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| Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
skitch
Trad climber
pdx
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 20, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
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I've been looking for a new approach shoe, I have the Scarpa Zen which I think is a great, long lasting shoe but is too heavy to climb with for a walk off.
I've always been interested in the Five Ten Guide, but between the new ones being made of canvas, and the reputation for durability I've so far steered clear. This new Evolv isn't pretty, but looks like a slightly beefed up version of the Guide, for less money.
http://www.evolvesports.com/bolt-blue.htm#
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 20, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
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Why does one need a special shoe, just for approaching bolts? Are they needed on say Cerro Torre?
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Feb 20, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
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I had a pair of low top Evolv approach shoes. Of course they quit making them, because they are the best approach shoe I've ever owned. They were heavy, but the soles look very similar to the Bolt. They climbed very, very well, and were extremely durable. I have Guide Tennies, which are pretty good, but they don't climb nearly as well as the old Evolvs. I would drop in on the Bolt if it were me.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Feb 20, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
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I have a pair of the old Evolv STRYKER shoes in what could be termed butt-ugly orange. Except for the color they look very similar to the bolts in the pic. They outperformed my new guide tennies in about all aspects of climbing. Comfort on approach, climbing ability, and as they are on their 2nd resole, longevity. I had bought 2 pair on closeout for $19.95 each, but my son saw my 2nd pair just sitting there and scored them for himself. He has said they are the best shoe he's ever had. I bought him and myself the Guide tennies when they went on closeout sale.
Unfortunately, they don't make them anymore. Their sole (heh heh) issue is that they weigh more than a Guide tennie.
Here's what they look like on lead in 2009.
Jeff Thomas photo
This is what I said about a year back.
They were frikan awesome in so many ways. Great wear, very comfortable. Sadly, they don't make them any more. I got big mileage on mine, lots of long approaches, routes (like this) working on walls, aiding, kicking steps, scraping the hell out of them. Finally wore the toes out, that aid climbing will do that. I preferred them for climbing on knobby stuff because they protected my feet so well when the knobs broke off. The are back at Yosemite bum getting resoled for the first go round right now.
Cavet: I have the Garmen sticky cats, LaSportiva Circ's, B5's couple of others. These ugly assed Evolvs were the best, hands down. They were a smidge too big for my feet but I could get up 5.10 with them on, the next closest shoe was maybe 4 grades below that.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Feb 20, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
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the bolt is pretty sweet. i got a pair a few weeks and ago and the fit is way better than past models.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 20, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
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So if you could use them to place a bolt, would that make them a Bolt from the Shoe?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Feb 20, 2012 - 09:40pm PT
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I climbed a slew of free routes at Index lower town wall in approach shoes when I forgot my rock shoes one day. It was pretty interesting climbing up to 10a with them. I thought Godzilla was interesting in them! Since they are sticky rubber they work just ok. Approach shoes rock, with the rigidity you can stand in aiders comfortably or kick steps in the snow, but much lighter then mountain boots. I imagine someone WILL climb Cerro Torre in them one day. They are great for when you are doing lots of scrambling, boulder hopping, etc. I have models by FiveTen and La Sportiva, and like em both.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Feb 20, 2012 - 10:36pm PT
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Steve, which ones were you using at Index that day?
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Feb 20, 2012 - 11:38pm PT
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I'm happy with mine
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couchmaster
climber
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Anyone else? Re: Bolts. My Cruzers are long gone and I'm through (almost) the 5.tennie replacements. Boulder hopping tears the 5.10ies up quickly.
How do these do on aid and the aid/free transition too?
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