Rock Shoe Repair - Shoe Goo or Barge Cement?


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Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic

Sport climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 8, 2012 - 07:28am PT
I have two uses:
1. rock climbing shoes - (a) some early signs of de-lamination of toe sole from the rand; (b) side rand starting to have wear/scraped off
2. trekking shoes (Teva with 'Spider Rubber')- front part of sole separated halfway. would like to maintain its waterproof properties, so having it sewn is not an option

which would provide better adhesiveness? Both rubbers are relatively soft & sticky since these are special grip shoes. No shoe repair shop in my country has materials & skills to fix rock climbing shoes. And normal contact cement won't hold the fix for the shoes' use.

*I think 5.10 had a repair kit before using Barge Cement (yellow tube, instead of the blue one), but the reviews say that it didn't quite work.

any other glue brands / tips? thanks!
David Plotnikoff

Mountain climber
Emerald Hills, CA
Aug 8, 2012 - 03:52pm PT
Aquaseal. Get it at a dive shop. Primary use is for repairing wetsuits. Works on all rubber. Lasts much longer than Shoe Goo.

Social climber
So Cal
Aug 8, 2012 - 04:41pm PT
Seamgrip and Aquaseal are very slightly different formulations by the same company. For the purposes of shoe repair, identical. It works best for filling gaps etc, but it is slicker than owl snot when dry and you don't want it on the outside contact area of the shoe

The trick with Barges is to thin it down about 25% and give it 15-30 min dry time before beating the two halves together with a hammer.
Tony Bird

Northridge, CA
Aug 9, 2012 - 09:32am PT
the 5.10 repair kit was available last year. may still be. nomad ventures in joshua tree stocked it, but it was frequently on back order.

there were two kits--the resoling kit and the repair kit, both making use of barge cement.

i finally got a successful resole going by making wood inserts for my shoes so's i could clamp things under pressure. the olden days technique of parking your car on them overnight wasn't that successful. you have to clamp at many angles, but it works once you get the knack of it.

the repair kit was pretty good for when you first wear through an edge in a climbing shoe. it involves pulverized shoe rubber and barge cement.

i also use shoe goo, but it's practically worthless for climbing shoes and hiking boots--seems to peel right off with any kind of wear on the soles. best for stopping holes in the uppers.

Sport climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
looks like barge cement is the way to go to stick parts together. while Shoe goo serves more as a filler.

Trad climber
Aug 10, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
Glueing directions from my 5.10 repair kit:

Grind surfaces with belt sander or wire wheel.

Clean with 1 1 1 trichloroethane

Fill in gouges and rounded edges with Aquaseal or any polyurethane glue.

Apply thinnest layer possible of Barge Cement (or other contact cement) and let dry completely (up to 2 hours).

Heat both glued surfaces over a red hot heating coil 15 - 30 seconds. Do not ignite glue! Get both surfaces really hot.

Press together starting at on one end, working to the other. Press together vigorously, pliers, hammering, clamping. Let dry 24 hrs.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Mar 26, 2019 - 12:27pm PT
Looking to squeeze some more life out of some old trail shoes where the sole is separating, any updated information or is the above beta good? Is there a better glue than Barge?

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 26, 2019 - 12:46pm PT
looks like barge cement is the way to go to stick parts together. while Shoe goo serves more as a filler.


For resole, spread the barge cement out very thin with a putty knife, and let it dry. Then heat up the rubber to be joined (both parts) with one of those hot air guns made for melting shrink wrap tubing in electronics assembly, or a paint peeler on low. The join the parts starting at one end - the back is better. Press and hammer. let dry, trim edges the next day with a razor knife (not too close) and a grinding wheel for your precise trim (go slow, do not heat up the glue.)

I never let my shoes get down to rands, so I can't give advice there except to say it requires more skill for a first class job.
Eric Beck

Sport climber
Bishop, California
Mar 26, 2019 - 12:54pm PT
Do not use shoo goo on climbing shoes. I made this mistake once. After hardening it is like plastic ski boots.

Trad climber
Mar 26, 2019 - 01:44pm PT
Yes as another data point Barge Cement. We use it in white water kayaking too!


Trad climber
Mar 26, 2019 - 02:59pm PT
I have had very good results using Super Glue Gel to handle delam issues with my shoes. I used it last year just before climbing the East Butt of Whitney on a pair of Five Tennies. Held up great on the hike and climb and they are still going strong, at least the part I used the super glue on.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Mar 26, 2019 - 06:24pm PT
Thanks, I am going with the Barge and heat strategy

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Mar 26, 2019 - 08:59pm PT
If you can get the old Barge cement in the yellow tube with red lettering that is best. The newer Barge in the blue tube with black lettering does not contain toluene so you will have to psych up for that necky lead all on your own!

