Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic |
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - May 8, 2012 - 01:04am PT
|
"DeeBees Rib (IV F7) ascends the right skyline arete for over 1,000 feet" -A guidebook
I got the IV part, but what's an "F7"???
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
5.7 . "F = Free" "A = Aid"
It's from an old rating system (NCCS = National Climbing Classification System) that was proposed to replace the YDS 5.x and 6.x system.
It compressed the lower grades.
It was used in the AAJ, in some old AAC guidebooks, and in the old Wolfe Joshua Tree guidebook.
Only the Ax part of the system is normally still used.
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2012 - 01:08am PT
|
Awesome, thanks! I was looking over foreign rating conversion charts and now I know why I couldn't find it.
|
|
Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
|
|
I like the British system better.
It sounds better to have spent the day on the "hard severe" climbs, than to accurately describe the day's climbing.
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2012 - 01:28am PT
|
Kind of wish that would have caught on
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
My old teton book has the F system in it.. Also lots of nice sketches but sketchy descriptions...
|
|
F10
Trad climber
Bishop
|
|
Good post Cosmic
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
|
|
The first Oregon guidebook I had (Nick Dodge I believe?) used the F ratings.
It was actually a little odd getting used to YDS as a youngster!
|
|
BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
|
|
The only place that I can remember still using the F system past 1980 was the Tetons.
And everyone knew that F7 meant 5.7
It was some sort of disorder up in the Tetons, which is a fun place to climb, BTW.
|
|
Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
|
|
Devil's Lake used it's own interpretation of the "F"-system until probably sometime into the '90s, if not later.
|
|
AP
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
Now its about 5.8+
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
Now its about 5.8+
Too funny, and sometimes true besides. I, too, loved the old British system that gave us such odd ratings as mild very severe. Then again, my beloved YDS has its own quirks.
John
|
|
| Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!