Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 20 of total 88 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Feb 8, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
Sorry to hear this. I didn't know him, but several friends did. My condolences to them, and to his family.


Social climber
Joshua Tree
Feb 8, 2012 - 01:54pm PT
Only met him once when I lived up there, a character in the truest sense. Raise a glass for Doug, you know he is looking down on this human comedy and laughing robustly. Fair winds Doug.

Feb 8, 2012 - 01:57pm PT
Very sorry to hear this. Condolences to his family & friends.

For all his quirkiness, Doug held a special, valued place here at ST...he will be missed.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 8, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
That guy stirred up the best sh#t about the politics of Denali. I'm sorry to see him go.

Do have a good one Doug!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 8, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
Rest in Peace Doug...

My condolences to his family and friends...We'll be missing him around here too.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
Feb 8, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
They don't make 'em like that anymore...Laughing Robustly...

A long way from where I started
Feb 8, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
The Alaskan Alpine Club has lost its driving force.


Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 8, 2012 - 04:14pm PT
Well sh#t. I always wondered where he went off to. He was certainly one deserving of a proper climber's wake. I raise a glass robustly!

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Feb 8, 2012 - 04:18pm PT
man, that guy could rant with the best of em. Uncompromising rants. I tip my hat.


The Granite State.
Feb 8, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
Feb 26, 2009 - 10:47am PT
There I was, mind you, and it was desperate indeed, albeit as usual.

It was in the dead of winter in the dark of night, lost amid crevasses on a glacier in the heart of the Alaska Range. The mountains towered above and the storm raged.

A lurking suspicion blew by, against the wind.

Exposed flesh freezes in seconds, you know.

To this very day I am not sure if we survived.

What? You already heard the account of that first assent?

That's the problem with the old stories. Just as well walk away from the computer and go live a new story. A walk through the alley is better than reading the truly unique story of the first assent of Mt. Deception in the Alaska Range, among the others.

No, not that Mt. Deception. There are more than one, of course.

Or something like that.



Trad climber
Feb 8, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
Sorry to hear this. You're walking for free wherever you want to now, Dougie. R.I.P.

Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
Feb 8, 2012 - 04:48pm PT
He climbed on through to the other side.

Now he is looking down on us and laughing robustly.

Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
Feb 8, 2012 - 04:50pm PT
The standard introduction.......

Yooooo, for good grief sakes...

There we were, mind you, and it was desperate indeed, albeit as usual. It was in the dark of night, in the dead of winter, in the heart of the Alaska Range, lost somewhere on the glacier amid gaping crevasses, the mountains towered above, and the storm raged. Exposed flesh freezes in seconds, you know.

And if you are reading this, you aint no mountain climber. The only real mountain climber is climbing right now, by definition. Anyone else may have been a climber, and may want to be a climber, but is not a climber right now because he is not climbing right now. Well, do you accurately use words, and thus mean what you say? Meaning what you say is a valuable skill in the mountains, and all other places.

Now that we do not have to deal with the inflated ego of those sorts who think they are mountain climbers, we can chit-chat about the Alaskan Alpine Club, Alaska mountain climbing, and laugh ourselves to tears over the antics of these humans.

You can learn that lesson from the mountains. The mountains always deal with what is, rather than what people say. Do the same and you will do well, if you know what questions to ask to distinguish between what is said and what is.

Interested in climbing in Alaska?

Buy or download a topographical map of where you want to climb, go there, climb, and have entirely too much fun.

Need any of the standard mountaineering information that people think they need?

Check out all the standard web sites, books, clubs, stores and such places for standard climbing stuff.

Want some non-standard stuff about mountain climbing?

Imagine that. You have stumbled onto the right site. That is what this club and Alaska are about.

But there are only words and visual illusions at this web site, so the wiser person will hit the off-switch, grab the topo map, and head out the door.

The hardest part of every climb, is getting out of town.

Nothing on this web site or any other web site can assist you in actual climbing, the act of putting one foot in front of and above the other, and hanging on, until you get to the summit. But this web site might give your mind what no climbing organization leaders and government drones want you to have, some knowledge also offered by the mountains, that is, how to be free.

