Who did the third ascent of the nose?


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john hansen

Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 29, 2012 - 02:06am PT
It is probably pretty well documented but who did the third ascent of the Nose
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 29, 2012 - 02:11am PT
Kor, Roper and Denny.

FA: (multiple stages) Warren Harding, et al, July 1957 - November 1958
2A: Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, Joe Fitschen, Chuck Pratt, (7 days) 9/1960
3A: Layton Kor, Steve Roper, Glen Denny, (3.5 days) 5/1963
4A: Gary Colliver, Richard McCracken, John Evans, 1965
5A: Dave Dornan, Dick Williams, Ants Leemets, 1966
6A: Galen Rowell, Tom Fender, 1966
7A: Jacques Dupont, Andre Gaunt, (6 days) 1966
8A: Ken Boche, Don Lauria, (7 days, rainy) 1967
9A: Jim Madsen, Kim Schmitz, (3 days) 1967
10A: Dennis Hennek, Yvon Chouinard, (3 days) 1967
11A: Pat Ament, Tom Ruwitch, 1967
12A: Don McPherson, Ron Burgner, 1967
13A: Jim Logan, Wayne Goss, 1968
14A: Jose Luis Fonrouge, Rick Sylvester, 1968
15A: Jim Bridwell, Bill Stanton, 1968
16A: Mick Burke, Rob Wood, 1968
17A: Jim Madsen, Mike Covington, 1968

from Ken Boche's post in a thread on this forum.

[Edit:] It was fast, because this is probably somewhat well-known, so I knew it would be a race to post first! (and clean up later!) I barely got it in before Josh.

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Feb 29, 2012 - 02:12am PT
Steve Roper

Edit: and a couple of other guys:)
john hansen

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2012 - 02:21am PT
Wow ,, that was quick..

Thanks Clint..
Alan Rubin

Feb 29, 2012 - 11:47am PT
After this ascent--which received brief newspaper coverage in the Bay Area press, Roper received an amazing anonymous letter that is well worth scanning in here by someone capable of doing so. It was published (I think) in the Games Climber's Play anthology, the Vulgarian Digest, and probably elsewhere.

Oakland, CA
Feb 29, 2012 - 12:09pm PT
Roper also pulled one of Robbins' bolts on that ascent, I think it was on the Boot Flake pitch? Robbins put one in where Batso hadn't, worried that the whole flake would ply off the wall. If I'm remembering this right.

Only time Roper took an ethical high ground on Royal, I think.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 29, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
Batso too.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 29, 2012 - 12:13pm PT
Note the 3.5 days for the third ascent.
I love that.
How many modern teams could aid the whole route with pitons and place all of their anchors in 3.5 days?
scuffy b

heading slowly NNW
Feb 29, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
That amazing letter to Roper has been posted to this Forum, but I don't
know an easy way to find it.
Someone like Guido or BBA may have the technology.

I found it in a post of Guido's, but I'm having trouble reading its ID.

This is a scan of a post of Guido's, of a letter sent by Roper to Guido,
containing the letter sent to Roper after the 3rd ascent of the Nose.

I believe the source is Vulgarian Digest, ed. Joe Kelsey
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 29, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
The letter to Roper is in a thread by guido (Joe), and linked in the thread in my post above:

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Feb 29, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
First solo ascent of the Nose? Who dun it?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 1, 2012 - 05:26am PT
Tom Bauman did the first solo ascent of the Nose, in 1969.
Read about him on this thread:

Social climber
Mar 1, 2012 - 08:14am PT
That letter cracks me up!

The 4th image in the "Yosemite in the 60's" book by Glen shows my Mom and Dad sitting at the picnic table with Roper, Beverly and Mark Powell, Chris Fredericks and Layton Kor racking up for the third ascent. An interesting side note is that the full sized picture Glen sent me shows me as a 1-year-old toddling around to the left of the table, but I got cut out due to sizing for the book.
Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic
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