanks to you and many others that guys like me can climb at Pinns on a gorgeous day like today and have the place almost to ourselves... but shhh, Pinns sucks, and it's dangerous, stick to TR's at CRSP... ahahahahahaha!

Charles
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Oct 7, 2012 - 11:40pm PT
no kidding! Was there yesterday and saw only a couple other groups of climbers. Perfect weather right now!
Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews