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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
Gravy
Gym climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 16, 2012 - 06:00pm PT
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If I placed the ATC Guide in the autoblock mode, could it work for solo climbing, top-rope and lead?
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jan 16, 2012 - 06:40pm PT
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Hmm, I can imagine a toprope scenario working if you knew there was nothing to impede the motion of the ATC up top, your line was straight up, and you pulled in your own slack on the belay side. But it would give me the heebie jeebies.
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Gravy
Gym climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
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If you have the anchor side of rope coming out of the climber side of the device, wouldnt a fall clamp down on the slack/brake side, autoblocking and stopping the fall?
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damo62
Social climber
Brisbane
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Jan 16, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
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Hey Gravy,
I have an unused 5yr old GriGri, it's yours for $50.
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adatesman
climber
philadelphia, pa
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Jan 16, 2012 - 07:32pm PT
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Jim Titt did some testing on that configuration a couple years back, and in summary: ABSOLUTELY NOT. All sorts of bad things happen, including but not limited to the rope jamming in the device under relatively small loads (needing a crowbar to unjam) and the strands passing by each other at moderate loads and taking almost all of the friction out of the system (resulting in a free running rope and likely a SPLAT!!). I don't recall if his post was here or on RC or MP, but I recently ran across a mention of it (by him) on MP. A search should turn it up easy enough.
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Jan 16, 2012 - 09:20pm PT
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Maxime Turgeon used a rig like that, but I'm sure he wasn't planning to fall on it. I think there was a pic of it in Alpinist mag or somewhere. He was doing a big human-powered tour in the alps (everything had to fit on his bike).
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jan 16, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
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Gravy, this is nuts. Absolutely not. Take it from one who actually has done a great deal of soloing. Use a Silent Partner or Solo Aid and quit screwing around. And follow the directions the devices come with.
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kiwi
Trad climber
Bozeman, MT
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Jan 16, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
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google it, with a simple chest harness and a fatish (10 mil and up) rope should work fine. tie safety backups and you shouldn't die.
googled it for you.
http://fcorpet.free.fr/Denis/Solo-En.html
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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
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