Both work well, but you really should clamp the two halves together overnight for best results.

Also, I use isopropyl alcohol (70% or 90%) to clean the rubber surfaces before I put on the glue.

Social climber
Mar 26, 2019 - 10:44pm PT
hey there, say, ksolem... wow, thanks for sharing all that...

not for climbing shoes:

but, for winter boots...

shoo goo... kept my feet dry, after my winter boots cracked...
(thanks to someone here that told me) ...

those boots, i've had for nearly 20 years now... :)

filled in the areas that started to wear down, crack a bit, and then
leak... still fine now...

but, good to know this other info, from you all, too...
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Mar 27, 2019 - 03:24am PT
Found this on Ebay, seems complicated? Not sure what material is on my shoes

Seems like there are a variety of Barge glues, an all purpose and a rubber solution. Which one to use on climbing shoes?

Anyone try additives or primers?

I found the yellow label "good stuff"!92054!US!-1!92054!US!-1

Barge Infinity System
The Infinity System is a versatile product designed to bond a wide variety of materials including: Vinyl, PVC, polyurethane, EVA, Gumlite, TPR, SBR, nitrile, neoprene, natural rubber, leather, cotton, synthetic, fabrics, and woven fabrics. Infinity Cement, Rubber Solution and Rubber Additive are toluene and VOC free

Universal All-Purpose Cement. Use directly on Vinyl, PVC, Polyurethane, Leather, Cotton, Synthetic fabrics, Woven fabrics.
• Toluene-Free / No VOC’s
• Clear adhesive
DRY TIME: 2-5 Min.
OPEN TIME: 5-10 Min.
Available in Quarts and Gallons.

For use on EVA, Gumlite ® and Newflex ®.
• Clear product
DRY TIME: 30 Min.
OPEN TIME: No Time Limits
Available in Quarts.

Primer for SBR, Nitrile, Neoprene and Natural Rubber; mix with Rubber Additive. Can be used as a thinner for Barge Infinity Cement. Can be used as a cleaner.
• Toluene-Free / No VOC’s
DRY TIME: 1 Min.
OPEN TIME: No Time Limits
Available in Quarts.

To be used in combination with Barge Rubber Solution.
• Toluene-Free Available in Pints.
Available in Pints.

1. Roughen soles.
2. Mix 1/2 teaspoon of Barge Infinity Additive with 2 ounces of Barge Rubber Solution.
3. Stir until granules have dissolved(about 1 minute).
4. Apply to above mentioned materials.
5. Let dry(1 minute).
6. Apply Barge Infinity Cement.

1. Roughen soles.
2. Apply Barge Infinity Primer.
3. Let dry(2-5 minutes).
4. Apply Barge Infinity Cement.

1. Roughen soles.
2. Apply Barge Infinity Cement.

We have over 100 years of Shoe repairing and custom leather workmanship experience.

The formula inside the barge infinity glue causes pressure to build while being shipped it tends to spill a little less then 1oz from the cap area.

For more detailed information about this product go to >>>
-for customers asking for smaller portions, the 2oz, 4oz and the 8oz bottles are filled from the original gallons.

Trad climber
Mar 27, 2019 - 04:08am PT
All purpose primer. The yellow. Seems a bit much. Just get a little tube if possible, might have to make a trip to REI.. Same color, yellow. Maybe the little can but it will likely harden and not be usable after a short period of time (the lid).


Ice climber
hartford, ct
Mar 27, 2019 - 06:54am PT
FWIW, I've had really good luck with Seam Grip (urethane). Clean/rough with acetone and sandpaper... apply seam grip... clamp very well...

Takes 24+ hours to dry though but I've never had it fail after that.

Trad climber
northern CA
Mar 27, 2019 - 09:53am PT
Another option might be E6000. I learned about it through this thread and had good results using it for some minor climbing shoe patchwork.

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
Mar 27, 2019 - 09:54am PT
Staples or Scotch Tape. Either will get you lots of attention.

Or... I like barge cement. Doesn't change the feel of the shoe but is not a quick fix if done correctly. See instructions posted above. I used a vice after heating. I actually had to sand down a bit of squeezed out cement after it was dry.
Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic
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