Herein is just knowledge, if you sufficiently question what you read, with real questions, and answer your questions.

The extent of the fun you will have in the mountains, where you may otherwise be miserable, working hard and in danger, is predicated on the extent of the questions you prior ask of your actions, and your answers. Otherwise stated: The knowledge your mind seeks and finds.

And from a mountain climbing club, did you want the rhetorical garbage that ego-craving, control-mentality club officers tell you, usually telling you that you have to do what the government dolts tell you to do, and ask no serious questions, or did you want the knowledge of concepts you learned from your own mind's questions and answers which need no organization leaders or their petty corrupting power? Notice the questions that organization and government leaders flee instead of answer. Ask those questions until you recognize the answers that prevail against all questions, to discover that organization and government leaders serve only themselves, at your cost. You do not need them.

If you are a mountain climber, you need only the mountains and your freedom.

You may do as you consider logical, as wisely done in the mountains, and you will define yourself.

Climb on...

Doug Buchanan
The club web page slave.

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Feb 8, 2012 - 04:54pm PT

My condolences to Doug's family & friends.

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Feb 8, 2012 - 05:02pm PT
Here's a few threads Doug contributed to:


Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
Feb 8, 2012 - 05:07pm PT
I'm so sorry to learn of this. Hope he is laughing robustly indeed.

Tom Stryker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 8, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
Many thoughts going out to his family and friends. A well lived life.


Feb 8, 2012 - 06:13pm PT
Sorry to hear of Dougs passing, hope that where he is now is better than where he was. What a unique and interesting fella.

Bless the man.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Feb 8, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
Next time I quaff a beer I will raise a glass to the man and laugh robustly.


Boulder climber
Feb 8, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
Doug left peacefully and joyfully last night. As he wished, he was at home, in our bed, and I was with him, holding his hand to the last, when he opened his eyes, looked into mine, and let out one last breath.

He had already negotiated arrangement with the angels for his spirit's next adventure. I am not kidding. We got to listen to his side of the conversation. He called the welcoming committee "the questioners" and they seemed to get along very well. He spent a good part of the day holding forth and asking questions of them.

To Doug, whose spirit now runs free among the stars.

A Valediction: Forbidding Mourning
As virtuous men pass mildly away,
And whisper to their souls to go,
Whilst some of their sad friends do say
The breath goes now, and some say, No:

So let us melt, and make no noise,
No tear-floods, nor sigh-tempests move;
'Twere profanation of our joys
To tell the laity our love.

Moving of th' earth brings harms and fears,
Men reckon what it did, and meant;
But trepidation of the spheres,
Though greater far, is innocent.

Dull sublunary lovers' love
(Whose soul is sense) cannot admit
Absence, because it doth remove
Those things which elemented it.

But we by a love so much refined,
That our selves know not what it is,
Inter-assured of the mind,
Care less, eyes, lips, and hands to miss.

Our two souls therefore, which are one,
Though I must go, endure not yet
A breach, but an expansion,
Like gold to airy thinness beat.

If they be two, they are two so
As stiff twin compasses are two;
Thy soul, the fixed foot, makes no show
To move, but doth, if the other do.

And though it in the center sit,
Yet when the other far doth roam,
It leans and hearkens after it,
And grows erect, as that comes home.

Such wilt thou be to me, who must,
Like th' other foot, obliquely run;
Thy firmness makes my circle just,
And makes me end where I begun.

My magnificent husband, who has plans for returning in the future, is playing among the stars.
We have planned a celebration of his life at Mushers Hall, Fairbanks, on May 19, 2012. If the location doesn't work out, we will go somewhere else in Fairbanks and hold the event. If you show up, ask around—people will know where the party is being held.

If any of you need to reach me, you can email me at:
iloATiloilojonesDOTcom and I will get back to you.

Give me a few days to begin to get my bearings, though. My heart is very empty right now.

Thanks, Benowitz and Flaharty, for getting in touch with me about this thread—I was already a member here, but have not had any time lately to check stuff.

Also check out the posts on Caring Bridge for updates:
Climb on.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 88 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

Try a free sample topo!

SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews