Broken bolt on the Warlock (Needles)

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romand

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 4, 2012 - 12:57pm PT
Yesterday while rapping down the east face of the Warlock, my partner stopped to remove a piece of old, frayed rope that was hanging from a 2 bolt anchor about 50 feet below the summit (red dot on topo below)

East face of the Warlock
East face of the Warlock
Credit: romand

As he was untying the wad of tat from the anchor, one of the bolts popped off in his hand!

yikes!
yikes!
Credit: romand
...
...
Credit: romand

It was unclear what these anchors were for, aside from a short crack with an old piton in it just below, and we removed the tattered fixed line and the pulled bolt.

Also got a good view of the fire burning just to the north of us:
fire
fire
Credit: romand

Be safe!
locker

Gym climber
DUH!!!...
Jun 4, 2012 - 02:09pm PT
We clip those things and HOPE...

Never can tell what's going on under the hangers...

Scary sh!t!!!...




We did some replacement the other day (Thanks!!! goes out to the ASCA) and some of those things we could just about pull out with our fingers...

Others broke so easy we could tell that most likely they would not have held a fall...(rusted button heads)

JUNK!!!...




EDITED:

The one in your photo is ODDLY broken...

Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jun 4, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
Looks like a 3/8 buttonhead that was driven into a tight hole with a heavy hammer. That weakens the bolt right where the split in the shaft ends, and they can break off like that. I've seen it happen before.

I did a route at Church Dome once, and on the lower off I was cleaning my draws - one of the bolts did exactly that. I know who placed that bolt, and I have seen him wailing on those bolts with a big masons hammer. Not good...

The best way to rap off the Warlock is to do two raps down the Howling, kind of the North / North-East corner. Two ropes are ideal, but a 70 will just exactly reach from the top to the anchor in the slot at the start of the last pitch, and then straight down to the deck.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 4, 2012 - 02:46pm PT
As I recall, that anchor would be at the end of a bolt ladder that goes to nowhere. So hopefully it was not getting much use.
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